Very Dissapointed with dyno results today...
#141
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I guess if I cant find anything else wrong with it a will have to pull the water pump, pulley, and cover just to check the dots. Shouldnt the PSI during a compression test be higher if you are running a higher compression motor? Mine is 11.4 CR...
Last edited by joshp14; 05-13-2006 at 06:20 PM.
#142
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Originally Posted by hammertime
Isn't the point of doing it warm so that you are tesing under the conditions the engine operates at? As the engine warms up, the thermal expansion should take up excessive clearance (which is why piston slap is pronounced at cold start). Hot tests should improve his numbers.
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I was sure that I installe dot to dot...I have done this a few times...but I guess **** happens. I even had another set of eyes watching me to make absolute sure they were dot to dot. This is driving me nuts!!!
#145
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I was sure that I installe dot to dot...I have done this a few times...but I guess **** happens. I even had another set of eyes watching me to make absolute sure they were dot to dot. This is driving me nuts!!!
Last edited by Abdullah; 05-14-2006 at 01:48 AM.
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I was sure that I installe dot to dot...I have done this a few times...but I guess **** happens. I even had another set of eyes watching me to make absolute sure they were dot to dot. This is driving me nuts!!!
#147
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Originally Posted by Abdullah
i would say after you check the 7.400" PR's and the cam itself. take the AFR 205 heads off for a light hand porting job by a proffissional and flow test them to make sure they are flowing well.
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Originally Posted by 66deuce
it could be that the cam was ground wrong.a friend of mine installed his dot to dot and was down on power, and peaked too early.after they took it apart to degree it,found it was 4* advanced more than what the cam card said.sometimes cams are mis-ground.or maybe the timing gear on the crank(assuming it was an adjustable one)was installed advanced by mistake?just a thought.
So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
#149
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I think I'm leaning toward that fact that the cam was ground wrong or the dyno was not working properly. The timing gear is not adjustable and only goes on one way.
So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
before you put the cam again dot to dot make sure it is ground correctly i.e. take it and inspect it and make sure it matches the cam card.
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Originally Posted by joshp14
I think I'm leaning toward that fact that the cam was ground wrong or the dyno was not working properly. The timing gear is not adjustable and only goes on one way.
So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
So you all think my next step should be to pull the timing cover and make sure they are dot to dot? If it is OK, then what?
#151
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Sure sounds lke the cam is not installed right or ground right at this point. It always pays to degree the cam when installing. Dot to dot may be just fine for a stocker, but whenever you are shelling out the bucks for HP gains, it is worth while to see that you are getting what you paid for.
JakeFusion - sorry, I reread your post and realized we were saying the same thing
JakeFusion - sorry, I reread your post and realized we were saying the same thing
#152
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I would agree that the cam could definitely be ground wrong especially for the fact this is the second F-13 cam that has been installed....and the first DID have problems. Seriously, Id be inclined to ditch the F-13 and go with a proven winner in comp cams....
#154
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
the F13 is proven on many cars, the issues they had were not only issues to F13 cams but all cams ground by that company within that time frame
#155
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Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Exactly. If you exhaust all other avenues and still cant find the power, degree the cam or pull it and get it cam doctored.
#157
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What's interesting is his dyno is almost completely identical to mine from 3k to 5500.
My peak Hp was only 356 though because of the cam differences. at 6500 rpm, he still has 300 tq and I'm down to 270 by then.
My peak Hp was only 356 though because of the cam differences. at 6500 rpm, he still has 300 tq and I'm down to 270 by then.
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No I didnt, after doing all the checks I wasnt able to find anything. Compression was good, leakdown was good, all checked. I'm guessing that it was either the dyno being off or my tune isnt up to par. I still have to get it dyno tuned sooner or later.
#159
Originally Posted by joshp14
No I didnt, after doing all the checks I wasnt able to find anything. Compression was good, leakdown was good, all checked. I'm guessing that it was either the dyno being off or my tune isnt up to par. I still have to get it dyno tuned sooner or later.
Josh
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
i went through your mods on your page, similar to mine. i woudl put in some TR6 plugs gapped at 0.045". you should be making 445-450 with an ls6 intake without a problem. might want to check on the recommended lifter preload for those lifters....what length PR's do you have? i will tell you right now you are going to want some 36# injectors for that thing too, if you are on stock you better upgrade quick cause you will run them over 100%