View Poll Results: realistic numbers
yes on both h/p n tq
18
72.00%
no on both h/p n tq
4
16.00%
yes on h/p no on tq
2
8.00%
no on h/p yes on tq
1
4.00%
Voters: 25. You may not vote on this poll
Are my goals realistic?
thats also what i believe, thats why i said shooting for low 12's 
my car isnt a drag car, its a street car. i want to know on the street what it would run basically. putting on d/r or slicks and running 11.xx or whatever isnt a big deal to me b/c thats not what i run on the street. if id wanted it to be a drag car it would have a 12 bolt or 9 inch with lower gears, better heads, and a way more agressive cam ect..........
my car isnt a drag car, its a street car. i want to know on the street what it would run basically. putting on d/r or slicks and running 11.xx or whatever isnt a big deal to me b/c thats not what i run on the street. if id wanted it to be a drag car it would have a 12 bolt or 9 inch with lower gears, better heads, and a way more agressive cam ect..........
[QUOTE=2000 Tran Zam;8327183]if your tires spin obviously you dont go somewhere as fast but when they hook your mph at that location is faster allowing your car to "start"(assuming it hooks at that time) accelerating at a higher mph further back, which is why your trap is higher and your ET is lower.QUOTE]
I'm gonna have to disagree with that. If I hook up at point X, then my vehicle is going to be traveling at a greater rate of speed than if I'm spinning at the same point.
For example, (just using arbitrary numbers here): Say my car is traveling 45mph at the 200' mark because it hooked up. Now say I swap on street tires and it's only going 35mph at the same point because it spun. Now my car has the same to make up 10 more mph of speed. I don't see how it'll be going faster.
I think it has to do with tire pressure and possibly a drag from a larger contact patch, not from hooking up vs. spinning.
I'm gonna have to disagree with that. If I hook up at point X, then my vehicle is going to be traveling at a greater rate of speed than if I'm spinning at the same point.
For example, (just using arbitrary numbers here): Say my car is traveling 45mph at the 200' mark because it hooked up. Now say I swap on street tires and it's only going 35mph at the same point because it spun. Now my car has the same to make up 10 more mph of speed. I don't see how it'll be going faster.
I think it has to do with tire pressure and possibly a drag from a larger contact patch, not from hooking up vs. spinning.
wheres the button to vote on whether or not your time goal is realistic? honestly thats the only thing you should be worried about, use the dyno as a tuning tool and thats it.
esp with an A4 you will dyno low but run well at the track. sounds like a solid setup... just go for it, get some decent tires and have fun.
wouldnt it be much more fun to show someone a dyno sheet with like 370 hp / 350 tq and then run mid 11's with it?
esp with an A4 you will dyno low but run well at the track. sounds like a solid setup... just go for it, get some decent tires and have fun.
wouldnt it be much more fun to show someone a dyno sheet with like 370 hp / 350 tq and then run mid 11's with it?
^Why do you read the dyno section if you don't think dyno numbers matter?
The numbers and times might not be comparable to a stick car with the same mods, but it's comparable to a similarly setup car.
The numbers and times might not be comparable to a stick car with the same mods, but it's comparable to a similarly setup car.
Thread Starter
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From: memphis, tennessee
there isnt a will i hit a low 12's poll button b/c to me its not so important
i know it will get low 12's, i know ill have traction issues with street tires.
i might get drag radials, i know they would lower my 60's hence a better time. im just not going to bust this rear end up now. just dropped the money into this motor and if the rear goes ill be buying a bus ticket and schedule. later down the road ill upgrade the rear and then ill run d/r or slicks for track only. but that might be next summer. then ill be hunting those mid 11's. now all i want is low 12's and ill be satisfied.
i know it will get low 12's, i know ill have traction issues with street tires.
i might get drag radials, i know they would lower my 60's hence a better time. im just not going to bust this rear end up now. just dropped the money into this motor and if the rear goes ill be buying a bus ticket and schedule. later down the road ill upgrade the rear and then ill run d/r or slicks for track only. but that might be next summer. then ill be hunting those mid 11's. now all i want is low 12's and ill be satisfied.
Thread Starter
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From: memphis, tennessee
wheres the button to vote on whether or not your time goal is realistic? honestly thats the only thing you should be worried about, use the dyno as a tuning tool and thats it.
esp with an A4 you will dyno low but run well at the track. sounds like a solid setup... just go for it, get some decent tires and have fun.
wouldnt it be much more fun to show someone a dyno sheet with like 370 hp / 350 tq and then run mid 11's with it?
esp with an A4 you will dyno low but run well at the track. sounds like a solid setup... just go for it, get some decent tires and have fun.
wouldnt it be much more fun to show someone a dyno sheet with like 370 hp / 350 tq and then run mid 11's with it?
the dyno number honestly are just braggin rights, i know this. i like being able to say my z makes 440 rwhp and i drive it everyday rain or snow blowing that chilli wind when i get hot from all the biatches leanin over me to see my pimp *** ride.YEAH!
You can take it easy on the rear even with the drag radials. The A4's aren't as hard on the rear as M6's. Also you can ease it off the line and then punch it. Obviously this won't be as fast as a hard launch, but it'll be better than babying it for the 1st 3rd of the track like you'll have to do with street tires and a decent converter.
[QUOTE=ScreaminRedZ;8327664] thats the difference, if you hooked your at 45 mph cause you hooked and moved forward. if your spinning you barely move forward so at 35 mph youd be behind...
if your tires spin obviously you dont go somewhere as fast but when they hook your mph at that location is faster allowing your car to "start"(assuming it hooks at that time) accelerating at a higher mph further back, which is why your trap is higher and your ET is lower.QUOTE]
I'm gonna have to disagree with that. If I hook up at point X, then my vehicle is going to be traveling at a greater rate of speed than if I'm spinning at the same point.
For example, (just using arbitrary numbers here): Say my car is traveling 45mph at the 200' mark because it hooked up. Now say I swap on street tires and it's only going 35mph at the same point because it spun. Now my car has the same to make up 10 more mph of speed. I don't see how it'll be going faster.
I think it has to do with tire pressure and possibly a drag from a larger contact patch, not from hooking up vs. spinning.
I'm gonna have to disagree with that. If I hook up at point X, then my vehicle is going to be traveling at a greater rate of speed than if I'm spinning at the same point.
For example, (just using arbitrary numbers here): Say my car is traveling 45mph at the 200' mark because it hooked up. Now say I swap on street tires and it's only going 35mph at the same point because it spun. Now my car has the same to make up 10 more mph of speed. I don't see how it'll be going faster.
I think it has to do with tire pressure and possibly a drag from a larger contact patch, not from hooking up vs. spinning.
When you spin you still move forward, just not as fast. If you hook and your going 45 mph at point X, and then on street tires you spin and are only going 35 mph at the same point X then you have less distance with more mph to make up to even go the same speed at the end.
Thread Starter
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From: memphis, tennessee
why do you think the h/p would be so low? people with similar cams like the 233/239 texas speed sells w/ these heads through a4 cars are getting 420ish 390 ish w/ more restrictive intakes ( ls6 ) and less free flowing exhaust systems.
people with similar cam only cars are getiing over 400rwhp, i just think heads and higher compression with this cam i got have to be worth at least 25 rwhp. which would put my in the mid- high 430 range
Last edited by 3rdgentug; Dec 19, 2007 at 10:33 AM.
