Fed up with the car
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From: The Plywood State
Fed up with the car Hello everyone,
I am finally aggravated with the car. I can't seem to figure out what in the hell is wrong with it. Any help would be much appreciated, because the last thing I really want to do is take it to a dealership and have them screw me. Here is what is happening....
The car is a 99 LS1 M6
1. Burning a little bit of oil (car has 87K on it)
2. Codes so far have said that Bank 2 sensor 1 is either low activity or no activity. I have replaced this O2 sensor TWICE, with the same crappy result
3. When the car starts to miss, I rev the engine and the problem temporarily goes away, only to come back after a little while and miss again
4. This problem is at lower RPM. At WOT the car seems to be ok.
5. As I was driving the car the night before I flew to CO, the Service Engine Soon light starts flashing, which scared the ever loving crap out of me. I haven't gotten a chance to read the codes since this point.
6. When I was at Robert's shop, we found one wire on the starter exposed and was arcing on the header. We wrapped it in electrical tape and it doesn't look like anything is grounding anymore.
Any input would be glorious.
As a prize, whoever fixes/figures out this problem gets 2 free passes at OSW.... one for a Funday Sunday, and the other for a Wed/Fri night. This is after whatever it costs to fix this annoyance.
Thanks a lot in advance... I will be back in Orlando on January 5th.
I am finally aggravated with the car. I can't seem to figure out what in the hell is wrong with it. Any help would be much appreciated, because the last thing I really want to do is take it to a dealership and have them screw me. Here is what is happening....
The car is a 99 LS1 M6
1. Burning a little bit of oil (car has 87K on it)
2. Codes so far have said that Bank 2 sensor 1 is either low activity or no activity. I have replaced this O2 sensor TWICE, with the same crappy result
3. When the car starts to miss, I rev the engine and the problem temporarily goes away, only to come back after a little while and miss again
4. This problem is at lower RPM. At WOT the car seems to be ok.
5. As I was driving the car the night before I flew to CO, the Service Engine Soon light starts flashing, which scared the ever loving crap out of me. I haven't gotten a chance to read the codes since this point.
6. When I was at Robert's shop, we found one wire on the starter exposed and was arcing on the header. We wrapped it in electrical tape and it doesn't look like anything is grounding anymore.
Any input would be glorious.
As a prize, whoever fixes/figures out this problem gets 2 free passes at OSW.... one for a Funday Sunday, and the other for a Wed/Fri night. This is after whatever it costs to fix this annoyance.
Thanks a lot in advance... I will be back in Orlando on January 5th.
Last edited by The SSheriff; Jan 1, 2008 at 12:34 PM.
A bad plug wire or cracked spark plug?Does it get worse when its raining?Look under the hood at night to see any spark jumping anywhere around the plug wires. I had a 98 z-28 do that and #8 plug wire wasn't on all the way.
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From: The Plywood State
I'll check that out. I do remember having everything fairly tight on there. I guess I'll have to pull the wires and plugs again, but I don't believe I cracked or damaged any of the wires.
BTW Henny, it has most certainly been sprayed.... just not since 2006. I need to figure out what the hell is wrong with the wiring on it.
BTW Henny, it has most certainly been sprayed.... just not since 2006. I need to figure out what the hell is wrong with the wiring on it.
Last edited by The SSheriff; Jan 1, 2008 at 01:13 PM.
U may want to clean ur fuel system (i.e. fuel rails,change ur fuel filter,etc,etc). Disconnet ur battery for about 45mins so the computer relearn. Take ur lid off to ur TB and clean ur TB with TB clearner. If u want take ur intake manifold off and clean that S.O.B. out it proably fill with a lot crap that if u want to. I did this to my z and it has almost 100K. Runs like a champ. How often do u change ur oil?
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From: The Plywood State
I change my oil every 3000 miles, and use Royal Purple 10W-30. I use STP Fuel Injector cleaner at every oil change, and I am going to change my fuel filter when I get back. I have the filter and everything, but I need the right size wrenches to do so.
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The flashing chk eng lite is a hard misfire code....you really need to get it to someone that can scan it & trouble shoot. Should use no oil at those miles (we see 200k plus still not using oil) unless non-syn has been used. I suspect wire/plug/injector. If it was here we would diagnoss it free. Good Luck!
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Hello everyone,
I am finally aggravated with the car. I can't seem to figure out what in the hell is wrong with it. Any help would be much appreciated, because the last thing I really want to do is take it to a dealership and have them screw me. Here is what is happening....
The car is a 99 LS1 M6
1. Burning a little bit of oil (car has 87K on it)
Check the plugs before a cold start i.e. valve..Maybe, then do comp tests,,,PCV??? burnin or leakin
2. Codes so far have said that Bank 2 sensor 1 is either low activity or no activity. I have replaced this O2 sensor TWICE, with the same crappy result
Left side Sounds like a harness or ground issue. Check for bent connectors & PCM, trace O2 wires, If wires r fried, worn thats one of the codes youll get.
