jegten

iTrader: (22)

i read a thread saying you got the 7.425 push rods.
did you use the stock rocker arms?

i am about to install mine, but now i am confused about the length of the PRs.
i am keeping the stock rockers, even though i am using a stage 2 ls6 heads.

okls1

Yes I used 7.425 with stock rockers, was supposed to have better preload with that cam since it has a smaller base circle then stock. Not sure if the heads will effect that though. My cam is the 110lsa 108icl so my power should be lower and peak more

Pewterme

I'm guessing that's me. My original numbers with headers and air intake were 339 rwhp and 350 rwtq. After the cam install and a tune they went to 390 rwhp and 356 rwtq. Knowing this cam was supposed to be a good torque producer I then bought an adjustable timing chain and had the cam degreed. The numbers then were 386 rwhp and 382 rwtq. The difference in rwhp was only 4 and that actually was a spike on the graph so actually hp stayed the same with a great increase in hp and tq across the board. My guess would be that degreeing you also would see an increase in tq and probably an increase all across the board in both. It cost me an additional 900 or so for labor, timing chain, and retune; but I wasn't going to be happy until the cam performed the way it was supposed to. The SOTP feel was obvious afterwards.

okls1

Ya I was talking about you, and now that I look at your before and after graph again I guess I should get a chain and degreeing kit. Looks much better now. I just dont want to screw it up, even with the instructions on here. Hopefully wont cost me 900 though since I will be doing install Right now my main problem is with shifting, not sure if its tranny or hydrolics, but something is not happy Thanks for the help.

Did your installer have to take the motor out of the car? I was looking at thunder and they only have the large degreeing wheel which I read won't fit in the engine bay. I wont be taking motor out so just wondering if there was a way to do it, and what method did he use for finding tdc? thanks

Pewterme

I think he used a degreeing wheel but I know he didn't have to take the engine out. Shouldn't cost you as much since your going to do the labor. I know someone on here can give you some help on getting it degreed the easiest way. Curious to see what your results are afterwards.

1stz06

iTrader: (18)

I am running the 228/232 588/592 110+1 w/AFR 205's miled .0020. Originally Dyned 440/397. I went in and added 4* advance and picked up 13 RWTQ across the board. I am pleased with the outcome. That was through a fried clutch too!!

jegten

iTrader: (22)

hey, Pewterme,

i was thinking, and after reading the post right after this one of yours, when you took it back to get it degreed, did they actually add more advance to the cam?
meaning, yours is a 110+2, right? installed straight up. then they degreed it for you, and added more advance, say 2* or more?

i am curious to know this. 1stz06 added 4* more, after his 110+1.

thanks

PS: mine is going in next weekend.

Pewterme

Mine actually is a 110+1. It was supposed to be on a 109 Intake Centerline, but installing on dot to dot I think it was a 112 or so. Degreeing got it on a 109.