hardcore street racers with full suspension, come in!
04-29-2009, 12:09 AM
#22
Yep. People make fun of frum rollers but when you have a lot of power that is the only way you can hook on the street sometimes
04-29-2009, 12:11 AM
#23
I have heard that the Nittos work well on the street with the irs in the cobras. F body guys hate them.
04-29-2009, 12:38 AM
#24
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i leave on the bottle on the street...
suspension: tubular non adj. arms, adj panhard, 2.5" drop springs, LCA relos
tires: MT ET Streets on 25lbs of air
you gotta learn to launch it...leave about 2000 or so and roll in in 1st gear...about half way through i stand in it and hang on.
went and ran some turbo'd hondas (350-400whp cars) on the interstate the other night...the ss did well with no bottle.
and...
ET Streets will hook...et street radials are ****...had to clarify that...bias ply isnt the best street tire, but if you want to hook on the street, they will...ive got over 1k miles on mine and they stil look new.
suspension: tubular non adj. arms, adj panhard, 2.5" drop springs, LCA relos
tires: MT ET Streets on 25lbs of air
you gotta learn to launch it...leave about 2000 or so and roll in in 1st gear...about half way through i stand in it and hang on.
went and ran some turbo'd hondas (350-400whp cars) on the interstate the other night...the ss did well with no bottle.
and...
there is your problem, et streets will not hook if you are making torque anywhere over 400rw. I say go Hoosiers or Nitto555r's Anything that hooks on the track is completely opposite on the street. Maybe look into some BFG Radials.
Last edited by Fury_786; 04-29-2009 at 12:45 AM.
04-29-2009, 08:37 AM
#25
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Take as much weight out the front as possible. Since there isn't any VHT on the street (well very few cases anyways) you add weight in the rear of the car over the axles. 2 50lbs plates would be a good start.
A heavier car can beat a lighter car on the street if the weight is in the right places.
-mark
A heavier car can beat a lighter car on the street if the weight is in the right places.
-mark
04-29-2009, 10:35 AM
#27
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What about liter bikes?
04-29-2009, 08:07 PM
#30
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i lied earlier about being able to hook up. Last year I could hook a hell of alot better then this year for some reason. ONly change was lowering it abit and adding an S60. same gear and BFG's, but it just spins em like mad!
04-29-2009, 11:15 PM
#31
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Lowering the car lowered your CG. You'll need a softer front end now to move the weight to the rear.
04-29-2009, 11:55 PM
#32
Take as much weight out the front as possible. Since there isn't any VHT on the street (well very few cases anyways) you add weight in the rear of the car over the axles. 2 50lbs plates would be a good start.
A heavier car can beat a lighter car on the street if the weight is in the right places.
-mark
A heavier car can beat a lighter car on the street if the weight is in the right places.
-mark
+1 filling up my gas tank, even one time last fall when it was getting cold out at night I put some boxes of car parts in the Top well. still have to be easy thu 1st but so I could hammer the 1-2 and not blow the tires away thu 2nd. The weight helped alot, with the normal stuff. No front sway, with drag shocks loose on the fornt. The normal weight reduction.
04-30-2009, 10:30 AM
#34
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last friday night i raced a p1sc mach 1 on 9lbs of boost, built long block. not sure of hp range but he is full weight with 2 10" subs in the trunk. he's on 17's with bfg dr's. well i'm your typical fbody with no rear seats and belts, no front bumper support, washer fluid tank, front sway bar, battery relocation, drag wheels front and back on 28's as said earlier and lightweight sunoco hood. he does good burnout, i do sucky one. barely spun over on the brake so i let off brake so that i could spin it out. not sure on his tire pressure but mine was on 10. left the shocks 2 on front and 10 on back. this is my setup for the track except i run 12lbs of pressure at the track. well being a mustang, you know they ask for the hit and i did. well my buds say he hooked up well and put 2 cars on me out the gate, but i still ran him down putting 1 and a 1/2 lengths on him(what he told me after the race). i have some 18's with 315/30 bfg's. he wants a rematch. but not sure if he wants the hit again or heads up. to be honest, these 18's arent that bad on the street. he will be surprised.
04-30-2009, 10:34 AM
#35
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a friend of my does a lot of street racing and he sets his all the way loose in the front and bout 5 or 6 in the back. i wonder by doing this though is my 28's will scrub bad? may have to use the 18's the rest of the night. our next race is next weekend.
04-30-2009, 02:33 PM
#36
I agree with roger... The et street cars i have seen NEVER hook on the street. Slicks dont get it done on the street. Et Radials work the best from what i have actually driven or rode in. 555r's work GREAT when your not over powering the tire. My 340hp 4.10 3800 stall car leaves at about 2700 on the street and i hook HARD.
Bitemark has the right idea. Weight off the front and Soft springs/shocks up front make all the difference in the world.
Mark do you remember meeting me at bradenton? me and matt with the yellow tt gt, we came from texas to race at dead hookers. We were with kelly (modularspeed)
Hay is that elky guy from fresno by any chance?
04-30-2009, 03:21 PM
#38
04-30-2009, 03:58 PM
#39
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to hook on the street you better have a bias ply.... just becuase it wont hook when you throw them on there doesnt mean the tires dont work... it means your car isnt setup to street race.... a car that races at the track and on street are different acting cars.