3. When the car starts to miss, I rev the engine and the problem temporarily goes away, only to come back after a little while and miss again
Sounds like its in open loop from O2s unless ur getting misfire codes. Is the idle good or does it hunt?
4. This problem is at lower RPM. At WOT the car seems to be ok.
Sounds like Open Loop
5. As I was driving the car the night before I flew to CO, the Service Engine Soon light starts flashing, which scared the ever loving crap out of me. I haven't gotten a chance to read the codes since this point.
Get the codes & copy n clear em, if you have a tuner, disable Diag for bank 2 sensor 1 (0135 or 0133 not sure) until you track down the short or problem. the other O2 will keep trims, Hopefully..LOL
6. When I was at Robert's shop, we found one wire on the starter exposed and was arcing on the header. We wrapped it in electrical tape and it doesn't look like anything is grounding anymore.
I would run new wire & connects too O2s just for shitsngigs.
Any input would be glorious.
As a prize, whoever fixes/figures out this problem gets 2 free passes at OSW.... one for a Funday Sunday, and the other for a Wed/Fri night. This is after whatever it costs to fix this annoyance.
Thanks a lot in advance... I will be back in Orlando on January 5th.
I am finally aggravated with the car. I can't seem to figure out what in the hell is wrong with it. Any help would be much appreciated, because the last thing I really want to do is take it to a dealership and have them screw me. Here is what is happening....
The car is a 99 LS1 M6
1. Burning a little bit of oil (car has 87K on it)
Check the plugs before a cold start i.e. valve..Maybe, then do comp tests,,,PCV??? burnin or leakin
2. Codes so far have said that Bank 2 sensor 1 is either low activity or no activity. I have replaced this O2 sensor TWICE, with the same crappy result
Left side Sounds like a harness or ground issue. Check for bent connectors & PCM, trace O2 wires, If wires r fried, worn thats one of the codes youll get.
3. When the car starts to miss, I rev the engine and the problem temporarily goes away, only to come back after a little while and miss again
Sounds like its in open loop from O2s unless ur getting misfire codes. Is the idle good or does it hunt?
4. This problem is at lower RPM. At WOT the car seems to be ok.
Sounds like Open Loop
5. As I was driving the car the night before I flew to CO, the Service Engine Soon light starts flashing, which scared the ever loving crap out of me. I haven't gotten a chance to read the codes since this point.
Get the codes & copy n clear em, if you have a tuner, disable Diag for bank 2 sensor 1 (0135 or 0133 not sure) until you track down the short or problem. the other O2 will keep trims, Hopefully..LOL
6. When I was at Robert's shop, we found one wire on the starter exposed and was arcing on the header. We wrapped it in electrical tape and it doesn't look like anything is grounding anymore.
I would run new wire & connects too O2s just for shitsngigs.
Any input would be glorious.
As a prize, whoever fixes/figures out this problem gets 2 free passes at OSW.... one for a Funday Sunday, and the other for a Wed/Fri night. This is after whatever it costs to fix this annoyance.
Thanks a lot in advance... I will be back in Orlando on January 5th.
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From: The Plywood State
Thanks 3fingas,
Bank 2 sensor 1 is actually on the passenger side. It has always seemed like the right side of my O2 system is always crappy. I got O2 sims for the rears when Bank 2 sensor 2 took a ****, and now Bank 2 sensor 1 is giving me a problem. Could this be coincidence??
As far as the idle is concerned, it is hit or miss..... Sometimes the car will idle just fine, and other times it'll dip into the 450s-600s. After it does that for a litttle while, the car will jump up to about 1000 and then make its way back down again.
As far as "using oil", the car has a teeny bit of white smoke, but other than that it smells just like any other catless LS1 (not for long though, I have some MAC cats on the way
)
It seems lately the car continues to give me trouble in the stupidest areas. I need someone who can fix my driver's side window (there is a plastic notch in the window that prevents the rear of it from going up too high that is broken, so now I have to pull the front of the window up the extra 1/2").
I just want it all to go away. But for now, this engine problem is going to be the first to go.
Bank 2 sensor 1 is actually on the passenger side. It has always seemed like the right side of my O2 system is always crappy. I got O2 sims for the rears when Bank 2 sensor 2 took a ****, and now Bank 2 sensor 1 is giving me a problem. Could this be coincidence??
As far as the idle is concerned, it is hit or miss..... Sometimes the car will idle just fine, and other times it'll dip into the 450s-600s. After it does that for a litttle while, the car will jump up to about 1000 and then make its way back down again.
As far as "using oil", the car has a teeny bit of white smoke, but other than that it smells just like any other catless LS1 (not for long though, I have some MAC cats on the way
)It seems lately the car continues to give me trouble in the stupidest areas. I need someone who can fix my driver's side window (there is a plastic notch in the window that prevents the rear of it from going up too high that is broken, so now I have to pull the front of the window up the extra 1/2").
