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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:29 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DannoWS6
Your a decent 60" from mid 12's not bad.
Thats what i am thinking, the car wasnt weighed but I am willing to bet its at least 3700 with me in it, as is, no weight reduction. I got some plans, going to practice a bit more and get everything dialed in. If I can hit a 12.5-12.6 with a 1.8 60 on a bolt on car, thats a good day. If I can do it with out the benefit of a gear change, that be awesome. My best bud was doing mid 12 with the same mods except a 10 bolt and nitto's at 111mph (1 mph for the rear and he weighs less then me by at least 100 pounds, and its a z28 over a t/a).

If I use him as a bench mark, drive train loss is 1 mph, weight, 0.5-1 mph, and tire psi 1-1.5 mph I am not far behind his bench mark. Also mind you he powershifted for that mph, I dont so there is going to be some time and mph left on the table, but at least the tranny will survive, I just hope the clutch holds Lol
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:32 AM
  #22  
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Lower the tire PSI a little more and pull your spare/back seats and you will be there.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:50 AM
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aaron there's alot of things you can do to get weight out that you will never know was done, next time you are gonna go to the track let me know and some of the stuff can get done that week.


Honestly, a good clutch that will let ya launch the car at 5000 will probably do a ton of good, but I'd suggest getting the frame connectors on before you do that, so the car stays strait.


Knowing what my car weigh'ed when it was at the same stage, I'm gonna guess your raceweight was probably closer to 3800, that steel hood is heavier then a ws6 hood. That being said, the gear change will make even more of a difference for you because of the weight.... it helps get the car moving alot.

Lemme know when you're gonna go again, a tuesday night and I think there's about 50 lbs that can go away easy.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 08:24 AM
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Sounds good, I'll call yea tonight. I am still recovering from sun burn *ouch*
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 08:28 AM
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I was outside all afternoon yesterday, got a little but not too bad. Washed and cleaned the truck/subie, need to wax both still, maybe this week. I'll be home tonite, probably in the garage waxing one of the 2. Stop by if you're not up to anything.
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Old Apr 23, 2007 | 06:29 PM
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good times for just getting back into a car man
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by badpewter-z
good times for just getting back into a car man
Yea, except for a couple of street skirmishes I havent raced at the track since 2005 and thats when I was having a zillion issues with the LT1 383. So it was nice to get out there and see how its doing.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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mickey thompson drag radials here, put them at 16psi cold, burn the **** out of them and flash the converter. they DEAD hook every time. well, when the weather is above 36-40*. i was pulling high 1.5's when it was in the high 30's at atco and cecil both...

people over-analyze this **** too much. **** playing with the tire pressure all day... i actually just leave my mickeys at like 16-18psi cold and drive on them like that all the time.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sleeperstyle
mickey thompson drag radials here, put them at 16psi cold, burn the **** out of them and flash the converter. they DEAD hook every time. well, when the weather is above 36-40*. i was pulling high 1.5's when it was in the high 30's at atco and cecil both...

people over-analyze this **** too much. **** playing with the tire pressure all day... i actually just leave my mickeys at like 16-18psi cold and drive on them like that all the time.
Errr...He's got a stick car. That's what we've been talking about. Wake up in Philly. You got a cheese steak stuck in your ear?
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:25 PM
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16-18 is too low, its a radial, not a slick...... if I am bogging at 25-26psi, then do I need to take more air out?!

WJ, the track was slick in the right lane, a guy did wreck out in the first 1 hour or so. He rolled it a few times. I had forgotten to mention it. You were right.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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While we're at the tire discussion, and they are supposedly not for stick cars, what about auto cars leaving off a transbrake? I have to think that all the 7 and low 8 second cars running on these tires are leaving off a transbrake, I think that's about as hard a shock as a stock car dumping the clutch is......

How's that work out?
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
While we're at the tire discussion, and they are supposedly not for stick cars, what about auto cars leaving off a transbrake? I have to think that all the 7 and low 8 second cars running on these tires are leaving off a transbrake, I think that's about as hard a shock as a stock car dumping the clutch is......

