Miami People! Flood+SS= Possibly Hydrolock
07-06-2009, 11:29 AM
#64
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thanks r1ch.
Ok so these are the codes that I have
P0140- O2 SENSOR NO ACTIVITY, BANK1, SENSOR 2
P0160- O2 SENSOR NO ACTIVITY, BANK2, SENSOR 2
P0507- IDLE SYSTEM RPM HIGH
The first two are expected, the last one however may just be the reason why my idle is so high. It's likely that the IAC valve is stuck from the crap in there. I cleaned out the TB before reinstalling it, but I never removed it to clean the valve itself. It may just be stuck in an open position and that would very much explain the vacuum sucking sound I have.
Im letting the engine cool off with the hood open, and I'll go outside when Im done eating to remove the IAC and see what i can rig up.
I already fixed my y-pipe too! it sounds great! My friend took a vid of it. Sound quality inside the car isnt that great, I had the window down cus I dont have AC yet, but just so you get an idea of how it is right now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_MyD16ZwS0
Thanks streetz!
Ok so these are the codes that I have
P0140- O2 SENSOR NO ACTIVITY, BANK1, SENSOR 2
P0160- O2 SENSOR NO ACTIVITY, BANK2, SENSOR 2
P0507- IDLE SYSTEM RPM HIGH
The first two are expected, the last one however may just be the reason why my idle is so high. It's likely that the IAC valve is stuck from the crap in there. I cleaned out the TB before reinstalling it, but I never removed it to clean the valve itself. It may just be stuck in an open position and that would very much explain the vacuum sucking sound I have.
Im letting the engine cool off with the hood open, and I'll go outside when Im done eating to remove the IAC and see what i can rig up.
I already fixed my y-pipe too! it sounds great! My friend took a vid of it. Sound quality inside the car isnt that great, I had the window down cus I dont have AC yet, but just so you get an idea of how it is right now...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_MyD16ZwS0
Thanks streetz!
07-11-2009, 07:41 AM
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Well it seems the vacuum leak sound was actually the AC pulleys (idler and tensioner). They must have gotten crapped out when I drove through the floods. As of right now there is no AC belt (dont need it anyways, no AC yet lol).
As for the idle, wow I pride myself in my rigs
. I tightened the TB, which was tight but not "torqued"- didnt make a difference. So I did a rig (no pics so use imagination)...- Cut out a 1"x3/4" piece of aluminum sheet metal
- Sandwished it right where the IACV's port dumps behind the TB and the intake manifold (essentially making a block-off plate)
- Reinstalled it without plugging in the IACV
Idle is nice and steady at 900-1000 RPM
In the process my used starter also died. I banged it and it worked lke that for a day then it just completely died. Could have been bad from when I bought it OR I think I messed it up when I "hosed it down" with brake parts cleaner to shine it up. Maybe the BPC got into it and dried up the grease causing it to seize. W/e, New Jersey Auto Parts has our starter for $99+ tax, brand new.
****************************
Question!- Is it common for the floorpan of the car around the driver side footwell to get hot after a header install? Cus damn! Driving in the highway you dont feel it because of all the air moving under the car. But when in traffic in bumper to bumper traffic for ~15mins and the heels of my feet are burning (I drive barefoot lol)! I feel around the carpet down there and it's hot!
Everything was installed correctly so I will probably wrap the collectors tomorrow and see if it helps.
07-11-2009, 07:58 AM
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oh yea! about 230miles on it so far. Im going to change the filter at 500mi, then at 1000mi the filter again and the oil. Im also running the engine with 1qt of ATF to clean it up a bit. I will probably do the same for one or two more oil changes.
07-11-2009, 03:32 PM
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Well they SHOULD all be the same price given that it's a chain. You may be able to bargain with them so who knows. But I got mine at the one across Castellanos Mufflers. Just north of SW 32nd street on 107th ave. $99+tax was the price to be exact. (Advance and Autozone both wanted $170ish for a re-manufactured)
Also got my AC compressor there, brand new, it was $219.99+ tax (Advance wanted $270ish for a rebuilt, $370ish for a new one)
I got my Alternator at the store by Tamiami Airport, that was $118.76+tax (Advance and Autozone both wanted $169 for a re-manufactured unit)
New Jersey Auto Parts ownz! Sticking it to the bigger parts stores... with no spit!
Also got my AC compressor there, brand new, it was $219.99+ tax (Advance wanted $270ish for a rebuilt, $370ish for a new one)
I got my Alternator at the store by Tamiami Airport, that was $118.76+tax (Advance and Autozone both wanted $169 for a re-manufactured unit)
New Jersey Auto Parts ownz! Sticking it to the bigger parts stores... with no spit!
