Clutch question?
Originally Posted by lilstephsls1
Don, this happened before when I was at the track with you. Just because it welded like that, do you suggest getting a new clutch? I thought it would be toast. I mean, I've had no problems what so ever since that one time until this weekend. And I did not change it last year, it is still the same clutch you put in. Maybe we will just take it out and see what it looks like, since I do believe the flywheel will need to be refinished.
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
I was under the inpression you sent that back when we rebuilt the tranny? If not,then yes it is from the last time.More than likely there is still clutch material welded to the flywheel that atleast has to get sanded off.
Bought a 3+ today
Now on to new tires
Oh, and I contacted SLP to get that TCS reversal thing, and they said they don't make them for a 98 because it is different? WTF? Was this guy just an idiot or do they not make them for 98's?
its probably incredibly obvious, what Im about to say, but I will say it anyway.
Get a CARTEK clutch. You are close enough to have them install it. You will love it. Just cant argue with its results.
Get a CARTEK clutch. You are close enough to have them install it. You will love it. Just cant argue with its results.
Originally Posted by WS6TransAm01
its probably incredibly obvious, what Im about to say, but I will say it anyway.
Get a CARTEK clutch. You are close enough to have them install it. You will love it. Just cant argue with its results.
Get a CARTEK clutch. You are close enough to have them install it. You will love it. Just cant argue with its results.
As said before, I've seen alot of welded clutches
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Originally Posted by lilstephsls1
Yes I use line lock.
Did I ever say it wasn't user error? I thought I kind of made that clear my second post. I am fully aware that it doesn't just weld like that. If I didn't make that point clear enough: THIS CLUTCH WELDED BECAUSE OF MY ERROR IN DOING A BURNOUT. When I did the burnout, I reved the car to the point that it hit rev limiter, I let off the gas TOO MUCH (my error), the tires started to hook and the car started to bogg, I pulled out and it was stuck. I can see where you misinterpreted me. I meant to say I remember others saying they had the problem with the 3 before with it welding, and I remember Don saying when SPEC came out with the 3+ that SPEC said the new tech in the clutch should make it less common for them to weld. This again, was 2 years ago.
Anyway, I am going to have the flywheel refinished.
Don, this happened before when I was at the track with you. Just because it welded like that, do you suggest getting a new clutch? I thought it would be toast. I mean, I've had no problems what so ever since that one time until this weekend. And I did not change it last year, it is still the same clutch you put in. Maybe we will just take it out and see what it looks like, since I do believe the flywheel will need to be refinished.
Did I ever say it wasn't user error? I thought I kind of made that clear my second post. I am fully aware that it doesn't just weld like that. If I didn't make that point clear enough: THIS CLUTCH WELDED BECAUSE OF MY ERROR IN DOING A BURNOUT. When I did the burnout, I reved the car to the point that it hit rev limiter, I let off the gas TOO MUCH (my error), the tires started to hook and the car started to bogg, I pulled out and it was stuck. I can see where you misinterpreted me. I meant to say I remember others saying they had the problem with the 3 before with it welding, and I remember Don saying when SPEC came out with the 3+ that SPEC said the new tech in the clutch should make it less common for them to weld. This again, was 2 years ago.
Anyway, I am going to have the flywheel refinished.
Don, this happened before when I was at the track with you. Just because it welded like that, do you suggest getting a new clutch? I thought it would be toast. I mean, I've had no problems what so ever since that one time until this weekend. And I did not change it last year, it is still the same clutch you put in. Maybe we will just take it out and see what it looks like, since I do believe the flywheel will need to be refinished.
Everyone's got good and bad stories about every clutch, its hard to find one universally liked. FWIW, I've had great success with my Textralia OZ700, it always grabs great, and the street manners are way nicer than the on/off switch that was my Spec 3. Much more stock-like slipping ability.
Last edited by NHRATA01; Jun 19, 2007 at 08:36 PM.
I have a spec 3 in my car. I have never had any problems with it. I drive it on the street, and abuse it at the track. It still holds. I have heard some horror stories about the spec clutches coming apart and exploding through the bell housing. But I am more than happy with mine. I think I have about 8 or 9k on it now. It never chattered or slipped at all. Good luck with your new clutch.
rob
rob
I have a friend who will be getting a spec 2 or +2, he doesnt make the ft lbs even with heads and cam to go back to the spec 3 which he fried in 8k miles, which is mostly due to riding it like a stocker, even when racing.
I am in the market, but at least I can hang back and watch and see how he does with the clutch. Chef and his brother has a 3+ which seems to hold well on street and strip use.
Good luck with the 3+ ill be waiting to hear a review.
I am in the market, but at least I can hang back and watch and see how he does with the clutch. Chef and his brother has a 3+ which seems to hold well on street and strip use.
Good luck with the 3+ ill be waiting to hear a review.
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
I have one of them at the shop that we used a sledge hammer to get it off the flywheel. = welded.
As said before, I've seen alot of welded clutches
As said before, I've seen alot of welded clutches
Funny how my 7000rpm launches, 1.4 60's, and continues powershifts never did anything even close to that...
Originally Posted by lilstephsls1
I already bought a spec 3+, and my hub can do my clutch install for free, so why pay someone to do it?
I may be missing something, but if your first Spec failed, why get another one?
Originally Posted by WS6TransAm01
Oh I did not know you already bought a new one.
I may be missing something, but if your first Spec failed, why get another one?
I may be missing something, but if your first Spec failed, why get another one?
Originally Posted by NHRATA01
Steph, don't be too hard on yourself, I welded my Spec 3 X-pad, and I'm pretty certain it wasn't user error. Did a regular burnout, no TCS on or anything, was well in the water box. Clutch worked fine, pulled up to the line, dropped it at only around 4-5k, and couldn't get it into any gear after first. Drove 80 miles home rev matching, and having to turn the car off at stops. Ended up breaking loose in the driveway with a nice SNAP while I was moving the car around to drop the trans. FWIW, from reading in the Manual trans section of the board at the time (2 years ago), the Spec 3s seemed to be awfully suceptible to the problem. And not from noobies, but from some pretty well traveled LS1 racers. Spec was even aware of the problem, and suggested to have people rock the car back and forth in 4th gear while holding down the clutch to break the disc loose.The 4s and 5s seemed just fine though.
Everyone's got good and bad stories about every clutch, its hard to find one universally liked. FWIW, I've had great success with my Textralia OZ700, it always grabs great, and the street manners are way nicer than the on/off switch that was my Spec 3. Much more stock-like slipping ability.
Everyone's got good and bad stories about every clutch, its hard to find one universally liked. FWIW, I've had great success with my Textralia OZ700, it always grabs great, and the street manners are way nicer than the on/off switch that was my Spec 3. Much more stock-like slipping ability.
Last edited by lilstephsls1; Jun 20, 2007 at 04:56 PM.