397rwhp bolt-on only Vette, possible???
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http://www.mustangforums.com/m_1519135/mpage_3/tm.htm
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Mine was pretty dialed before I did the AFR H/C swap a couple of years ago and it was making around 355 RWHP....with 390 gears (so add 8-10), and with a LS6/heavily ported stock 78 mm TB (add 20 for a ported FAST 90). Come to think of it that was without an underdrive so tack on another 5...then there's the EWP so tack on another five....hell....400 is right around the corner....LOL.
I had a good air intake (Vortex Ram air), lighter aluminum flywheel, lower stat, 1.8 Crane rockers on the stock LS1 cam, Kooks 1.75 headers and a Magnaflow exhaust.
Bottom line....after reviewing the facts I have to say its possible, but highly unlikely. Keep in mind that this little academic exercise starts with a baseline that most shops claimed was very strong for the mods I had.
Good bench racing stuff....thats for sure.
Tony M.
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No seriously there's two angles to this.
Firstly is dyno type, settings and standards.
There are many different types of HP which are all a resprentation of torque at a particular speed (rpm).
Car engines are rated in Bhp as in Brake horse power because a brake device is used to measure torque and derive HP.
The most popular rolling road dyno in America is a Dynojet, typically these are inertia dyno's and use a stactic wieght/drag or effectively brake. Where as more sophsticated dyno's use load bearing where the the brake or wieght affect can be increased, often via electro magnet or via water loading.
Manufactures dyno engines on an engine dyno and typically load bearing rolling road chassis dyno's such as Mustang dyno's offer more comparable numbers to manufacture numbers once you have estimated (as best as possible) drivetrain loss.
This all adds up to Dynojet chassis dyno's showing comparitively HIGH numbers.
397rwhp on a Dynojet would probably be nearer 371rwhp on a Mustang Dyno.
Then you get to the settings of the dyno, a thing called graph smoothing will dramatically affect PEAK numbers. This does exactly what it says and it smooths out all the false peaks and dips to give a smoother linier dyno graph. If graph smoothing is OFF and the dyno is jumping all over the show then a false reading 20rwhp too high could easily be acheived on such a car.
You then have a thing such as standards and correction factors. These are designed to correct for atmospheric and altitude conditions so in theory you could dyno the same engine at 10,000ft in the cold and then a day later a sea level in 90 degrees and still acheive comparable results.
Dyno's don't usually correct striaght off and will display STD numbers. Typical correction would be to SAE however this is not always done, even if the dyno graph states it has been. Also owhen these correction factors are used they are often used incorrectly. However normally they will reduce the PEAK numbers.
So you can see highly optomistic numbers can be acheived but they are in effect totally meaningless as the car won't be any faster.
Another trick is, that because HP = torque x rpm / 5252 you can fool the dyno by using the wrong gear (it does happen!!! And more often than any would like to believe). To dyno a car on a rolling road you need to use the gear which has a ratio of 1:1 (or as close as) which is 4th with M6 and 3rd for an auto (stock tranny's). If you use a gear with a different ratio you can easily see much higher or lower numbers depending on the ratio used.
As for the actual mods, well I have never heard/seen/read of a car anywhere near that HP level.
There is such a thing as diminishing returns. Which means in terms of intake/exhaust mods there is only so much HP you can achive before the heads/cam become the real restrictions. You'll notice that all bolt on's claim a HP gain over STOCK. If you already have mods then you'll probably see less gain from the mod.
There are certain mods which will always release the same amount of power regardless of current setup, these would be things like water pump, air con, power steering. This is because these items require a set amount of HP to run.
Another way to inflate dyno numbers is reducing drivetrain loss. Over inflated tyres, ultra slick wheel bearings and light weight drive/prop shafts and flywheel will all reduce the loss via the drivetrain. The engine itself won't be producing any more power but the rwhp number should be higher.
After a far does of research I really doubt a stock internal LS1 on pump fuel is able to produce much more than 400-410bhp SAE Net. This will place it firmly at 350rwhp SAE corrected on a Mustang Dyno and the same car on a Dynojet corrected to SAE should be around 375rwhp. This all tally's in well with the actual numbers produced.
So in answer to your question is 397rwhp possible from a bolt on LS1. YES it is but it is most likely a FALSE reading and totally meaningless. In the same way you could print out your bank balance but show it in Aus$ instead of US$ but forget to mention that is what you have done, because it'll make it look like you have a lot more money.
Either that or the person is a total lier and has a tame cam and/or ported heads on there also and is just trying to make it out to be something it isn't.
It's called marketing. Has anybody ever gained 20rwhp from a fast 90/90 with stock heads/stock cam? I have a hard time believing that. And for what it's worth, oil touches rocker's. I believe that's the normal definition of boltons.
We had a shop claim they could hit 400rwhp with boltons on here a while ago, and nothing ever turned from it.. because it was bullshit. It's physically impossible to take a stock shortblock ls1 and add intake & t.b./full exhaust/underdrive/ewp/etc and make 400rwhp+.
Maybe he's talking about an ls2.
Peace,
Josh
Bruce




