Need to decide on a rear end, opinion's...
01-09-2008, 04:42 PM
#21
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I have a strange just like you want and I would never buy one again I have busted mine more times then I can count already I am gonna be putting in a spool and the next time it breaks it is going to scrap metal. I would go with a 9 inch wich is cheaper in some cases also. check out epp they have good deals.
01-09-2008, 04:51 PM
#22
I have a strange just like you want and I would never buy one again I have busted mine more times then I can count already I am gonna be putting in a spool and the next time it breaks it is going to scrap metal. I would go with a 9 inch wich is cheaper in some cases also. check out epp they have good deals.
01-09-2008, 04:52 PM
#23
If you are interested I might be selling my mosler 12bolt. It has about 1k miles on it. Its a tru-track, 3 channel, 4.10's, fullu painted with POR15, upgraded axles and diff cover etc. I mostly autox and really want to get a Torsen T2R diff, they only make it for the 10bolt and 9in. let me know if you are interested
01-09-2008, 04:59 PM
#24
Yeah it had the hd eaton posi with 33 spline axles yada yada t/a girdle all of the goodies lol. First was the universal they supplied wich is no biggie I guess. Next was the spider gear in the posi. and now it sounds like the posi again but I am unsure exactly right now and I think the axle might be bentl slightly but won't know till I feel like cleaning the garage and taking it apart lol. I wouldn't waste my money again but I am a 6 speed wich makes a difference but if I was to do it again it would be the way I know won't break.
01-09-2008, 05:07 PM
#25
Letting go of a transbrake with a converter that goes to 5400 is a little on the violent side, and my moser is still trucking along fine.
I will be taking it apart for a gear change and to go to a spool in the near future, when it's apart I'll give an update to how it looks. Not once have I ever changed the fluid in it since it went in the car in 2005, and it's goten probably 7000 miles and 75 runs at the track, 4 in the 9's probably 45 in the 10's and the rest @ mid 12's, and it's always had a drag radial/slick on the car.
I will be taking it apart for a gear change and to go to a spool in the near future, when it's apart I'll give an update to how it looks. Not once have I ever changed the fluid in it since it went in the car in 2005, and it's goten probably 7000 miles and 75 runs at the track, 4 in the 9's probably 45 in the 10's and the rest @ mid 12's, and it's always had a drag radial/slick on the car.
01-10-2008, 07:06 AM
#29
Just curious, when you double checked it did you have to make any adjustments? I like the Moser rears, but I don't like the stories about the torque arm bolts always falling out and excess gear noise. If I got a significantly better deal on a Moser unit I might be tempted.
01-10-2008, 08:20 AM
#30
The TQ arm mounting does leave something to be desired, due to the fact when a Aftermarket TQ is inplace, actually this has to do with BMR TQ arms to be exact.
Those units have 2 sets of bolt holes to begin with, and the metal is thick ontop of it. The Bolts supplied with the 12 bolt are not 2 straight through bolts but rather 4 shorter bolts and coupled with the thickness of the flange of the TQ arm and the length of the bolt, you do not get as many threads into the rear as many would like.
On top of that people do not chase the threads and use enough Loctite to keep it on there. Also periodically checking the bolts is a must. Mine have been PERFECT and they were done in the summer of 2005.
One other thing that had to be done with BMR TQ arms (not sure on others) is that the TQ arm had to be cut so it would fit properly, the TQ was pushed out so far it was hitting the rear driverside seat belt bolts and popping pretty badly on it, We removed it and there is more then enough meterial to keep it strong.
Just a couple bits of info to help you, this is from my personal exp.
Those units have 2 sets of bolt holes to begin with, and the metal is thick ontop of it. The Bolts supplied with the 12 bolt are not 2 straight through bolts but rather 4 shorter bolts and coupled with the thickness of the flange of the TQ arm and the length of the bolt, you do not get as many threads into the rear as many would like.
On top of that people do not chase the threads and use enough Loctite to keep it on there. Also periodically checking the bolts is a must. Mine have been PERFECT and they were done in the summer of 2005.
One other thing that had to be done with BMR TQ arms (not sure on others) is that the TQ arm had to be cut so it would fit properly, the TQ was pushed out so far it was hitting the rear driverside seat belt bolts and popping pretty badly on it, We removed it and there is more then enough meterial to keep it strong.
Just a couple bits of info to help you, this is from my personal exp.
01-10-2008, 11:44 AM
#31
If the tq arm hits the floor, don't worry it will clearance itself after a couple hard launches LOL.
All that aside the thing you have to make sure you do is tighten the fuggin bolts really good, use loctite, and if you're really REALLY worried about it, drill a hole and safety wire the bolts too. Personally I didn't go that car with it, but I did crank them TIGHT, and I do check them on a regular basis.
Every time you change the oil in the car, what ya really need to do is put the car up in the air either on jackstands or whatever, let the rear hang and just go under the car and check them. It takes 15 extra minutes to do it, and IMO if you do that, along with doing it before every track trip (which ya probably change the oil before anyway) I see no reason you should ever have a problem.
All that aside the thing you have to make sure you do is tighten the fuggin bolts really good, use loctite, and if you're really REALLY worried about it, drill a hole and safety wire the bolts too. Personally I didn't go that car with it, but I did crank them TIGHT, and I do check them on a regular basis.
Every time you change the oil in the car, what ya really need to do is put the car up in the air either on jackstands or whatever, let the rear hang and just go under the car and check them. It takes 15 extra minutes to do it, and IMO if you do that, along with doing it before every track trip (which ya probably change the oil before anyway) I see no reason you should ever have a problem.
01-10-2008, 09:39 PM
#32
Well i put the bmr xtreme duty in mine Danno.. I clearanced the bracket as stated to move it tighter in for floor clearance, and put the 4 bolts in with loctite and haven't had an issue yet.. But im one of those people that checks everyone bolt at every oil change anyways or before every track outing. I found the bolts to thread in substantially for me, im more than comfortable with it. I haven't driven it much with the new torque arm but it definitely added a lot of abnormal noises.. tolerable to me though
