LME 408, AFR 225, G5X4 Combo
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I'm not sure why only one person has mentioned his slipping clutch. With a slipping clutch he obviously isn't getting an accurate dyno run which in turn would cause his tune to be slightly off. First fix the slipping clutch and definitely upgrade your injectors and pump and then get your tune lined up.
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Originally Posted by silent1
I'm not sure why only one person has mentioned his slipping clutch. With a slipping clutch he obviously isn't getting an accurate dyno run which in turn would cause his tune to be slightly off. First fix the slipping clutch and definitely upgrade your injectors and pump and then get your tune lined up.
fix the clutch FIRST and they see where it puts you. THEN start diagnosing problems.
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I must have missed the part aboutr the slipping clutch, if its slipping than that is the first problem you must fix. With a slipping clutch you are losing a **** load of power to the wheels.
Either way you need larger injectors too.
Either way you need larger injectors too.
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Thanks for the input everyone.
As far as my injectors, thats what was recommended, but its not enough then I will just have to step up, stock fuel system otherwise. I dont know if your going off the 200-300 nitrous shot. That is not on the car yet, but will be in the future with a standalone system.
I will definately change out the MAF and the clutch. When I was waiting on my engine, I got in trouble speeding on my bike. Long story short, cop accussed me of evading, had to hire an attorney. And thats where the rest of my money went that I planned to have at the time to complete my build(Roller Rockers, Spec 3, Tranny rebuild, nitrous setup, 12 bolt, chassis, suspension, brakes).
So, I definately knew my clutch was going to give. It crapped out pretty much on the first pull.
As far as fuel, I use 93 pump gas. My tires that I just got, Yokohama AVS ES100. Have about 200 miles on them, cold tire pressure 30 & 31 psi. Was going to replace my 315 Michelin Pilot Sports, but ones flat and it cant be repaired and they dont make them any more, so cant buy one. So using my stock size, 275. Looking to change over to a ZR1 rim later, seem to have better tire choices for sizing.
Hope to have the dyno graph up tommorrow, car doesn't have a mail order tune. If anyone over at MTI looking, can you please shime in with some info during my dyno and tune.
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As far as my injectors, thats what was recommended, but its not enough then I will just have to step up, stock fuel system otherwise. I dont know if your going off the 200-300 nitrous shot. That is not on the car yet, but will be in the future with a standalone system.
I will definately change out the MAF and the clutch. When I was waiting on my engine, I got in trouble speeding on my bike. Long story short, cop accussed me of evading, had to hire an attorney. And thats where the rest of my money went that I planned to have at the time to complete my build(Roller Rockers, Spec 3, Tranny rebuild, nitrous setup, 12 bolt, chassis, suspension, brakes).
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As far as fuel, I use 93 pump gas. My tires that I just got, Yokohama AVS ES100. Have about 200 miles on them, cold tire pressure 30 & 31 psi. Was going to replace my 315 Michelin Pilot Sports, but ones flat and it cant be repaired and they dont make them any more, so cant buy one. So using my stock size, 275. Looking to change over to a ZR1 rim later, seem to have better tire choices for sizing.
Hope to have the dyno graph up tommorrow, car doesn't have a mail order tune. If anyone over at MTI looking, can you please shime in with some info during my dyno and tune.
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Please put a clutch in that car that will hold. As for the headers, theyre not holding you back as much as you think. Ive personally seen a car with a 427 get strapped down at MTI make 550+ with Mac mid lengths.
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Originally Posted by Doomsday
That being said, any suggestions on a clutch? Will likely do a Spec 3.
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my stock fuel pump couldnt hold up when all i have was a STS kit makin 405 at the wheels. a big motor needs a big pump.
also i have had all these mcleod single, spec 3, spec 4, and now a center force 12in.
i highly reccommend the center force 12in DF i love it best clutch i have had yet. ummmmmm and cheapest to boot
also i have had all these mcleod single, spec 3, spec 4, and now a center force 12in.
i highly reccommend the center force 12in DF i love it best clutch i have had yet. ummmmmm and cheapest to boot
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$100 bucks says that the fuel pump only will net him 30+ Hp. I had the same problem. Bought 60# mototrons and still was getting low numbers and the injectors were still going static. Changed the stock pump with a Racetronix Plug and pray, duty cycle never went up past 65%. Put 42# inj in because I thought that the 60#ers were causing driveability issues (they weren't). You could get by with those inj but a 38 or a 42 would be better. I am at about 78% max idc.
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Well, I will check our sponsors for a clutch and hopefully have something on order by next week. Sucks that I get to pay $1200 in taxes now.
I will keep you all posted on the never ending saga.
Thanks everyone.
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I will keep you all posted on the never ending saga.
Thanks everyone.
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
I would like to know how they could tell you the timing is dead on without an A/F reading, and I want to know how you can properly tune a car without it on the dyno. Sounds like you need someone else to dyno/tune the car.
By the way, having trouble with the scanner at work for the graph. So likely to just get this going and redyno in the near future and post the before & after.
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Originally Posted by Doomsday
Exactly what they said. I have not familiarized myself with some basic knowledge of A/F readings, so I couldnt question them then and there at the time. Well, as far as the cluthc goes, I was looking at the SPEC 3/3+, but there is some bad rep going on in Manual Tranny section. Looking now at either Centerforce Dual Friction 12" as suggested and RAM Powergrip HD. Just checking some reviews and opinions.
By the way, having trouble with the scanner at work for the graph. So likely to just get this going and redyno in the near future and post the before & after.
By the way, having trouble with the scanner at work for the graph. So likely to just get this going and redyno in the near future and post the before & after.
or the clutches fault. I went to an a3 so I don't worry about it anymore. But if I were to do it over gain, I would get a spec 5 or try the ones you listed there..
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
I would like to know how they could tell you the timing is dead on without an A/F reading, and I want to know how you can properly tune a car without it on the dyno. Sounds like you need someone else to dyno/tune the car.
The SLP Headers and Stock MAF are the main bottlenecks for power. From what I recall the clutch was not slipping on the dyno. The A/F ratio is measured by a Innovate unit and does not log on the dyno runs but is monitored by the dyno operator inside the car and adjustments are made accordingly....that is why you don't see an A/F reading on the graph. Jayson has been tuning LT1 and LSX vehicles for over a decade, I assure you there is no problem in the tune.
Zach