View Poll Results: switching to a auto
go to a th400
22
78.57%
keep the t56
6
21.43%
Voters: 28. You may not vote on this poll
Going to a Th400
if the car is purely for pleasur driving and track fun, i would suggest a powerglide. can be built jut as strong as the TH400, but weighs much less and has about half the internal drag.
don't worry about the people who say you need a ton of power or a ton of gear to use a glide. from your sig i can see you have plenty of power and you would still want to choose your rear gear the same way as with any other trans, what ever gear allows you to run 300-500rpm past peak power when you cross the line. just throw a good TC that matches the torque curve and you will be setting new bests in no time.
don't worry about the people who say you need a ton of power or a ton of gear to use a glide. from your sig i can see you have plenty of power and you would still want to choose your rear gear the same way as with any other trans, what ever gear allows you to run 300-500rpm past peak power when you cross the line. just throw a good TC that matches the torque curve and you will be setting new bests in no time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 845
Likes: 9
From: Eastern Ma/ PSL florida
Yes a lot of you who know me, know I havent been to the track alot. The main reason is one like a lot of people that have responded I also do not have the time and or money to be replacing a clutch every year or two. And two Lauching the thing when I do street race or race at the track is nearly impossible and unless I slip the clutch outta the whole then I just hook and bog or I spin. If I do slip the clutch then Iam looking at another clutch which is just wasting my money. And yes you guys are right the car screws when roll racing. From a dig it sucks. Plus the only way Iam really going to be able to do this is if I can sell my 6speed setup. I guess we will just have to wait and see.
Oh yeah your right Don. I lost a huge street race for a couple grand. LOL. No but seriously I will talk to ya when you get back from vacation. Thats if your not disgusted with me. LOL
Oh yeah your right Don. I lost a huge street race for a couple grand. LOL. No but seriously I will talk to ya when you get back from vacation. Thats if your not disgusted with me. LOL
well re-reading your sig, i'd bet you gain a full second or even more (on spray) if you went with a stalled auto. easily .5 in the 60' alone! that could make somebody want to switch 
if you are worried about driving down the highway but you still want to go auto + transbrake, a 200-4r is always an option. they are a bit pricey to build, but can easily be done up to handle big HP. and with a .67 overdrive gear you can run big gears and still get down the highway and cruise around pretty good.
the 200-4r has the same overall case length and output spline as the th350 and can be built to have only a little bit more internal drag than a powerglide. pretty much delivering the best of both worlds.
check out these guys, they do great work and build the best 200's i have found. http://www.dynotechperformance.com/
the 200-4r has the same overall case length and output spline as the th350 and can be built to have only a little bit more internal drag than a powerglide. pretty much delivering the best of both worlds.
check out these guys, they do great work and build the best 200's i have found. http://www.dynotechperformance.com/
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 845
Likes: 9
From: Eastern Ma/ PSL florida
Originally Posted by NJSPDER
if you are worried about driving down the highway but you still want to go auto + transbrake, a 200-4r is always an option. they are a bit pricey to build, but can easily be done up to handle big HP. and with a .67 overdrive gear you can run big gears and still get down the highway and cruise around pretty good.
the 200-4r has the same overall case length and output spline as the th350 and can be built to have only a little bit more internal drag than a powerglide. pretty much delivering the best of both worlds.
check out these guys, they do great work and build the best 200's i have found. http://www.dynotechperformance.com/
the 200-4r has the same overall case length and output spline as the th350 and can be built to have only a little bit more internal drag than a powerglide. pretty much delivering the best of both worlds.
check out these guys, they do great work and build the best 200's i have found. http://www.dynotechperformance.com/
Thanks man for the info. I read a artical in one of my mags about building a 2004R for a GN and they said it would handle the power without any problems. Not too worried though about the gas milage thing.
And yes I would probably gain at least .5 outta the auto. I talked to Btlefedss on hear about the swap he just did and he was very happy with it. Like I said before it really depends on if someone will buy my 6speed setup (hint, hint) and If I can find someone to help me with the swap or do it for me. (HINT, HINT)
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
justin - look into this, he needs a lt1 t56 (dont know if the ls1 t56 is any different) and he's local.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-members/738709-wtb-lt1-t56-clutch.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-members/738709-wtb-lt1-t56-clutch.html
I did the swap last year and can give you some info... #1 you will have no problem selling a working T56 setup, I sold mine soup to nuts, the whole things, clutch (still good) console, shifter (pro 5.0) stock and a steel afermarket driveshaft, tranny, bellhousing, hydraulics, everythign for 2300 bucks, and had NO problems gettign that for it. Granted it was a 16 K ranny setup, but still, I'd think 2000 for all of it would be no problem.
Now, the Th400, if you like to drive on the street alot, and are not a huge rack guy can still be a viable option, but a couple things will have to be understood. If you want the car to be 100% track, the converter/gearing will not be street friendly. Full race gearing and a race converer that will stall in the 4500+ range for your setup on the highway will suck if you have to go more then about 20 miles at a time, ask me how I know. However, if you want it to be a street type setup, you can do it. regardless track or street setup get a 28 inch tall tire on the car, the traction bonus and tire height will only help. A track converter would be in the 4500 range, for a more street type setup, look into a converter that will stall up in the 3500 range, will drive around alot better with that, and with a 3.42 gear on the street, it will behave rather well IMO.
