Embarassingly Low Dyno #s - Mustang Dyno
#21
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Originally Posted by dynocar
300bhp/ton, I agree with you 100%. Also, when we test HP on a chassis dyno we normally use the RPM sweep method. When a manufacturer measures/rates their engines, they use the RPM step method. This in itself can cause the chassis dyno to read approx 5% lower. The sad truth is, if I were to introduce a new brand of chassis dyno tomorrow, it would give the highest numbers and somehow the public would rationalize that it is accurate.
#22
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Originally Posted by dynocar
WaSStock, if you increase the load, such as steady state testing, you will get higher numbers then using the RPM sweep method (less load) if the dyno is working correctly, or better yet, use the reverse sweep by pulling the engine from a high to a low RPM range which will really increase the numbers that some crate engine suppliers use to advertise their HP numbers.
I thought the later MD software had this as well, my bad.
#23
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Originally Posted by DynoDR
You are right on dc, if it reads higher then the factory must have under rated the advertised numbers!!! BUT if it reads lower than the "other" dynos, then your dyno must be BROKEN!!! LOL!
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Originally Posted by waSStock
Our dyno allows us to enter the total Polar Moment of Inertia value for components rotating at Engine RPM. This typically includes the internal engine components, flywheel/pressure-plate, input shaft, etc. When the engine is accelerating, a HP/inertia "credit" is given for the rotating mass of the engine. At steady state, there is zero credit, and just the opposite for the ol'reverse sweep method. I realize that this is not exactly what is being seen at the wheels, but it makes our comparison efforts easy.
I thought the later MD software had this as well, my bad.
I thought the later MD software had this as well, my bad.
#25
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Originally Posted by dynocar
Interesting, we have the new software ready to load, but, from past experiance, we are waiting for our off season to load and use it because we can't risk the new version's bugs down-time again now (we were down for a month because of our last software/hardware upgrade). Also, I would be reluctant to use this new feature because it will obviously give higher readings and mess with our 1000s of baselines we have already done. Don't we want the wheel HP/TQ readings with the actual inertia losses?
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Who cares if you made 200whp. Do some mods, go back to that same dyno, and you'll see the difference from what you've done, which is the purpose of a dyno.
We have two Mustang Dyno's at my shop. A MD1750 and a MD500 awd. We use them for tuning because they offer all of the features that we felt we needed to comfortably tune customers cars.
I have also heard that Dynojets are made to read higher as it obviously helps them with sales. Customers want to hear the highest numbers possibly in some cases, and Dynojets facilitate that. I've seen as much as 200whp difference between our Mustang numbers and a dynojet dyno not to far from here on big turbo cars. I've also seen big turbo cars that couldnt make any power on a dynojet because it didnt provide enough load to make the turbo spool up.
The best thing I can tell you is to use that dyno to check for increases when you do mods to your car, and check your trap speed at the track to calculate an educated guess at your actual RWHP.
We have two Mustang Dyno's at my shop. A MD1750 and a MD500 awd. We use them for tuning because they offer all of the features that we felt we needed to comfortably tune customers cars.
I have also heard that Dynojets are made to read higher as it obviously helps them with sales. Customers want to hear the highest numbers possibly in some cases, and Dynojets facilitate that. I've seen as much as 200whp difference between our Mustang numbers and a dynojet dyno not to far from here on big turbo cars. I've also seen big turbo cars that couldnt make any power on a dynojet because it didnt provide enough load to make the turbo spool up.
The best thing I can tell you is to use that dyno to check for increases when you do mods to your car, and check your trap speed at the track to calculate an educated guess at your actual RWHP.
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Thats not so bad at all, man... dynojet here, and I only did 10 hp better.
But with a decent 60' the lid/cut-out car would be good for 13.6s. Definitely not great, not even average- but it's not as bad as my dyno would have me guess.
But with a decent 60' the lid/cut-out car would be good for 13.6s. Definitely not great, not even average- but it's not as bad as my dyno would have me guess.
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Originally Posted by DynoDR
What version are you running now dc? The last version of the 7000 series or Powerdyne?
#29
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you are in the normal area for a mustang dyno and your mods. on a old set up of mine i was on a dynojet and got 391hp. one week later w/no mod changed i went on a mustang dyno and got 370hp. i now dyno 463hp on that same mustang dyno. the low 370hp on a head and camed ls1 didn't make me happy,but i kept modding to 463hp and now i'm modding my way to a 427ci which i hope to be around 570-580hp on the same mustang dyno. goodluck to ya.
#30
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From my experience, my former 98 Z28 LS1 M6 made 300 rwhp & 317 rwtq on a dynomotive chassis dyno (similar to MD results.) This was on the stock tune with the addition of: pacesetter long tube headers, 3" ORY, SLP lid.
Converted to approximate Dynojet numbers of + 0.13% that would bring it up to 339 rwhp & 358 rwtq.
My current 97 SS LT1 M6 made 250 rwhp & 269 rwtq on a mainline chassis dyno (again, similar to a MD) on the stock tune bone stock except for a k&n panel filter.
Converted to approximate Dynojet numbers, of + 0.13 % that would bring it up to 282 rwhp & 304 rwtq.
So from my experience, a healthy stock 96-97 LT1 M6 is down about 15-20 rwhp vs a healthy stock 98-2000 LS1 M6 car. Not as huge of a difference as it is made out to be.
Converted to approximate Dynojet numbers of + 0.13% that would bring it up to 339 rwhp & 358 rwtq.
My current 97 SS LT1 M6 made 250 rwhp & 269 rwtq on a mainline chassis dyno (again, similar to a MD) on the stock tune bone stock except for a k&n panel filter.
Converted to approximate Dynojet numbers, of + 0.13 % that would bring it up to 282 rwhp & 304 rwtq.
So from my experience, a healthy stock 96-97 LT1 M6 is down about 15-20 rwhp vs a healthy stock 98-2000 LS1 M6 car. Not as huge of a difference as it is made out to be.
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~15 years later, I think we can put this one to bed.
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