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Very Dissapointed with dyno results today...

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Old 05-13-2006, 06:14 PM
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I guess if I cant find anything else wrong with it a will have to pull the water pump, pulley, and cover just to check the dots. Shouldnt the PSI during a compression test be higher if you are running a higher compression motor? Mine is 11.4 CR...

Last edited by joshp14; 05-13-2006 at 06:20 PM.
Old 05-13-2006, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by hammertime
Isn't the point of doing it warm so that you are tesing under the conditions the engine operates at? As the engine warms up, the thermal expansion should take up excessive clearance (which is why piston slap is pronounced at cold start). Hot tests should improve his numbers.
That's what I was saying. If he does it warm, the leakdown percentage numbers would be lower, and they were.
Old 05-13-2006, 09:35 PM
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Well granted my gauge is accurate at 10:1 CR I was seeing about 210-230 PSI on cranking. I was going to ask you if you installed the cam correctly.
Old 05-13-2006, 10:44 PM
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I was sure that I installe dot to dot...I have done this a few times...but I guess **** happens. I even had another set of eyes watching me to make absolute sure they were dot to dot. This is driving me nuts!!!
Old 05-14-2006, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I was sure that I installe dot to dot...I have done this a few times...but I guess **** happens. I even had another set of eyes watching me to make absolute sure they were dot to dot. This is driving me nuts!!!
i would say after you check the 7.400" PR's and the cam itself. take the AFR 205 heads off for a light hand porting job by a proffissional and flow test them to make sure they are flowing well.

Last edited by Abdullah; 05-14-2006 at 01:48 AM.
Old 05-14-2006, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I was sure that I installe dot to dot...I have done this a few times...but I guess **** happens. I even had another set of eyes watching me to make absolute sure they were dot to dot. This is driving me nuts!!!
it could be that the cam was ground wrong.a friend of mine installed his dot to dot and was down on power, and peaked too early.after they took it apart to degree it,found it was 4* advanced more than what the cam card said.sometimes cams are mis-ground.or maybe the timing gear on the crank(assuming it was an adjustable one)was installed advanced by mistake?just a thought.
Old 05-14-2006, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Abdullah
i would say after you check the 7.400" PR's and the cam itself. take the AFR 205 heads off for a light hand porting job by a proffissional and flow test them to make sure they are flowing well.
hell no, DO NOT TOUCH the AFR heads. he had problems there before the heads anyway and it woudl be stupid to try and port a ported head, it woudl just screw the flow up
Old 05-14-2006, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 66deuce
it could be that the cam was ground wrong.a friend of mine installed his dot to dot and was down on power, and peaked too early.after they took it apart to degree it,found it was 4* advanced more than what the cam card said.sometimes cams are mis-ground.or maybe the timing gear on the crank(assuming it was an adjustable one)was installed advanced by mistake?just a thought.
I think I'm leaning toward that fact that the cam was ground wrong or the dyno was not working properly. The timing gear is not adjustable and only goes on one way.

So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
Old 05-14-2006, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I think I'm leaning toward that fact that the cam was ground wrong or the dyno was not working properly. The timing gear is not adjustable and only goes on one way.

So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?

before you put the cam again dot to dot make sure it is ground correctly i.e. take it and inspect it and make sure it matches the cam card.
Old 05-14-2006, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I think I'm leaning toward that fact that the cam was ground wrong or the dyno was not working properly. The timing gear is not adjustable and only goes on one way.

So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
i would degree the cam to make sure your valve events match the cam card,even if the gears are dot-dot.have you run at a track yet?your trap speed at the end of the 1/4 is the best dyno,IMO.
Old 05-14-2006, 12:30 PM
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Sure sounds lke the cam is not installed right or ground right at this point. It always pays to degree the cam when installing. Dot to dot may be just fine for a stocker, but whenever you are shelling out the bucks for HP gains, it is worth while to see that you are getting what you paid for.

JakeFusion - sorry, I reread your post and realized we were saying the same thing
Old 05-14-2006, 05:07 PM
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I would agree that the cam could definitely be ground wrong especially for the fact this is the second F-13 cam that has been installed....and the first DID have problems. Seriously, Id be inclined to ditch the F-13 and go with a proven winner in comp cams....
Old 05-14-2006, 06:09 PM
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the F13 is proven on many cars, the issues they had were not only issues to F13 cams but all cams ground by that company within that time frame
Old 05-14-2006, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
the F13 is proven on many cars, the issues they had were not only issues to F13 cams but all cams ground by that company within that time frame
Exactly. If you exhaust all other avenues and still cant find the power, degree the cam or pull it and get it cam doctored.
Old 05-14-2006, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Exactly. If you exhaust all other avenues and still cant find the power, degree the cam or pull it and get it cam doctored.
ok I thought you were saying its just a bad cam overall that wont make power I agree though, if nothing else is left, hell it could be the wrong cam lol
Old 06-04-2006, 06:15 PM
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Josh did you ever figure out whats up with your car? Just curious man :-D
Old 06-04-2006, 10:29 PM
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What's interesting is his dyno is almost completely identical to mine from 3k to 5500.

My peak Hp was only 356 though because of the cam differences. at 6500 rpm, he still has 300 tq and I'm down to 270 by then.
Old 06-05-2006, 04:01 PM
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No I didnt, after doing all the checks I wasnt able to find anything. Compression was good, leakdown was good, all checked. I'm guessing that it was either the dyno being off or my tune isnt up to par. I still have to get it dyno tuned sooner or later.
Old 06-05-2006, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
No I didnt, after doing all the checks I wasnt able to find anything. Compression was good, leakdown was good, all checked. I'm guessing that it was either the dyno being off or my tune isnt up to par. I still have to get it dyno tuned sooner or later.
Spend some time with it and get it tuned on the street. I gurantee you'll like the results alot better. Got several cars around here running 50more HP on the dyno getting smoked cause there A/F gets off once they get a diffrent load on the street.......Just a thought......

Josh
Old 06-10-2006, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
i went through your mods on your page, similar to mine. i woudl put in some TR6 plugs gapped at 0.045". you should be making 445-450 with an ls6 intake without a problem. might want to check on the recommended lifter preload for those lifters....what length PR's do you have? i will tell you right now you are going to want some 36# injectors for that thing too, if you are on stock you better upgrade quick cause you will run them over 100%
I thought the stock injectors are good for 450-460hp?


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