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Motor Build Forged 347

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Old 01-10-2010, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Reidonly
I blew up Dustin's bathroom while he, Bruce, and Lt. Dan slid the motor/subframe in and lifted it up. Damn Pizza Hut food... I at least left the fan on for ya Dustin.
Reid your a bad guy!!!! I hope Deb comes over and craps in your front seat.


Dam I thought Matt and I were having a rough time. You guys must have been wrenching with the Hustler DVD. Glad to hear its about done. Were going to have to go out and do some good highway burnouts in this beautiful air...

I am still waiting for that dam dvd!!! I hope its blu-ray!!!
Old 01-10-2010, 07:16 PM
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DON'T YOU WORRY MIKE... I'll bring her down to Bruce's next time and let him deliever it, it's been a LOOONNNGGG fucken day w/ Bruce & I's little NYC adventure. Hoped to work on the car, but I got all damn winter yet.

I hear that you and young Matthew were having some issues
Old 01-10-2010, 07:57 PM
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Oh shat!!!!!! I thought you guys were finnishing it today. So it was the ccw hunt today? LMAO!!!!!
Old 01-10-2010, 08:17 PM
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Yep hunting the elusive CCW, found em!!
Old 01-12-2010, 06:27 AM
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Lt Dan did good recommending Martins shop... what a place. i used to love getting woke up in the morning by the engine dyno screaming 7k rpms....
Old 01-12-2010, 07:41 AM
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Yea Marv is a great guy. Really nice guy to BS w/, and his shop is to die for.
Old 01-12-2010, 07:17 PM
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Ok some more pics.









Old 01-12-2010, 09:14 PM
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you bastard... you got a shirt... all i got was a damn sticker.....
Old 01-13-2010, 06:30 AM
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Looking good Dustin
Old 01-13-2010, 05:21 PM
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how much does it cost to build a forged motor? if you dont mind.
Old 01-13-2010, 06:50 PM
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well i did mine on a budget.

Here is a run down of what I put into it.

Block = $300 (used picked up on forum)
Pistons = $350 (the were used but it really good shape) Diamond -8.6cc
Rings = $150 (new Speed Inc)
Rods = $300 (used K1tech rods in good shape and had ARP bolts)
Heads = $350 (used picked up on forum)
Comp Lifters = $100 (new on forum)
Comp Cam = $400 (new from Speed Inc SC3 blower cam)
Various Gaskets = $250 (i had Zturd and Lt. Dan pick these up @ dealer cost for me)
Machine Shop = $1700 (Martin's did an awesome job, balanced the rotating assembly, line honed the block, bored it out for the pistons, checked all the clearances & assembled everything)

So all in all I spent around $4k for a long block ready to go. Probally missed something in my list of parts there & could only think of other **** that I bought. I already had an LS6 intake so that saved me another $300.

Plus I sold my old cam, heads, and some various other parts that I wasn't goin to need. So that helped pay for some of the stuff.
Old 01-14-2010, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by southpaw0314
how much does it cost to build a forged motor? if you dont mind.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...ock-402-a.html
Thats kind of a blanket statement. Here is something very budget but concern would be factory rods. And the pistons there is a lack of information in the type of alluminum that is used in the build. When you start tossing the quaters/dollars in the crap adds up fast. ARP head studs and rod bolts it adds up quick and it gets painful...

This is the stuff I like!!! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...k-special.html

Last edited by mikep2002; 01-14-2010 at 09:42 PM.
Old 01-15-2010, 04:51 AM
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MikeP is right, the little stuff is what gets painful.

I was just cruising the LS1tech & Corvetteforum for sale section everyday @ least 4-5 times a day to nab this stuff for a decent price.

But the ARP hardware, new Diamond rings, and stuff like that probally added up faster than some of the bigger parts.

For me the most painful was the gaskets even @ dealer cost. That just pisses me off when you have to pay $30-$40 for one gasket (oil pan). WTF
Old 01-23-2010, 06:23 PM
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Well.... It went kinda good today....

Fartpipe came over, we fucked around trying to get me stupid 02 sensors in, then I had the starter hooked up wrong, FINALLY!!! we cranked her!!!

No plugs, no injectors, just turned it over 5-6 times to get some oil built up.

Then we hooked everything up and fired her. Now I am totally new to speed density tuning so I was 80% i was goin to be way off. I did manage to get her to run for about 3-4mins straight.

