**Official 2014 Event: SRK "Loser eats Crow" Challenge**
03-27-2014, 01:56 PM
#761
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So the cars making 770whp but they can't get a clean pull because the tires are kicking off the rollers due to how the converter flashes. Can't lock the converter since it's a single disk. Cars at 20psi, .85 lambda and 20* of timing. Car is holding 20psi throughout the pull though with a flat afr and no knock. Should be fun.
03-27-2014, 02:03 PM
#763
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So the cars making 770whp but they can't get a clean pull because the tires are kicking off the rollers due to how the converter flashes. Can't lock the converter since it's a single disk. Cars at 20psi, .85 lambda and 20* of timing. Car is holding 20psi throughout the pull though with a flat afr and no knock. Should be fun.
03-27-2014, 02:45 PM
#764
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Should make some good passes. On 15psi and 14* of timing with the same afr and on the same dyno it made 735whp at 6200rpm but didn't spin. I'll take some crappy numbers as long as it's pushing 20psi, 20* of timing, and carrying boost to 6800rpm without knock. Auto's suck on the dyno anyway. 
Time to see what it does at the track 
Time to see what it does at the track
03-27-2014, 02:55 PM
#765
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RT IMO only matters at street racing or arm drop. For people going out looking for the best time, ET is all that matters. You got yourself and your RPMs right where you want them to be, have at it, and enjoy your better ET versus rushing yourself. This applies more so to FI cars than NA, obviously.
One can definitely get a good deal payment wise on a 2011+ 5.0 if that is what they were looking for due to them being so new and lenient loan terms. If I were in the market for a 5.0, I'd prefer a C/S, but that is just me with looks.
03-27-2014, 03:01 PM
#767
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03-27-2014, 03:06 PM
#769
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03-27-2014, 03:07 PM
#770
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Depending on the type of event, one can sit at the line and spool for 3 seconds if they please after the other car takes off and still win with a better ET.
RT IMO only matters at street racing or arm drop. For people going out looking for the best time, ET is all that matters. You got yourself and your RPMs right where you want them to be, have at it, and enjoy your better ET versus rushing yourself. This applies more so to FI cars than NA, obviously.
Sucks dude, but yeah, I found a few 2010 & 2011 3LT CGM A6 GSs for $36-$37k - hoping by the time I'm ready to buy they will drop a few more.
One can definitely get a good deal payment wise on a 2011+ 5.0 if that is what they were looking for due to them being so new and lenient loan terms. If I were in the market for a 5.0, I'd prefer a C/S, but that is just me with looks.
RT IMO only matters at street racing or arm drop. For people going out looking for the best time, ET is all that matters. You got yourself and your RPMs right where you want them to be, have at it, and enjoy your better ET versus rushing yourself. This applies more so to FI cars than NA, obviously.
Sucks dude, but yeah, I found a few 2010 & 2011 3LT CGM A6 GSs for $36-$37k - hoping by the time I'm ready to buy they will drop a few more.
One can definitely get a good deal payment wise on a 2011+ 5.0 if that is what they were looking for due to them being so new and lenient loan terms. If I were in the market for a 5.0, I'd prefer a C/S, but that is just me with looks.
On the street it can mean win or lose with a good/bad RT, but if a car has the power to overcome the RT it may not matter depending on how far your running.
Just my .02 cents
03-27-2014, 03:14 PM
#771
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I would have to politely disagree, i worked at a drag strip and RT is a lot of it. You live and die RT with Foot brake as well as heads up, I have seen cars run 5.90's and beat 5.70/5.80 cars all day with RT.
On the street it can mean win or lose with a good/bad RT, but if a car has the power to overcome the RT it may not matter depending on how far your running.
Just my .02 cents
On the street it can mean win or lose with a good/bad RT, but if a car has the power to overcome the RT it may not matter depending on how far your running.
Just my .02 cents
03-27-2014, 03:33 PM
#772
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Otherwise it means nothing for this competition.
03-27-2014, 03:37 PM
#773
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Sucks dude, but yeah, I found a few 2010 & 2011 3LT CGM A6 GSs for $36-$37k - hoping by the time I'm ready to buy they will drop a few more.
One can definitely get a good deal payment wise on a 2011+ 5.0 if that is what they were looking for due to them being so new and lenient loan terms. If I were in the market for a 5.0, I'd prefer a C/S, but that is just me with looks.
This is for a brand spankin new 2014 with 0 miles. Base 6 speed coupe with tech package in sterling gray.
03-27-2014, 03:41 PM
#775
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03-27-2014, 03:49 PM
#776
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I get bored with an auto, its just a street car.
03-28-2014, 03:12 PM
#778
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So the cars making 770whp but they can't get a clean pull because the tires are kicking off the rollers due to how the converter flashes. Can't lock the converter since it's a single disk. Cars at 20psi, .85 lambda and 20* of timing. Car is holding 20psi throughout the pull though with a flat afr and no knock. Should be fun.
03-28-2014, 05:29 PM
#779
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Billet specialties 15x10 rears with MT ET radials and 15x4 fronts with MT sportsmans
Attachment 725944
Attachment 725944
03-28-2014, 06:13 PM
#780
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So the cars making 770whp but they can't get a clean pull because the tires are kicking off the rollers due to how the converter flashes. Can't lock the converter since it's a single disk. Cars at 20psi, .85 lambda and 20* of timing. Car is holding 20psi throughout the pull though with a flat afr and no knock. Should be fun.