Were you racing when it went? 
Blown Engine, Pic's.
I am still undecided if I am going to rebuild or do a complete part out. As of right now I am pretty sure the crank and all the rods are alright, so all I would need to do is get a machined block and a set of pistons.
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Damn man... Just as things were all coming together too right? Sorry to hear of the misfortune. Good luck deciding on what to do. I know it's a tough decision at this point to either part out and sell or spend and keep the project going!
Makes you want to
doesn't it?
Makes you want to
doesn't it? Last edited by Speedy0009; Jul 20, 2007 at 12:09 AM.
Listen, it's not really as bad as it looks. We're ALWAYS seeking ways to lighten up the valvetrain, gain a little more rpm and cooling inside the motor etc.
Well, there ya go.
All kidding aside though, sorry about the blown motors above.
Well, there ya go.
All kidding aside though, sorry about the blown motors above.
That head may be repairable..... I've seen an AFR head that had a damn valley melted in it connecting 2 cylinders, and it was repaired and is on a car running, and it's fast...... get that head to someone that can repair alum. heads, it may save you a good bit of $.
I'd guess the crank and rods are probably ok., but have them checked anyway to be safe. Cam and all that may still be o.k. too, may just be like you think, a set of pistons and a block.
I'd guess the crank and rods are probably ok., but have them checked anyway to be safe. Cam and all that may still be o.k. too, may just be like you think, a set of pistons and a block.
Sorry to hear man. That's some real bad news. You think it was just a fluke thing? Were those the valves that came with the heads assembled? I mean I've heard of a rocker arm failing or a spring breaking, thus dropping the valve, but for it to break just like that is weird. I've only heard those horror stories with not enough pvc or too much HP.
Those heads might be repairable, it's the crack where the valve protrudes and how it's warped that might be tough.
Those heads might be repairable, it's the crack where the valve protrudes and how it's warped that might be tough.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
That head may be repairable..... I've seen an AFR head that had a damn valley melted in it connecting 2 cylinders, and it was repaired and is on a car running, and it's fast...... get that head to someone that can repair alum. heads, it may save you a good bit of $.
I'd guess the crank and rods are probably ok., but have them checked anyway to be safe. Cam and all that may still be o.k. too, may just be like you think, a set of pistons and a block.
I'd guess the crank and rods are probably ok., but have them checked anyway to be safe. Cam and all that may still be o.k. too, may just be like you think, a set of pistons and a block.
As for the heads even if they can be fixed I will sell them and buy a new set. The 205's made good power on the 402 even though the were the wrong bore size but with the bigger cubes I would like to get the most out of this setup.
Looking at the valve guide/seat, they got really beat up and I would think there would be some machining work to fix it beyond what is already visable. The best of luck either way Gary
A place like Pat Musi's shop could probably fix that head, and you could always have them CNC'd to a bigger size..... but do what you feel comfortable with.
Out of curiosity, what valve springs were on the motor and how big was the cam, and how many miles were on the valvesprings? Did you allow the car to warm up before driving it every time also? I just saw another motor do something similar, and I am curious if there is any chance the causes were similar.
Out of curiosity, what valve springs were on the motor and how big was the cam, and how many miles were on the valvesprings? Did you allow the car to warm up before driving it every time also? I just saw another motor do something similar, and I am curious if there is any chance the causes were similar.
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
A place like Pat Musi's shop could probably fix that head, and you could always have them CNC'd to a bigger size..... but do what you feel comfortable with.
Out of curiosity, what valve springs were on the motor and how big was the cam, and how many miles were on the valvesprings? Did you allow the car to warm up before driving it every time also? I just saw another motor do something similar, and I am curious if there is any chance the causes were similar.
Out of curiosity, what valve springs were on the motor and how big was the cam, and how many miles were on the valvesprings? Did you allow the car to warm up before driving it every time also? I just saw another motor do something similar, and I am curious if there is any chance the causes were similar.
I bought the heads through tsp with the patriot gold springs on them. There was about 10,000 miles on them and I always let the car warm up before driving it. The spring on the valve that let go is still in one piece and the stem is still connected to it. The cam specs are 242/244 612/614 112.