07-28-2009, 11:56 AM
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This is due for an update.
So far well, everything has been good with the car. Has about 850mi on it since initial crank. I changed the oil filter at 600mi and the oil was immaculate. I have a friend that works at a shop here and I waited about 2weeks for them to get a new vacuum pump for the AC, but at that point I couldnt wait any longer so I just charged the system myself. Whenever they get the new pump I'll take it in to do a proper vacuum and charge.
The y-pipe had to be redone because of how I rigged it (my fault, not of the product) But it was simple stuff, I just didnt have the means at my house. I also had them weld a bung for my wideband after the merge. My LC1 is already in place and I just need to wire it up inside.
Not much to show but here it goes lol
I also went to Fynetune last week to dyno it :-D. Well nothing impressive by just looking at the numbers, given how it was originally at my baseline, but if you "read between the lines" there's plenty of potential for power as it is.
332whp, 342wtq SAE. On this run at redline the a/f was about 11.2:1. On the previous 2 runs it was actually down at 10.8:1 at redline!
There's a vid of this but my friend hasnt uploaded it yet.
Im not going to bother tuning until later when I have more mods. Im still recovering from the ~$2k I dumped into the car with parts and misc crap combined lol. September I'm looking to acquire an UDP, electronic cutout, SLP airlid, possibly a Flowmaster y-pipe merge, and a gauge for my wideband (have to hook the laptop to it currently to get readings lol).
At THIS point I'll go ahead and most likely do HP Tuners Basic and hit the rollers! Some people may say that HP Tuners is overkill for the mods, but Im getting it because I want to have ti ready for the FOLLOWING mods. If all goes to schedule, around X-mas Santa is going to bring me a cam package! What cam? I'll see when the time draws nearer. I haven't decided yet. But Im leaning into a TSP 228R.
That's it for now! Any updates I'll post back!
So far well, everything has been good with the car. Has about 850mi on it since initial crank. I changed the oil filter at 600mi and the oil was immaculate. I have a friend that works at a shop here and I waited about 2weeks for them to get a new vacuum pump for the AC, but at that point I couldnt wait any longer so I just charged the system myself. Whenever they get the new pump I'll take it in to do a proper vacuum and charge.
The y-pipe had to be redone because of how I rigged it (my fault, not of the product) But it was simple stuff, I just didnt have the means at my house. I also had them weld a bung for my wideband after the merge. My LC1 is already in place and I just need to wire it up inside.
Not much to show but here it goes lol
I also went to Fynetune last week to dyno it :-D. Well nothing impressive by just looking at the numbers, given how it was originally at my baseline, but if you "read between the lines" there's plenty of potential for power as it is.
332whp, 342wtq SAE. On this run at redline the a/f was about 11.2:1. On the previous 2 runs it was actually down at 10.8:1 at redline!
There's a vid of this but my friend hasnt uploaded it yet.
Im not going to bother tuning until later when I have more mods. Im still recovering from the ~$2k I dumped into the car with parts and misc crap combined lol. September I'm looking to acquire an UDP, electronic cutout, SLP airlid, possibly a Flowmaster y-pipe merge, and a gauge for my wideband (have to hook the laptop to it currently to get readings lol).
At THIS point I'll go ahead and most likely do HP Tuners Basic and hit the rollers! Some people may say that HP Tuners is overkill for the mods, but Im getting it because I want to have ti ready for the FOLLOWING mods. If all goes to schedule, around X-mas Santa is going to bring me a cam package! What cam? I'll see when the time draws nearer. I haven't decided yet. But Im leaning into a TSP 228R.
That's it for now! Any updates I'll post back!
08-07-2009, 08:12 AM
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Hey guys question, I bled the clutch hydrolics a few weeks ago. It still did not fix my current issue of not being able to shift at RPMs higher than 4500ish.
A week later, Maxgee pointed out to me that my fluid was dark! I had seen it myself when it was flushed and it was brand new fluid in the reservoir and also what was coming out of bleeding it, b0000!!!! lol. I hear this is normal so w/e.
Does anyone here have any tips or recommendations on doing the clutch line drill-mod other than what is posted on InstallUniversity's writeup? Im pretty sure if I do this my problem will go away.
Thanks!
A week later, Maxgee pointed out to me that my fluid was dark! I had seen it myself when it was flushed and it was brand new fluid in the reservoir and also what was coming out of bleeding it, b0000!!!! lol. I hear this is normal so w/e.
Does anyone here have any tips or recommendations on doing the clutch line drill-mod other than what is posted on InstallUniversity's writeup? Im pretty sure if I do this my problem will go away.
Thanks!