How's that work out?
MT doesn't recommend them for t brake's either.
I used to run the 325 50 15's off the footbrake and my best 60' was a 1.41 on them.
I could not get them to hook off the t brake, they would just break loose.
I was talking to someone on here and they were hitting the bigger dr's with a transbrake and getting good results (1.2 60's I remember) but that was with the 30"s I think.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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intresting.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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I used them on a 6 speed car and managed to get pretty consistent 1.7s, dropping the clutch around 5k was the sweet spot, at 15-16 psi cold. I tried running them at 25 (street pressure I run them at) once, and blew away the tires. Experimented quite a bit with pressures and 15-16 was always the sweet spot.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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The big question is this, aside from a all out 28" tall slick, what drag radial out there puts out 60 foots better then M/T's I dont see any, I could be wrong but thats what I see a bad *** tire for a street car that sees the track.
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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Times look good to me.It was only the first time out and there are plenty of things to try.

Here is what worked on my setup's. Anywhere from 18-22lbs of air on the DR.Good smokey burnout with a rollout to the line(to suck rubber into the grooves) Launch at 5000rpm with a slip of the clutch to load the rear.By the time the clutch is fully engaged the gas peddle is planted on the floor.This has gotton me 1.60 60's in my Vette with Nitto's , 1.8's in F-body's with stock tires and 1.6's in the 3800lb firehawk with the tire's 1' high on 26x10 ET streets.

It takes time to find the sweet spot.But the trick is not to shock the tire and have the rpm's in the power range.

I'm sure your times are just going to get better as the year goes
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Times look good to me.It was only the first time out and there are plenty of things to try.

Here is what worked on my setup's. Anywhere from 18-22lbs of air on the DR.Good smokey burnout with a rollout to the line(to suck rubber into the grooves) Launch at 5000rpm with a slip of the clutch to load the rear.By the time the clutch is fully engaged the gas peddle is planted on the floor.This has gotton me 1.60 60's in my Vette with Nitto's , 1.8's in F-body's with stock tires and 1.6's in the 3800lb firehawk with the tire's 1' high on 26x10 ET streets.

It takes time to find the sweet spot.But the trick is not to shock the tire and have the rpm's in the power range.

I'm sure your times are just going to get better as the year goes
Sounds like a plan.... similar to what I try, just not at 5000rpm
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Old Apr 24, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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I use them they work fine although I do like the Nittos.

WJ
w/just adding 4.10's that car should run high 12.6's @ high 108-low 109's and high 1.6 sixty fts. Already been there/done that. You WILL spin the M/T radials w/the 4.10's, and on a hot day w/a little less track prep, you'll find out why they aren't made for stick cars....M/T says that themselves.
didn't you have a auto? you had 4-10's in that?
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 01:54 AM
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The tires definitely take some practice but you can get them to hook very nicely with the right technique. My first trip to the track with my 255/50/16s I kept experiment with clutch dumps at different rpms and would usually just spin like I was doing a burnout. Then I tried slipping the clutch very very quickly at different rpms and that's how you'll find the sweet spot with an m6. I've gotten both of my front heavy 17" chrome ZR1s off the ground with this technique launching at 4500 rpms. My best 60' so far was a 1.65 with sub-par track prep. With good prep I think I should be able to get just below a 1.6. This was all at 26 psi and 3660 raceweight.
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Old Apr 25, 2007 | 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
The big question is this, aside from a all out 28" tall slick, what drag radial out there puts out 60 foots better then M/T's I dont see any, I could be wrong but thats what I see a bad *** tire for a street car that sees the track.


The new goodyear drag radial that's out are supposedly very very good, Gary's got a set on his car that he will be testing this weekend at atco's nopi event. I'm waiting to hear back from him how they work, and I'll make my decision as to get those, or the m/t's once I hear from him.


fwiw there's alot of people that are into the 7's on the 275/60/15 size, which is equivalant to a 28x10x15 slick... m/t also makes their radial in the same exact size, so if gary doesn't like these at all I'll get those, but i won't pass judgment until I hear from him. Supposedly the goodyears are better, and last longer too.. but that's somewhat irrevelant. and I was surprised to see them only 30 bucks more a piece then the m/t's too, usually goodyear stuff is way way more, but 60 for a pair, and they supposedly last longer, doesn't seem bad at all.
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