Dynoed tonight
Originally Posted by Flamin' bird
No the bird isnt a daily driver anymore. The MS4 is what I chose after reading about it. You can use stock heads and no need to flycut. It also is very streetable. I can try Jeff again closer to the time when I have the money for the tune. Right now I still am getting all I need for the cam swap
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
o ok good luck with your cam...from what i have seen it really doesn't start to make any useful power until like 4k and up, just make sure you get some good springs, a guy just posted in the internal section the other day about how he had an MS4 and his springs wore out in less then 10k miles
Well you better start because with that cam the cops are going to be on you like crazy. Sometimes I wish I had gone with a small cam and just been happy with beating mustangs.
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Sometimes I wish I had gone with a small cam and just been happy with beating mustangs.
Well, just for overall driveability sake, that's a quite large cam, especially for an auto. She's gonna need a bigger stall and gears for that to be pleasurable, which means more money.
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Well, just for overall driveability sake, that's a quite large cam, especially for an auto. She's gonna need a bigger stall and gears for that to be pleasurable, which means more money.
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Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
she has a m6..but still overall driveability is gonna be pretty bad
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
that is what just about everyone that has gone with cams like an ms4 ends up saying...honestly that cam wont make any power until you hit about 3500 rpms or so, it will be like driving a honda or something.
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
as far as streetability almost any cam can be considered streetable to many people but i personally don't think a cam with a powerband that high would be very useful on the street especially if you plan on keeping the stock 3.42 gears. 4.10s would help but the car would still have to be revved to the moon with that cam.
How many times have I diagnosed something wrong?
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
Not trying to hate on your cam or anything just that lots of people have gone with big cams just because other people have said they are fine and then later on they end up switching to a smaller cam
Last edited by Gangreen; Jul 29, 2007 at 06:32 PM.
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
So the only other mods you'll have will be LT's and a lid with this cam?
Originally Posted by Gangreen
How many Cammed cars have you driven?
Do you realize that you don't start making peak horse power in the car you have now, as it is, until around 3500-5000? That is why people go with higher stall converters (ie:3500-4200 stall), So that when you launch Full throttle you are already in your power band. The whole reason for doing the cam is so that when you launch you have higher power when you hit those RPM's. High RPM on an LS1 would be like 5000-6200, not 3500. You want your power at 3500-5000.
Now what I want you to do, is go out and launch full throttle somewhere, watch your RPMs and tell me how long you sit in the 1500-3500 RPM range. At the track you would almost never be that low in the RPMs. Do you think I would let her put a useless cam in her car?
How many times have I diagnosed something wrong?
Yeah, and lots of under-educated and uninformed people on here and many other boards buy exhaust and headers because they saw other people did them, only to complain later about "Loud Exhaust" or "Rasp" or some other silly problem. The idea here is to read first.... Get all you need and use the power the way it is meant to be used. Also a honda Revs much higher, like 7000. and S2000s rev to 9000.
Do you realize that you don't start making peak horse power in the car you have now, as it is, until around 3500-5000? That is why people go with higher stall converters (ie:3500-4200 stall), So that when you launch Full throttle you are already in your power band. The whole reason for doing the cam is so that when you launch you have higher power when you hit those RPM's. High RPM on an LS1 would be like 5000-6200, not 3500. You want your power at 3500-5000.
Now what I want you to do, is go out and launch full throttle somewhere, watch your RPMs and tell me how long you sit in the 1500-3500 RPM range. At the track you would almost never be that low in the RPMs. Do you think I would let her put a useless cam in her car?
How many times have I diagnosed something wrong?
Yeah, and lots of under-educated and uninformed people on here and many other boards buy exhaust and headers because they saw other people did them, only to complain later about "Loud Exhaust" or "Rasp" or some other silly problem. The idea here is to read first.... Get all you need and use the power the way it is meant to be used. Also a honda Revs much higher, like 7000. and S2000s rev to 9000.
Originally Posted by Flamin' bird
No the bird isnt a daily driver anymore. The MS4 is what I chose after reading about it. You can use stock heads and no need to flycut. It also is very streetable. I can try Jeff again closer to the time when I have the money for the tune. Right now I still am getting all I need for the cam swap
As for it being so streetable I highly doubt that with the over 15 degrees of overlap and the giant loss of dynamic compression it will be as streetable as you think. But hey streetability is all relative.
Lots of Internet geniuses and hearsay in this thread.
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
she has a m6..but still overall driveability is gonna be pretty bad
The drivebaility issue comes from the high overlap, which in the low end can cause a lot of bucking and surging. It can be cured with tuning and gears, but only to a certain extent.
Originally Posted by brad8266
Yoiu dont even own a cammed car do you? Have you seen the graphs on MS4 cars? Most of them are well over 350 ft lbs at 3K rpm's, which is plenty of down low power. It aint gonna drive like a honda down low, it would rape you bolton car down low.
The drivebaility issue comes from the high overlap, which in the low end can cause a lot of bucking and surging. It can be cured with tuning and gears, but only to a certain extent.
The drivebaility issue comes from the high overlap, which in the low end can cause a lot of bucking and surging. It can be cured with tuning and gears, but only to a certain extent.
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
when i said it would drive like a honda i didn't mean it would have no torque at all..what i basically meant is it wont get into the power band until it really hits pretty high in the rpm range much like a honda does..if you actually read most of what i said you would see that i was basically saying on the street the car really wont start making power until about 3500 rpms and would peak around 6500 or a lil higher. and no i may not have a cammed car yet but most of the people that probably told her the cam is very streetable probably don't have cammed cars either. i have been reasearching cams for a while so that when i go with my H/C setup (which will be very soon) I will pick a cam that is streetable and still runs well at the track
I am with you on the streetable H/C setup. I have a medium size cam with a good set of heads and make 450 and its very drivable.
Originally Posted by quiet_storm98
and no i may not have a cammed car yet but most of the people that probably told her the cam is very streetable probably don't have cammed cars either.
I wish if a person wasn't speaking from personal experience, they would either shut the **** up or write that they either read it or heard it but don't know first hand. There's nothing wrong with saying, "I'm still deciding on my fist cam [or whatever], but from what I've researched on here..."