My car manned the F*ck Up today! New PB!
#41
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
compression most certainly has something to do with it.
When I put the heads on my stock motor the compression got bumped up alot, and the car got alot louder, and that had the cats on it at the time.
You go from stock 10-1 to 12-1 you'll hear a big difference. GO up in CI, you hear a difference. GO up on compression and CI, you really notice it.
When I put the heads on my stock motor the compression got bumped up alot, and the car got alot louder, and that had the cats on it at the time.
You go from stock 10-1 to 12-1 you'll hear a big difference. GO up in CI, you hear a difference. GO up on compression and CI, you really notice it.
#43
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
Jay, I hear what you're saying about the volume of the car changing with a bump in CI or compression, but I think what they were discussing is whether there a drastic change in the tone of the exhaust when that happens. Is that the case when you make this change?
#45
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The Car is running.... and the back is facing the rear of the garage
JL: Hey BSMachine, can go to the back of the Garage and get that Nitrous Bottle?
BSMachine: Sure!
JL: {Gets into Car}
BSMachine: {Looking for the Bottle}
JL: {Whacks the Throttle}
BSMachine: {Shopping for Hearing Aids the next week}
#50
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
At the power level that car is probably not, honestly there's guys running in the 5.5 range to the 1/8th on 8.5 inch wide slicks, that's about 8.50 in the 1/4 for referance. A bigger tire would help consistancey, but that's about it.
Is it easy, hell no but it can be done.
Is it easy, hell no but it can be done.
#53
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jay, I said that the higher compression probably wouldn't hurt the sound, not that it wouldn't change it. From what I've seen a bump in compression will make it sound better (unless that LT1 was about the only car that sounded worse after).
#56
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Finally. I do have a REAL update on the car. Been going to life changing stuff and the car is not the priority but due to making some deals and finding steals I will be able to finally get back to the track. Will be looking for a -1000 DA Rental Day @ Atco.
Since this post I have.....
Installed
QA1 R Series Front Shocks w/ 315# Springs
QA1 10 Way Rear Shocks Stock NON WS.6 Springs
UMI TQ arm Relocation Cross Member with Poly Trans Mount
UMI Rear Sway Drag Bar, Welded
BMR Boxed SFC's, Welded
Centerline Convo Pro's Installed, Will run a ET Drag
Tick Perf Master installed, No drag, Clean Shifts.
Eastside Perf. Cleaned up the tune nicely.
Went back to a Stock LS6 Intake.
I have good expectations of the car, and I may ditch more weight to compensate for a normal race weight should be as I am a heavy driver, so we will see.
Since this post I have.....
Installed
QA1 R Series Front Shocks w/ 315# Springs
QA1 10 Way Rear Shocks Stock NON WS.6 Springs
UMI TQ arm Relocation Cross Member with Poly Trans Mount
UMI Rear Sway Drag Bar, Welded
BMR Boxed SFC's, Welded
Centerline Convo Pro's Installed, Will run a ET Drag
Tick Perf Master installed, No drag, Clean Shifts.
Eastside Perf. Cleaned up the tune nicely.
Went back to a Stock LS6 Intake.
I have good expectations of the car, and I may ditch more weight to compensate for a normal race weight should be as I am a heavy driver, so we will see.
#57
9 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is a good thread and gives me some hope for my car. When you ran the 13.1 @ 108 after the engine mods what do you think was going on? Lack of 60' and the car being heavy?
My car ran a best of 13.3 @ 109 w/ bolt ons before my cam swap and with a 2.3 60' due to horrible wheel hop in cool October air. The way it sits now it has ran a best of 12.9 @ 113 with a 2.27 60' on shitty sumitomo street tires with a DA over 2600. I was spinning in 1st and 2nd bad. I know it has to have more in it. It put down 387/384 with the throttle opening only to 85% (found that out later).
I am going back to the track next weekend and the DA should be in the 1000' range. So that alone should help. I will also be running some ET Streets trying not to break my rear. I am worried with the added traction that my MPH will actually go down. Maybe with my terrible 60' before I was spinning too much out of the hole that it was actually hurting my MPH? Needless to say I am frustrated with running bolt on times in my cam'd car. To the point of wanting to try a different setup.
Anyway, sorry for the long post in your thread but like I said, you have given me some hope. I have a full optioned SS with leather and only weight reduction is the spare tire and jack. I think my car is a heavy *** but not sure since there aren't any scales local to weigh it.
