The Kerminator Has Started - Idle clip inside
The Kerminator Has Started - Idle clip inside The beast is running. Got 2.5 gallons of high quality 93 octane in there right now just to burn off, get the oil temps up, etc.
Kerminator Idling
Oil pan had to be clearanced again, but that is done. Looks like I will be putting some 100 octane in tomorrow and hitting the dyno
Kerminator Idling
Oil pan had to be clearanced again, but that is done. Looks like I will be putting some 100 octane in tomorrow and hitting the dyno
Originally Posted by TTPMatt
The beast is running. Got 2.5 gallons of high quality 93 octane in there right now just to burn off, get the oil temps up, etc.
Kerminator Idling
Oil pan had to be clearanced again, but that is done. Looks like I will be putting some 100 octane in tomorrow and hitting the dyno
Kerminator Idling
Oil pan had to be clearanced again, but that is done. Looks like I will be putting some 100 octane in tomorrow and hitting the dyno
I was always told the rings need some time to seat, etc.
Lemme know when you decide to go to the track!!!!
Originally Posted by Mr. B
Sounds good Matt.. don't you have to put some miles on it before going WOT?
I was always told the rings need some time to seat, etc.
Lemme know when you decide to go to the track!!!!
I was always told the rings need some time to seat, etc.
Lemme know when you decide to go to the track!!!!
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Originally Posted by 1984camaroz28
mine went stright to the dyno @ eastside......
Here is what they recommend for maximum life and performance from your new engine combination:
- Add non-synthetic 5W30 to engine. Upon start up, allow engine to run at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes to allow valvetrain components to fully pump up. Have another person watching the gauges, specifically oil pressure. After the 2 minutes is up, allow engine to idle until it comes to operating temperature. Drive vehicle for a short 10-15 mile cruise to allow load on engine. Do not take motor past 3500rpm. Once back at the shop, drain oil and replace filter, again with non-synthetic 5W30. Put 500 miles on this round of oil, gradually taking engine higher in the rpm band, as miles are put on odometer. At 500 miles, again drain oil and replace filter. Add non-synthetic 5W30 and drive vehicle for another 500 miles. At this time, if you prefer to run Synthetic oils, you may add them now (1000miles). This has given the rings ample time to seat into the cylinder properly.
mine went stright to the dyno @ eastside......
Bob this point has been argued numerous times actually. The best procedure that I have found is the following (Have not had any problems with any of our motors that are running for tens of thousands of miles).
When ready to start. Disconnect coil packs so you get no spark. Crank over for 3-5 seconds, do this once or twice, to get the oil travelling to the upper valvetrain, lifters, etc. We use 10w40 oil to start all of these cars, then we start it up and let it run for a while, usually holding a steady rev around 2k rpms for a bit to allow for better oil travel up through the lifters. On a street car, I will dump in a 'safe' tune and I will usually get the part throttle tune done within 20-30 miles of initial startup. THen we change the oil again still conventional 10w40. Then we hit the dyno. We bring the car up in the 1:1 gear to get some load on her, then gradually bring the revs up to 5000rpm and let the car decel all the way back down to idle in gear (With load). We do this about 4-5 times, then let for a cooldown period. Then we make our dyno passes and put the initial rich tune into the car. After the customer drives for about 300-500 miles we change the oil to whatever conventional is preferred (5w30 or 10w40) for the time of year, etc.
In the case of my car... We are fixing an oil leak this morning, then driving it out of the shop to my back door onto the dyno, then doing 4-5 5000rpm slow rev decel passes.. Then all hell breaks loose
Hopefully I will be at ETOWN TONIGHT.
- Matt
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: East Side Performance! mASShole
fire it up crank up the rpms to 2000-2500 hold it for a couple minits. give it a couple rev's, let it idle for a min or so, rev it up 2k again.
throw it on the dyno, run it threw the gears a tad.
then i change the oil, let the car cool.
fire it back up to temp, and kick its ***!!!!
throw it on the dyno, run it threw the gears a tad.
then i change the oil, let the car cool.
fire it back up to temp, and kick its ***!!!!
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 1
From: East Side Performance! mASShole
Originally Posted by TTPMatt
502rwhp sae th350. Converter has gone to **** its stalling around 6000 now. I need to bump it down to the 42-45 range probably because the motor makes some nice tq.
nice power tho for sure.
Originally Posted by Noyzee
yup, as soon as you put alot of power and tq to those verts, they blow right threw.
nice power tho for sure.
nice power tho for sure.