FRC at Nissan at the Avenues
05-16-2012, 11:20 PM
#21
he said he went through a full inspection on the car and told them to not even put it on the lot. what did catch my eye when i took a quick look at it, the procharger had the serial number plate on it but it was so worn off that all that was left of it was the imprinted serial number. the color and everything else was gone
05-16-2012, 11:27 PM
#22
hmm. all I'm getting at is I'm wondering if this dude is actually wanting it and is trying to scare you away from it so he can pick it up. I've worked at dealerships and have seen it done by techs. maybe not, but kinda how it sounds to me. if you go back tomorrow, see if you can get him or someone to pull off the charge pipe right out of the outlet of the s/c. if there's metal in there, yeah I'd probably stay away unless you are prepared to either remove the s/c setup or rebuild/replace it. if not, try to see if you can reach the impeller and feel for shaft play, check the crankcase oil level, and with it running listen for strange sounds coming from it
05-17-2012, 06:26 AM
#23
Ditto because he's already owned a couple and now this pops up where he works for that price with a pro charger **** who cares if it needs a clutch that come with the territory of performance used cars and for that price it's worth it if you don't mine spending a few bucks to get it right.
05-17-2012, 02:38 PM
#26
Teching In
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I think your "master tech" doesnt know as much as you think he does, or he is BS'ing you
If this is the car i think it is, EFI Alchemy did a ton of work on it about 4 years ago, and it was a well cared for very fast car owned by a Navy guy
If this is the car i think it is, EFI Alchemy did a ton of work on it about 4 years ago, and it was a well cared for very fast car owned by a Navy guy
05-17-2012, 08:16 PM
#31
I called the dealership and got the list of stuff. The clutch and throwout bearing is bad, it needs all new brakes, the procharger is blowing out metal flakes, the front shocks are blown, needs new tires, sway bar bushings are bad and the a/c head control unit? Is bad. I'm gonna see what deal I can make with buying the parts and having them install it.
05-18-2012, 12:13 AM
#32
not trying to be a dick here man, but if you are even remotely interested in the car, you are going to have to physically go there and look at it. all the dealer is going to know about it is what the tech tells them, and from the sounds of it the tech doesn't sound like he is as fluent as he should be. or like I said, he wants it and is trying to work in a deal on it. if they really want to sell the car they should have no issues letting a tech do an inspection of the car with you present so you can see. I have worked for 2 different dealerships now and seen how things work within them. and the longer it sits at that lot, the more it is going to be hot rodded and abused by all the techs and detailers who need to take it out for driveability tests or put gas in it. not that I would know anything about doing something of that sort...
05-18-2012, 01:12 AM
#33
I can't believe that they didn't say anything about metal being in the oil if that much is " blowing" out of the blower.If theres really that much metal then that motor is screwed and it should be cheaper since the motor is going to need bearings at the bear minimum. I wonder if they would offer you an extended warranty for a few more bucks that would sick huh?
05-18-2012, 06:20 AM
#34
I know I have to physically go there. That was my plan today. I haven't had a chance to since i get to school by 8 and then go straight to work after and i don't get a chance to get there. I just called the dealer last night to let him know and he magically said there's a list now. And firebird99, what are you talking about?
05-18-2012, 11:30 AM
#35
Launching!
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He is saying that if the said metal shavings are as bad as described it would, at the minium, tear up the bearings inside the motor and would need replaced. And if you bought a warranty you could have them fix all the stuff that is fucked up at the cost of whatever the warranty costs..
This has seriously got me cruious though, i almost wanna drive up there and test drive that bit and see whats good and whats bad
This has seriously got me cruious though, i almost wanna drive up there and test drive that bit and see whats good and whats bad
05-18-2012, 12:12 PM
#36
He is saying that if the said metal shavings are as bad as described it would, at the minium, tear up the bearings inside the motor and would need replaced. And if you bought a warranty you could have them fix all the stuff that is fucked up at the cost of whatever the warranty costs..
This has seriously got me cruious though, i almost wanna drive up there and test drive that bit and see whats good and whats bad
This has seriously got me cruious though, i almost wanna drive up there and test drive that bit and see whats good and whats bad
05-18-2012, 01:29 PM
#37
Like I said before if there is that much metal shavings in the charge pipe and it's still blowing shavings which it will if it's bad then it's going to be in the motor period. Sorry if my post came off hard to read but I would consider that a blown motor at which point the price should go down and to prove that point have them quote you a price to buy a factory crate motor all parts needed for the swap and their labor add it up and compare the price of the car with swap to a car with the same miles and a good motor. Now after that through in the cost of the clutch, brakes and whatever else you can find.