The motor sounds REALLY REALLY good, no tapping or weird rattles, was smooth sounded and REV'd like a ****. Even Bruce said that thing would be way more wicked w/ the alum flywheel back on... good thing it's in my attic for the next clutch

MikeP is goin to hook me up w/ a tune so hopefully I can keep her running for more than a couple of mins. She just loads up and bogs out. So I am not quite sure what to do. I'll have to go over what MikeP has done and then start from there.

It's only Jan, & this project came together ALOT faster than I expected. I'll be sure to post up vid's and stuff when I get her running decent.
Old 01-23-2010, 06:34 PM
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Looks good Dustin, I guess I might have to start on my 416 project soon!
Old 01-23-2010, 07:07 PM
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Default Motor Build Forged 347

Originally Posted by mikep2002
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...ock-402-a.html
Thats kind of a blanket statement. Here is something very budget but concern would be factory rods. And the pistons there is a lack of information in the type of alluminum that is used in the build. When you start tossing the quaters/dollars in the crap adds up fast. ARP head studs and rod bolts it adds up quick and it gets painful...

This is the stuff I like!!! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...k-special.html
Nice write up

Not badd for a White guy lol

I have to agree with Mike P.

The pro builders that have an in house machine shop and buy parts in volume are hard to beat

Charlie's prices and Ls motor experience
are as good as it gets these days

This is the stuff I like!!! http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...k-special.html[/QUOTE]

Bon
Old 01-23-2010, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LS123
Looks good Dustin, I guess I might have to start on my 416 project soon!
Thanx Rick, sorry to not include you on the build but I have to give thanks for the advice and steam gaskets

It will all come together here soonand she'll be a nice little street sleeper.

You comin to OC car cruise Rick?
Old 01-24-2010, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by C5kid
Thanx Rick, sorry to not include you on the build but I have to give thanks for the advice and steam gaskets

It will all come together here soonand she'll be a nice little street sleeper.

You comin to OC car cruise Rick?
Oh, I didn't post becuase you didn't mentioned me. LOL

She will definately be a sleeper!

When is the OC cruise? I'm sure I can make it.
Old 01-26-2010, 06:11 AM
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OC car cruise is May 20-23.

So here is the latest update.

This past Sat, Fartpipe was over to help fire the car up. We pulled the plugs and the fuse for the fuel pump and cranked her 5-6 times to get some oil moving around the block.

Then we put everything back in and gave it another try. She fired for about 2 seconds & just died. Figured that there was still some air and what not in the fuel lines. Cranked & crank & cranked.... nothing....

So I worked the gas pedal alittle and then she atleast ran, alittle shakey but sounded ok for the most part. As soon as I let off the gas pedal it would just die.

So Fartpipe & I screwed around for the rest of the day trying to figure this out. Oh and all of this is w/ me running my first SD tune. So there is a fresh tune in the car, I figured that factored in some.

Sunday I started goin over the car again. I thought maybe I wasn't getting enough vacuum to the BOV and she was just getting choked on air. So I pulled the spring and plunger out. This helped but the car still would not run w/o me working the gas.

Now I threw old MAF tune back in and just turned of the SES light for the MAF.
BANG!!! she fired right up and held an idle. So I left the car run and get all the way up to temp. She sounds REAL good. No knocks, the valve train is really quite for a LS1, so the motor it's self is mechanical sound.

I left it idle for about 15-20 mins, to get all teh way up to temp and to also watch for any leaks. After that I shut her down and drained the oil quick. Oil looked just as clean as when I put it in. Cut the filter open and she didn't have any shavings or wierd stuff floating around in it.

So here is the problem, the car will run w/ the MAF tune installed. As soon as you put the SD tune in she just cranks. I was watching my logger and w/ the MAF tune the MAP sensor will read 100 kPA key on & when the car fires up it goes down to 43kPa (about 16in of vac) That makes sense. When I put the SD tune in the MAP reads 105kPa and when you go to fire it will read 202.83 kPa. WTF!?!?!??!?!?!?!?

I THINK it's the MAP sensor. I have Fartpipe getting me a new one today, GM #12580698. This will hopefully fix everything. And yes I did remember to put a 2Bar into teh car, I ran to AutoZone and bought a Baro sensor for a 05 Cobalt SS. Apprenatly this one is not working.
Old 01-27-2010, 08:19 PM
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Ok guys here is why I freaked out alittle. There is no way of telling the difference between the BW EC1613 & the GM 12580698

The left is the GM, middle is BW, right is stocker



I slapped the GM one in & BAMMM!!! she fired right up. Now I can start dialin' everything in.



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