FAST 92/92 swapped in
I'm his tuner, and I can tell you it isn't in the tune! I spent a lot of time seeing what it wanted - ended up best with 12.8 AFR and 27* of timing. I tried richer, leaner, more timing and less... spent 2 hours trying to find more.
Every time one of these big intakes come in on a stock cube car, I hate it, cause they never pick up as much as the customer thinks they will. Been proven over and over... The bigger MAF might help, but the stock one usually flows plenty for cars of this power level. However, looking at the logs, the KPA was pulling back into the 95 column at higher RPMs, indicating a restriction in front of the intake...
The biggest power robber on this particular car is the converter - but I'm afraid to lock it up to show the difference and break it on the dyno... I say run it at the track and see what it traps. Then maybe try an 85mm and see if we can pull some more out.
Every time one of these big intakes come in on a stock cube car, I hate it, cause they never pick up as much as the customer thinks they will. Been proven over and over... The bigger MAF might help, but the stock one usually flows plenty for cars of this power level. However, looking at the logs, the KPA was pulling back into the 95 column at higher RPMs, indicating a restriction in front of the intake...
The biggest power robber on this particular car is the converter - but I'm afraid to lock it up to show the difference and break it on the dyno... I say run it at the track and see what it traps. Then maybe try an 85mm and see if we can pull some more out.
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: maryland
I saw this car on the dyno last night. BLK02WS6 is an awesome tuner he tuned my car 2 weeks ago and Im loving the way it drives. Don’t worry about the numbers u put down with the fast92 just take it to the track and see what it dose.
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From: Western Burbs of Detroit
Why are your numbers low ??
1. Stingy Mustang Dyno
2. a4 built
3. stalled
4. geared
You don't have an aggressive setup at all bro. I would imagine an a4 stalled like you have it and geared must **** and git outta the hole !!! You want more power throw a bigger cam, a better set of heads. Other then that enjoy the neck snapping shifts you get when you put your foot down.
1. Stingy Mustang Dyno
2. a4 built
3. stalled
4. geared
You don't have an aggressive setup at all bro. I would imagine an a4 stalled like you have it and geared must **** and git outta the hole !!! You want more power throw a bigger cam, a better set of heads. Other then that enjoy the neck snapping shifts you get when you put your foot down.
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From: Western Burbs of Detroit
To play devils advocate for ya, just because I was pretty upset about not hitting the MAGICAL 500 rwhp number. I would guess if you were an m6 car, 10 bolt, 3.42 gears, and dyno'd on a dyno jet your combo would only make 420 rwhp TOPS. BIG power takes a bigger cam. Just be glad you don't have to worry about swapping valve springs every year. As much power as my dyno queen made she only was able to trap 123.6 mph into a headwind spinning to a 2.11 60 time and et'd 12.02 I'd love to have your 60 time bro. My car doesn't really show her hand until the big end, and your car definately isn't bluffing off the line. If we were to race you most likely win the 1/4, but anything after that see ya. So now ask yourself what you built your car for ?? Did you want to be quick, or fast ?? I believe you wanted to be quick and you are bro, I wanted to be fast, and believe me 200 mph is fast !!
Not a bad gain for a stock cubed setup on the mild side. Makes you wonder if it's worth the high cost though.
When everyone talks about getting a bigger MAF, is it better to get a whole new unit, or do the aftermarket housings with the stock internals work well?
When everyone talks about getting a bigger MAF, is it better to get a whole new unit, or do the aftermarket housings with the stock internals work well?
Last edited by ScreaminRedZ; Oct 9, 2008 at 10:50 AM.
I'm his tuner, and I can tell you it isn't in the tune! I spent a lot of time seeing what it wanted - ended up best with 12.8 AFR and 27* of timing. I tried richer, leaner, more timing and less... spent 2 hours trying to find more.
Every time one of these big intakes come in on a stock cube car, I hate it, cause they never pick up as much as the customer thinks they will. Been proven over and over... The bigger MAF might help, but the stock one usually flows plenty for cars of this power level. However, looking at the logs, the KPA was pulling back into the 95 column at higher RPMs, indicating a restriction in front of the intake...
The biggest power robber on this particular car is the converter - but I'm afraid to lock it up to show the difference and break it on the dyno... I say run it at the track and see what it traps. Then maybe try an 85mm and see if we can pull some more out.
Every time one of these big intakes come in on a stock cube car, I hate it, cause they never pick up as much as the customer thinks they will. Been proven over and over... The bigger MAF might help, but the stock one usually flows plenty for cars of this power level. However, looking at the logs, the KPA was pulling back into the 95 column at higher RPMs, indicating a restriction in front of the intake...
The biggest power robber on this particular car is the converter - but I'm afraid to lock it up to show the difference and break it on the dyno... I say run it at the track and see what it traps. Then maybe try an 85mm and see if we can pull some more out.
I just wanted to post this up so people can see that the FAST intakes don't always gain big numbers. I hadn't seen many posts on here about that.
Also, to everyone else - take this as a lesson. Don't go with a converter unless it's one of the proven names. You may save a little money, but you sacrifice a lot of quality. I'll be switching from my Performabuilt 3600 to a Vigilante 3600 in the future.