08-13-2009, 01:58 PM
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I havent gotten around to doing the drill mod. But last nite my pedal stuck to the floor after I noticed the clutch felt spongy earlier in the aftenroon. Also just before the pedal stuck to the floor, I smelled burnt brake fluid.
This morning I did some reading around with the stickies and hello!... http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
My fluid was so black it looked like onyx lol. It took 5 flushes with 50 pumps (the video says 30 but I went overboard to be sure) bet'n each.
This was AFTER the first flush (you can imagine the previous fluid)
This is after the 2nd flush, AND having cleaned out the bottle itself (notice the cool upward funnel of dirty fluid rising from the inlet, I wish I had a real camera, in person it looked cool!)
This is after the 5th flush (the 6th fluid in the tank) and after having pumped it 50x
Went for a test drive and well, I FINALLY shifted at redline on the turnpike! I swung that rear end shifting into 2nd and broke loose again on 3rd, damn I missed that! lol Gave it hell for a few runs, then some street driving, came back home and the fluid was still clean (for now). But so far this thing worked!
This is all the fluid I removed...
This morning I did some reading around with the stickies and hello!... http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html
My fluid was so black it looked like onyx lol. It took 5 flushes with 50 pumps (the video says 30 but I went overboard to be sure) bet'n each.
This was AFTER the first flush (you can imagine the previous fluid)
This is after the 2nd flush, AND having cleaned out the bottle itself (notice the cool upward funnel of dirty fluid rising from the inlet, I wish I had a real camera, in person it looked cool!)
This is after the 5th flush (the 6th fluid in the tank) and after having pumped it 50x
Went for a test drive and well, I FINALLY shifted at redline on the turnpike! I swung that rear end shifting into 2nd and broke loose again on 3rd, damn I missed that! lol Gave it hell for a few runs, then some street driving, came back home and the fluid was still clean (for now). But so far this thing worked!
This is all the fluid I removed...
08-14-2009, 10:54 AM
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I know how bad the streets of Miami can get, either the rain will kill you or the horrible street construction. Glad to see your car is in better condition.
-Joel
-Joel
08-23-2009, 09:36 PM
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So the whole "being able to shift at redline thing only lasted for that one run. 2 days after the clutch stuck again and there was fluid at the bottom of the bellhousing... It was time to get to work.
I pulled off the clutch master cylinder and checked under the dust boot to see if it was leaking- clean as a whistle. Well if it's not one it's the other!
Autozone wanted $98 for their slave cylinder. I got it at Advance Auto (in stock) for $68.
In the process I did the clutch line drill mod, that was pretty easy.
That tranny jack made life SO MUCH EASIER! It was only $79 at Harbor Freight. Definitely one of those tools that when you use them for the first time it makes you feel proud of your investment for it LOL.
Old
New
When I pulled off the old slave cylinder, the t/o bearing segment of it simply fell apart!
All the writeups that I saw said to basically pull the tranny in with the bolts for that last 1/2". I found this to be MUCH easier and faster. Once I had 3 bolts started and I was sure of the angle of the tranny in relation to the alignment of the input shaft into the pilot bearing hole, I just went to the top and basically pried the tranny forward on the shifter box against the rear edge of the shifter hole on the floor using a tie rod separator. It barely took any effort, went in smooth as butter!
I finished this Weds night and well, everything since then has been working perfectly fine! Also in the process I upgraded the tranny bushing (they also had it in stock at Advance which saved me time).
All in all, this car is running top notch right now!
I pulled off the clutch master cylinder and checked under the dust boot to see if it was leaking- clean as a whistle. Well if it's not one it's the other!
Autozone wanted $98 for their slave cylinder. I got it at Advance Auto (in stock) for $68.
In the process I did the clutch line drill mod, that was pretty easy.
That tranny jack made life SO MUCH EASIER! It was only $79 at Harbor Freight. Definitely one of those tools that when you use them for the first time it makes you feel proud of your investment for it LOL.
Old
New
When I pulled off the old slave cylinder, the t/o bearing segment of it simply fell apart!
All the writeups that I saw said to basically pull the tranny in with the bolts for that last 1/2". I found this to be MUCH easier and faster. Once I had 3 bolts started and I was sure of the angle of the tranny in relation to the alignment of the input shaft into the pilot bearing hole, I just went to the top and basically pried the tranny forward on the shifter box against the rear edge of the shifter hole on the floor using a tie rod separator. It barely took any effort, went in smooth as butter!
I finished this Weds night and well, everything since then has been working perfectly fine! Also in the process I upgraded the tranny bushing (they also had it in stock at Advance which saved me time).
All in all, this car is running top notch right now!
