I got a full bolt on T/A that i want to take to Texas Speed to tune. Im wondering, how much will i get out of this? If i can achieve flat 13's on drag radials with stock stall, i would consider this the last of what i need to do for quite a while. Currently the car is capable of 13.4's untuned on street tires. I figure im putting 310-315ish to the wheels currently. Maybe even a little less since its an auto. After a dyno tune im hoping for around 325-335 to the wheels. In an auto is this unrealistic? Ill be a little more clear on my exact mods - K&N cold air, LT headers, LS6 manifold, stock tb, stock mass air, stock cam, no stall. More than being worried about the overall #'s my question lies in, "If they baseline me at say..310hp to the wheels with the current setup what realistic expectations can i make for gains through tuning alone. Basically i think if the car can put down another 15 from the dyno tune then the $350 will be worth it and the flat 13 on radials is achieveable. Anybody been here before with a similar setup that can help me decide if the money is worth spending?

 

On a setup like your's, I typically see around 330-340 on a good tune. You should be at least 13.0 if you can hook properly, not really based on the power your put down, that would be the trap speed.

 

get a stall and some tires you'll get to flat 13, esp at Idalou. hell when I was just bolt-ons w/ a m6, street tires and bogging on the line I went 13.4 there in Idalou

 

I put down 333hp and 353tq with slp longtubes, ory, and open cutout. I have a whisper lid hand ported tb with a K&N...i think you should be able to achieve that easy.

Stock tune btw.

 

if you are putting on drag radials like you plan you will probably be able to run a 13.0 without a tune. But anyway i had my car tuned with boltons and it picked up about 15hp but when i went to the track it consistently trapped much higher. I went from a 13.46 @ 104.9 to a best of 13.09 @ 109.9..i would have went even faster if i wouldn't have been on crappy 18 inch sumitomo street tires so i think a tune is worth it.

 

Thats about exactly what im running so if i make the same gains id consider that worth the $300. Thanks guys.

If anyone else has "bolton" dyno tune #'s please post up your HP/TQ and mods. Im really looking for cars without a stall because i dont really consider that a bolton, if a stall is the only thing beyond exhaust and intake mods post anyway (figure dt loss would make for even smaller #'s anyway). Quarter mile times if you have them as well please. BE SPECIFIC

 

Oh and PLEASE LIST A4 OR M6!!!!!!!

 

Where the hell is Idalou??

 

by the way mine is a m6..honestly though if you bought a stall and used drag radials you would probably definately run a 13.0 or better without a tune

 

Even a stock car can benefit greatly from tuning. Even if you didn't see any time increase, the drivability, throttle response, gas mileage, etc will improve.

 

I know a stall is a huge gain in your short time perf. but i take an offbeat pride in having one of the fastest all motor, no stall, no cam (bolt on) LS1's around my block. Oh, and + im too poor to buy, install and tune one right now. Its a mythodical progression i tell myself. All scientific like ya know. I hear stalled cars trap a lil slower than non stalled autos. Also, in order to have one installed properly requires an external oil cooler since lockup converters run hotter than non, just more $. And id like a Yank 36 so your talkin $650 right there, prolly a G before its all said and done - as opposed to $300-350 to just get a little more for a little bit longer. Of all these guys that say thay are gonna save up and just do it all at once i bet only 1/4 or so have the car long enough to get it done. One step at a time. I have my EGR stuff removed and the car runs like **** while the AIR pump for the cats is on for the first couple minutes and i have no cats, so the ECU is all kinds of a mess. Just really needs a tune. Sorry for the novel and ultimately i agree with you - a 3600 stall is the very next mod - just hope they hook me up for the retune. Either way its long enough down the road that it would still be worth tuning now.

 

With bolt ons I dynoed at 332hp 340tq with a TSP mail order tune I had LTs, catted Y,
LS6 intake my car is a M6. Your in Hobbs what is the alt. of the track there? I'm in ABQ.

 

Personally, I would NOT have it tuned unless you are done modding for at least the next year. If you plan on camming it within a year, or buying a torque converter (that's what you would buy, not a "stall"), then wait until you get those mods done before tuning it.

 

^^^ Agreed. The tune will be worth it if you are going to keep it bolt-ons-only for quite a while. If you plan on internal mods anytime soon, hold off since you'll have to get it retuned again for another $300-500.

There's no reason a full bolt-on auto LS1 shouldn't hit 12s unless they are in bad air/weather, or possibly if it's on street tires and is having major traction issues.

 

TSP tuned mine, I had somewhat similar mods. Before you go you should pp your tb, and throw in a cut out. I would say your around 330-340rwhp. I don't know what the altitude is down in hobbs, but I ran a 13.83 in Lubbock, last sept. It's like 4000ft there, don't know what the DA was that night... Had bad traction. Anyway TSP hooked me up. My car was way out of tune... 295 first pull AF was crazy off, ended up with 335/348. The guys at tsp are really cool and help you out. If you go back for a retune, it won't cast as much as the initial tune.

 

bolt on m6 344 @ 350 untuned, with tune 354 @ 366

 

You should hit 330's even with the auto. I did an A4 WS6 about 6 mths ago with only a lid, LT's, and catless duals and it dynoed 342 hp and 350 tq. That was with a street tune, I would imagine a few more hp could be coaxed out on a dyno.

 

Altitude in Hobbs is 3,600ft and it was a humid 70 degrees or so. Have you run it since the tune?