I'd love to have your 60 time bro. My car doesn't really show her hand until the big end, and your car definately isn't bluffing off the line. If we were to race you most likely win the 1/4, but anything after that see ya. So now ask yourself what you built your car for ?? Did you want to be quick, or fast ?? I believe you wanted to be quick and you are bro, I wanted to be fast, and believe me 200 mph is fast !!
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So far I've run a 11.9 @ 113.5 with a 1.68 60 foot. There's more to be had in the 60 foot, that's for sure. I accidently staged reallllly deep that run. Next time I'm running lighter wheels, taking out the back seat, and I have this new intake setup with a couple more hp. I'd like to trap 115 before I spray.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Your 60 aint bad at all but judging from your mph something is wrong. 113 is what some full bolt ls1s trap at. Anyway I don't really have any advice for you but I just thought I would bring up your trap since you posted it earlier and everyone keeps saying numbers don't mean anything take it to the trap and see what it runs, i guess they missed your post earlier
I'm his tuner, and I can tell you it isn't in the tune! I spent a lot of time seeing what it wanted - ended up best with 12.8 AFR and 27* of timing. I tried richer, leaner, more timing and less... spent 2 hours trying to find more.
Every time one of these big intakes come in on a stock cube car, I hate it, cause they never pick up as much as the customer thinks they will. Been proven over and over... The bigger MAF might help, but the stock one usually flows plenty for cars of this power level. However, looking at the logs, the KPA was pulling back into the 95 column at higher RPMs, indicating a restriction in front of the intake...
The biggest power robber on this particular car is the converter - but I'm afraid to lock it up to show the difference and break it on the dyno... I say run it at the track and see what it traps. Then maybe try an 85mm and see if we can pull some more out.
Every time one of these big intakes come in on a stock cube car, I hate it, cause they never pick up as much as the customer thinks they will. Been proven over and over... The bigger MAF might help, but the stock one usually flows plenty for cars of this power level. However, looking at the logs, the KPA was pulling back into the 95 column at higher RPMs, indicating a restriction in front of the intake...
The biggest power robber on this particular car is the converter - but I'm afraid to lock it up to show the difference and break it on the dyno... I say run it at the track and see what it traps. Then maybe try an 85mm and see if we can pull some more out.
I would be curious about the converter efficiency. Have you log the engine rpm versus the trans input rpm? That will tell you the efficiency of the converter, if it is less then 80% it is the converter and would explain the low numbers. Also locking would reveal if it is the converter. The stock clutch (used in those smaller aftermarket converters) will take a run from 3000 to 6000 rpms if locked before going WOT. I have done it many times on different setups. Going WOT while it tries to lock is what kills the material. Just my suggestions.
Yeah but he is also cuttin' some 1.6 60'. Which aint bad really. Better than most street cars. That is naturally gonna take his mph down a bit. I've got a buddy with an '80 model Chevy pickup that ran 11.2's at only 115. So keep that in mind, too. MPH is not the name of the game on the strip but rather on the street.
just a fyi my 232/234 98 cam only car threw a ls7 clutch and a 9" with 3.90 only did 378hp 341tq a few weeks ago andthe cut out was open, but a few months ago only changes exhaust it put down 388 361. he said he thinks theres a problem with the load thing on the dyno
old exhaust was slp loudmouth II
new exhaust cut out and then a moroso sprial flow, then 2.75" pipe thats dumped over the axle
old exhaust was slp loudmouth II
new exhaust cut out and then a moroso sprial flow, then 2.75" pipe thats dumped over the axle
When you get there quicker, you don't trap as high - holds true in alot of automatics, but depends on the gearing and convertor...
I would be curious about the converter efficiency. Have you log the engine rpm versus the trans input rpm? That will tell you the efficiency of the converter, if it is less then 80% it is the converter and would explain the low numbers. Also locking would reveal if it is the converter. The stock clutch (used in those smaller aftermarket converters) will take a run from 3000 to 6000 rpms if locked before going WOT. I have done it many times on different setups. Going WOT while it tries to lock is what kills the material. Just my suggestions.
just a fyi my 232/234 98 cam only car threw a ls7 clutch and a 9" with 3.90 only did 378hp 341tq a few weeks ago andthe cut out was open, but a few months ago only changes exhaust it put down 388 361. he said he thinks theres a problem with the load thing on the dyno
old exhaust was slp loudmouth II
new exhaust cut out and then a moroso sprial flow, then 2.75" pipe thats dumped over the axle
old exhaust was slp loudmouth II
new exhaust cut out and then a moroso sprial flow, then 2.75" pipe thats dumped over the axle
It does seem like the dyno has been extra stingy lately!!! When things slow down this fall, I'm going to get the shop owner to send the load cell in to get refurbished or replaced, and get the dyno recalibrated.
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From: Western Burbs of Detroit
On another note, have you considered going with a little more cam in the future??
I think you are. I swapped out my ls6 for a fast92/92 and made 32rwhp and rwtq over my old setup
TECH Regular
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 450
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hey can someone explain why the converter will take power from him im kinda confused, its sounds like if you get an aftermarket converter it robes horsepower, i thought that changing you converter would help you because its lighter than the original converter...if someone would explain that would be awsome..thanks guys