Good luck and I will be watching for your updated times!
My car ran a best of 13.3 @ 109 w/ bolt ons before my cam swap and with a 2.3 60' due to horrible wheel hop in cool October air. The way it sits now it has ran a best of 12.9 @ 113 with a 2.27 60' on shitty sumitomo street tires with a DA over 2600. I was spinning in 1st and 2nd bad. I know it has to have more in it. It put down 387/384 with the throttle opening only to 85% (found that out later).
I am going back to the track next weekend and the DA should be in the 1000' range. So that alone should help. I will also be running some ET Streets trying not to break my rear. I am worried with the added traction that my MPH will actually go down. Maybe with my terrible 60' before I was spinning too much out of the hole that it was actually hurting my MPH? Needless to say I am frustrated with running bolt on times in my cam'd car. To the point of wanting to try a different setup.
Anyway, sorry for the long post in your thread but like I said, you have given me some hope. I have a full optioned SS with leather and only weight reduction is the spare tire and jack. I think my car is a heavy *** but not sure since there aren't any scales local to weigh it.
Good luck and I will be watching for your updated times!
#58
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When it comes to racing the T-56 trans one thing I can tell you that is gear ratio (trans and rear end), tire, rpm, suspension, and race weight ALL factor in. Since the 1st gear in a Fbody T-56 is 2.66 and there is no "slip" built into the transmission the car tends to try to "crush" the tire and mods like Drag radials (regardless of brand) then to blow the tires off frequently.
Leaving at the highest RPM is considered optinum and having a great overall gear ratio is another thing that people do not talk about or really understand.
Some people, even after having to explain it to them mathamatically will not admit that increasing the gear ratios for M6 car helps. One mod that people do is a m12 trans swap, M12 is known as the GTO/C5Z06 Transmission which had better gear ratios for 1,2,3,5, and 6th. Having a better all around ratio relates to directly to Torque Multiplication
1st Gear Ratio X Rearend Gear Ratio = Overall Combined Gear Ratio (OCGR)
OCGR X Rear Wheel Torque (RWTQ) = Power applied at the tire.
Example.
T-56 (My car)
2.66 X 4.10 = 10.906 (OCGR)
10.906 X 360 RWTQ @ 5k = 3,926.16 Applied Force
M12 Swap
2.970 X 4.10 = 12.177
12.177 X 360 RWTQ @ 5k = 4,383.72 Applied Force
Gearing is still effected by overall diameter but the point is having more power applied at the launch can change how much RPM you need to have at launch and helps bring you into peak RPM for the cam or at least as close as you can get it with in the last 300 feet.
My car is going to get the rear gears done, may go 4.30's Stick with a 28" tall tire and then add a 100-150 shot and really see if I can break some stuff.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ons.htm#6sptrn
Leaving at the highest RPM is considered optinum and having a great overall gear ratio is another thing that people do not talk about or really understand.
Some people, even after having to explain it to them mathamatically will not admit that increasing the gear ratios for M6 car helps. One mod that people do is a m12 trans swap, M12 is known as the GTO/C5Z06 Transmission which had better gear ratios for 1,2,3,5, and 6th. Having a better all around ratio relates to directly to Torque Multiplication
1st Gear Ratio X Rearend Gear Ratio = Overall Combined Gear Ratio (OCGR)
OCGR X Rear Wheel Torque (RWTQ) = Power applied at the tire.
Example.
T-56 (My car)
2.66 X 4.10 = 10.906 (OCGR)
10.906 X 360 RWTQ @ 5k = 3,926.16 Applied Force
M12 Swap
2.970 X 4.10 = 12.177
12.177 X 360 RWTQ @ 5k = 4,383.72 Applied Force
Gearing is still effected by overall diameter but the point is having more power applied at the launch can change how much RPM you need to have at launch and helps bring you into peak RPM for the cam or at least as close as you can get it with in the last 300 feet.
My car is going to get the rear gears done, may go 4.30's Stick with a 28" tall tire and then add a 100-150 shot and really see if I can break some stuff.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ons.htm#6sptrn
#59
9 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for taking time to explain that to me. I always get confused when people say that a 4.10 gear in a M6 car wont help you to pick up any mph in the quarter. To me that makes no sense. I am switching from the 3.42's to 4.10's here shortly and hope to pick up a little something at the track with them.
Thanks again man.
Thanks again man.