05-19-2012, 06:08 AM
#39
Well if you think it's worth it with a bad clutch,no brakes,bad supercharger and possible a blown motor then go for it but I hope you would be able to see past the sugar coating and see the turd below. Sad part is some unsuspecting person will end up getting screwed when they buy it. Please don't take this as me being a smart a$$ but this seems like a steal until you really look at it but I know how some people including myself sometimes look past things just because we really want it that's how I ended up with my last trans am.
05-19-2012, 08:55 AM
#40
If you do your own labor and are going in knowing what may be wrong on an AS-IS car, then go for it. Don't count on getting any kind of warranty on a modded car with a blower.
However, if you pay to have work done on your car and are scraping by just to buy it and not prepared for "possible" repairs then skip it. Be prepared to bend over if you take it someplace to have work done. My personal opinion, if you have a blower on a stock bottom end, ALWAYS be prepared to put a motor in it.
Also, there are a few different procharger kits around. The older ATI stage 1 kits have a crappy bracket and the dual intercoolers are less than desirable. The newer ATI stage II kits are much better. However, in the corvette world, people usually go with A&A or ECS. They both made procharger kits as well. They are nicely designed kits and the brackets are much better. They now use Vortech or Paxton head units, but you can still buy parts for them and upgraded brackets. I'm personally a fan of A&A.
Sway bar bushings are nothing (probably has the plastic end links, new ones are metal), and doing brakes is about the same as an F-body. The EBTCM module is expensive if you need to replace it. I'm not aware of anyone who rebuilds the pre-2001 brake modules as of now. It will typically throw codes if it's failing. The A/C control unit can be manual or digital. The digital ones have a tendency of the screens going blank. Its an easy fix IF this is the case, and people rebuild the displays. Manual ones rarely go bad, the blower switch can though.
Tires and clutches are wear items but you dont want to skimp out. Labor on a C5 clutch job is going to cost you $$$. It's much more involved than an F-body. However, you would want to check the couplings in the torque tube while doing a clutch. They can and will go bad especially on a car with power. Especially on pre-2001's when they were upgraded to a larger shaft and couplers. I've had 2 older style tubes go bad. I now run a tube from an 02.
I try to avoid buying other people's projects or nightmares depending on how you look it at. Someone may have traded it in because it had problems, or maybe not. There's quite a few stock clean FRC's even Z06's around that can be bought reasonably and you just have to look. You may have to travel a bit to get exactly what you are looking for.
If the car was local, I would go look at it out of curiosity...
Good luck.
However, if you pay to have work done on your car and are scraping by just to buy it and not prepared for "possible" repairs then skip it. Be prepared to bend over if you take it someplace to have work done. My personal opinion, if you have a blower on a stock bottom end, ALWAYS be prepared to put a motor in it.
Also, there are a few different procharger kits around. The older ATI stage 1 kits have a crappy bracket and the dual intercoolers are less than desirable. The newer ATI stage II kits are much better. However, in the corvette world, people usually go with A&A or ECS. They both made procharger kits as well. They are nicely designed kits and the brackets are much better. They now use Vortech or Paxton head units, but you can still buy parts for them and upgraded brackets. I'm personally a fan of A&A.
Sway bar bushings are nothing (probably has the plastic end links, new ones are metal), and doing brakes is about the same as an F-body. The EBTCM module is expensive if you need to replace it. I'm not aware of anyone who rebuilds the pre-2001 brake modules as of now. It will typically throw codes if it's failing. The A/C control unit can be manual or digital. The digital ones have a tendency of the screens going blank. Its an easy fix IF this is the case, and people rebuild the displays. Manual ones rarely go bad, the blower switch can though.
Tires and clutches are wear items but you dont want to skimp out. Labor on a C5 clutch job is going to cost you $$$. It's much more involved than an F-body. However, you would want to check the couplings in the torque tube while doing a clutch. They can and will go bad especially on a car with power. Especially on pre-2001's when they were upgraded to a larger shaft and couplers. I've had 2 older style tubes go bad. I now run a tube from an 02.
I try to avoid buying other people's projects or nightmares depending on how you look it at. Someone may have traded it in because it had problems, or maybe not. There's quite a few stock clean FRC's even Z06's around that can be bought reasonably and you just have to look. You may have to travel a bit to get exactly what you are looking for.
If the car was local, I would go look at it out of curiosity...
Good luck.