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Header comparison (1-3/4" vs. stepped)

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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 07:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by slmdLS1
me too, mine was right around 30rwhp, but i went with the 1-7/8's stepped to 2" and td's.

I`m pushing 526rwhp 489trq at the wheels with a nitrous tune, A4, 12-bolt, and nitrous converter!

I was told she should really shine on spray. My 200 shot!!!
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 07:34 PM
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What is the point of stepped headers? Not busting just want to know what the result is supposed to be...rationale behind the stepped header? I am using 1 7/8th kooks.

Last edited by ExceSSive; Dec 19, 2007 at 08:00 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 12:27 AM
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Nice comparision, yeah, we do need more threads like this.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ExceSSive
What is the point of stepped headers? Not busting just want to know what the result is supposed to be...rationale behind the stepped header? I am using 1 7/8th kooks.
im no expert, but i would guess volume and velocity. i went from 1-3/4 all the way to a 3" collector, to a 1-7/8 stepped to 2" to 3.5" collectors.

i picked up 1/8" at the primary, 1/4" where they are stepped a few inches down the primaries, and then a whole 1/2" at the collector. the big cube motors, especially ones built for FI, love that kind of pick up/flow/volume.

imagine 1/8" at the primary x 8 primaries(another 1"), 1/4" x8 primaries(2")...thats a lot more volume/velocity than what it looks like on paper.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by slmdLS1
im no expert, but i would guess volume and velocity. i went from 1-3/4 all the way to a 3" collector, to a 1-7/8 stepped to 2" to 3.5" collectors.

i picked up 1/8" at the primary, 1/4" where they are stepped a few inches down the primaries, and then a whole 1/2" at the collector. the big cube motors, especially ones built for FI, love that kind of pick up/flow/volume.

imagine 1/8" at the primary x 8 primaries(another 1"), 1/4" x8 primaries(2")...thats a lot more volume/velocity than what it looks like on paper.

I could be wrong here but I thought if you could fit more volume then the velocity would be lower...like a water hose...pressure from a fire hose down to a garden hose will make it come out faster and harder but not flow as much...go from garden hose to fire hose and the pressure reduces as there is more volume to fill up. Where are the engineers in this place? Seems there is always one of those guys around until you need one. I see how it decreases the amount of restriction but at what point do you need that? Should I have gone with a stepped to 2" for my 408? Now I wonder...

BTW...thanks to the original poster for the info and I hope to see your new heads/cam setup results...wish you could do it with the other headers and then swap again to compare both ways.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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I'll be making the switch from 1 3/4 QTP's to some 1 7/8 QTP's. Hope to see some good gains in the midrange and top end with my new setup.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ExceSSive
I could be wrong here but I thought if you could fit more volume then the velocity would be lower...like a water hose...pressure from a fire hose down to a garden hose will make it come out faster and harder but not flow as much...go from garden hose to fire hose and the pressure reduces as there is more volume to fill up. Where are the engineers in this place? Seems there is always one of those guys around until you need one. I see how it decreases the amount of restriction but at what point do you need that? Should I have gone with a stepped to 2" for my 408? Now I wonder...

BTW...thanks to the original poster for the info and I hope to see your new heads/cam setup results...wish you could do it with the other headers and then swap again to compare both ways.
I think the way it'll work is similar to the guys running a 90mm FAST intake and stock 75mm maf. The 1st half of the intake (from lid to tb) is smaller and from the tb back is bigger, allowing for more volume. However, there has to be a need for the extra volume. Bolt-on cars arent seeing the gains that the H/C cars are seeing. Maybe My logic is wrong here, but thats just the way I look at it.
So, I'm assuming that after I install the heads and intake, I will have a need for the extra volume. Right now, the extra volume isnt hurting, but isnt really helping either. I think a lot of it has to do with the fact that I have a VERY low restriction exhaust (3" td's with 1-chamber flowmasters). So at my power level, the 1-3/4" headers were not a restriction, therefore the stepped headers didnt have any effect on power. I didn't want to jump to a full 1-7/8" because I was always told that it was too big, and that I wouldnt need that unless I was FI, bigger cubes, or at least HUGE H/C combo. Neither of which I have. But then again, I ignored that advice when I was told the same about running a 3" td setup too, but with my cam, it seems to be working out just fine. So who knows?
Anyways, thanks! Hope to have results from the head swap in a couple of months!
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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I use the same race victors as you with heads a small cam and a ported fast 90. The headers work very well in that combo.
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Guys, the deal with the stepped header is the benefit of the larger tubes while trying to maintain velocity. The critical area is where the primary makes its first bend. This is where reversion is going to occur. The smaller tube size off the flange helps to reduce reversion.

I have a tapered header on my sportbike and the company that makes it said it very well. When the exhaust enters the first bend the exhaust is forced against the outside wall of the pipe and it tends to reverse on the inside wall of the pipe, just like a river when water flows backwards when it enters a bend.

I would like to see automotive headers use this design. Instead of making the 1st part of the primary smaller, make it oval or tapered to keep velocity up but keep the overall diameter the same.
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