Now, the Th400, if you like to drive on the street alot, and are not a huge rack guy can still be a viable option, but a couple things will have to be understood. If you want the car to be 100% track, the converter/gearing will not be street friendly. Full race gearing and a race converer that will stall in the 4500+ range for your setup on the highway will suck if you have to go more then about 20 miles at a time, ask me how I know. However, if you want it to be a street type setup, you can do it. regardless track or street setup get a 28 inch tall tire on the car, the traction bonus and tire height will only help. A track converter would be in the 4500 range, for a more street type setup, look into a converter that will stall up in the 3500 range, will drive around alot better with that, and with a 3.42 gear on the street, it will behave rather well IMO.
F-body clutch swap is just as easy! Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 845
Likes: 9
From: Eastern Ma/ PSL florida
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I did the swap last year and can give you some info... #1 you will have no problem selling a working T56 setup, I sold mine soup to nuts, the whole things, clutch (still good) console, shifter (pro 5.0) stock and a steel afermarket driveshaft, tranny, bellhousing, hydraulics, everythign for 2300 bucks, and had NO problems gettign that for it. Granted it was a 16 K ranny setup, but still, I'd think 2000 for all of it would be no problem.
Now, the Th400, if you like to drive on the street alot, and are not a huge rack guy can still be a viable option, but a couple things will have to be understood. If you want the car to be 100% track, the converter/gearing will not be street friendly. Full race gearing and a race converer that will stall in the 4500+ range for your setup on the highway will suck if you have to go more then about 20 miles at a time, ask me how I know. However, if you want it to be a street type setup, you can do it. regardless track or street setup get a 28 inch tall tire on the car, the traction bonus and tire height will only help. A track converter would be in the 4500 range, for a more street type setup, look into a converter that will stall up in the 3500 range, will drive around alot better with that, and with a 3.42 gear on the street, it will behave rather well IMO.
Now, the Th400, if you like to drive on the street alot, and are not a huge rack guy can still be a viable option, but a couple things will have to be understood. If you want the car to be 100% track, the converter/gearing will not be street friendly. Full race gearing and a race converer that will stall in the 4500+ range for your setup on the highway will suck if you have to go more then about 20 miles at a time, ask me how I know. However, if you want it to be a street type setup, you can do it. regardless track or street setup get a 28 inch tall tire on the car, the traction bonus and tire height will only help. A track converter would be in the 4500 range, for a more street type setup, look into a converter that will stall up in the 3500 range, will drive around alot better with that, and with a 3.42 gear on the street, it will behave rather well IMO.
Thanks for the info. Yeah Iam looking into more of a streetable setup. Just like you said something in the 3000 to 3500 range for the converter. My 6speed was just fully built last year by slowhawk so the thing is still mint. The ls7 clutch is still in pretty good shape along with the hydralics. So getting some money for it shouldnt be too much of a problem.
Mine has a 3800 stall and will have 3.73s in it. I'll let you know how it drives on the street but it should be fine. My friend has a 408, TH400 with the same stall, same gears, etc. runs 10's NA and low 9's on the bottle and cruises his around on the street just fine.
Originally Posted by Justins00ss
Now about the 28" inch tire. What size would that roughly be. Right now on my prostars I have 275/50/15. Would they fit without rubbing??
Originally Posted by Slowhawk
For what you do with your car,the fact it will need a motor soon.I think it's a dumb idea to switch tranny's at this time.
LS1TECH Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 0
From: I'm glad one of us finds this amusing...
Originally Posted by DarkSideSS
i'd listen to don on this one if your car has over 100k on it and you're spraying it on a regular basis i'd be saving the extra loot for a shortblock then after that's done worry about a tranny swap.
I've known Don long enough that when he warns people about this stuff, 99.9% of the time it happens!! 
I wouldn't chance it, unless you already have money for a tranny, tranny swap, motor, and motor swap. well, nobody mentioned either but you are also gonna have to make a choice if you want your car to run fast on motor, fast on spray but slower on motor, or not to full potential on either motor or spray but still quick on both.
you want a fast motor car= shitty drivability.
you want a fast car on spray= slow on motor (annoyingly slow on motor- trust me
--- 10.7 @ 125mph w/ 1.55 short time on tnt 150 shot ---12.1 @ 112mph 1.7X short time on motor , on the same day... )
you want both= doesn't work that way
in my HONEST OPINION- a 346 ls1 just isn't enough motor really for a th400. it has to be either a REALLY aggressive heads/cam package with big stall, forced induction or spray.
you want a fast motor car= shitty drivability.
you want a fast car on spray= slow on motor (annoyingly slow on motor- trust me
--- 10.7 @ 125mph w/ 1.55 short time on tnt 150 shot ---12.1 @ 112mph 1.7X short time on motor , on the same day... ) you want both= doesn't work that way
in my HONEST OPINION- a 346 ls1 just isn't enough motor really for a th400. it has to be either a REALLY aggressive heads/cam package with big stall, forced induction or spray.