I just want it all to go away. But for now, this engine problem is going to be the first to go.
I can do a quick Tech2 scan for you if you can get over by me. Downside on that is I am only at the shop Weds and Thursday and for a brief time Sat AM. i am in South FL tuning Friday and I leave at noon sat for Arizona.
Couple questions.
Could you post up a complete list of mods done so far?
If it has a cam, what are the specs and what springs?
If it has headers, what brand and what Y-pipe?
Has it been tuned?
Do you still have a stock PCV system as well as breather setup and if not, how is everything on there now?
Off the top of my head I am thinking some kind of vacuum leak via the PCV system or a broken valve spring. Possibly an small exhaust leak playing heck with the oxygen sensor. Loose spark plug. Plug wire touching a header.
The Tech2 can find which cylinder is missing. As long as the misfire codes are not turned off. Judging by the flashing SES, which usuall indicates a misfire code as mentioned earlier, it should be picked up fairly easily.
Hope this helps.
Mike Norris
Couple questions.
Could you post up a complete list of mods done so far?
If it has a cam, what are the specs and what springs?
If it has headers, what brand and what Y-pipe?
Has it been tuned?
Do you still have a stock PCV system as well as breather setup and if not, how is everything on there now?
Off the top of my head I am thinking some kind of vacuum leak via the PCV system or a broken valve spring. Possibly an small exhaust leak playing heck with the oxygen sensor. Loose spark plug. Plug wire touching a header.
The Tech2 can find which cylinder is missing. As long as the misfire codes are not turned off. Judging by the flashing SES, which usuall indicates a misfire code as mentioned earlier, it should be picked up fairly easily.
Hope this helps.
Mike Norris
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From: The Plywood State
Thank you Mr. Norris.....
I am totally booked on Wednesdays, but Thursdays I can come down. I will not be back in the Orlando area until the 5th.
Here is "The list"
ENGINE:
Alum. 5.7L LS1 OHV V8
K&N air filter with Whisper Lid
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wires
NGK TR6 plugs @ .040"
Fast Toys Ram Air kit
Granatelli MAF Nitrous Tune
MAC Medium Length Ceramic Headers
!AIR
!EGR
!CATS
Hooker Aerochamber muffler
Computer tune by MRR23 (Robert). Simple stuff (reset fans, recalc speedo for 3.73s, removed timing pull on ASR)
75 Shot of N2O
160 Degree Thermostat
O2 Sims
ASP Underdrive Pulley
LS6 valve springs
2000+ stock camshaft
Comp Cams 7.400" Chromemoly pushrods
Chrome A/C Accumulator
TRANSMISSION:
Zexel Torsen differential with Motive 3.73 gears
Lous Short Stick with Hurst shifter
!CAGS Skip-Shift Eliminator
C5 Z06 clutch
1LE Transmission mount
SUSPENSION:
1LE solid front sway bar
1LE rear sway bar
Kenny Brown Sub Frame Connectors
LG Motorsports Lower Control Arms
Tbyrne Adjustable Panhard Rod
Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
TA Performance Rear Girdle
1LE Polyurethane bushings all around
BRAKES:
Baer EradiSpeed Cross Drilled / Slotted Rotors
Hawk HPS brake pads
BF Goodrich G-force 275/40ZR/17
INTERIOR:
SLP "Camaro SS" floor mats
Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge
Autometer Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
I am totally booked on Wednesdays, but Thursdays I can come down. I will not be back in the Orlando area until the 5th.
Here is "The list"
ENGINE:
Alum. 5.7L LS1 OHV V8
K&N air filter with Whisper Lid
MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wires
NGK TR6 plugs @ .040"
Fast Toys Ram Air kit
Granatelli MAF Nitrous Tune
MAC Medium Length Ceramic Headers
!AIR
!EGR
!CATS
Hooker Aerochamber muffler
Computer tune by MRR23 (Robert). Simple stuff (reset fans, recalc speedo for 3.73s, removed timing pull on ASR)
75 Shot of N2O
160 Degree Thermostat
O2 Sims
ASP Underdrive Pulley
LS6 valve springs
2000+ stock camshaft
Comp Cams 7.400" Chromemoly pushrods
Chrome A/C Accumulator
TRANSMISSION:
Zexel Torsen differential with Motive 3.73 gears
Lous Short Stick with Hurst shifter
!CAGS Skip-Shift Eliminator
C5 Z06 clutch
1LE Transmission mount
SUSPENSION:
1LE solid front sway bar
1LE rear sway bar
Kenny Brown Sub Frame Connectors
LG Motorsports Lower Control Arms
Tbyrne Adjustable Panhard Rod
Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
TA Performance Rear Girdle
1LE Polyurethane bushings all around
BRAKES:
Baer EradiSpeed Cross Drilled / Slotted Rotors
Hawk HPS brake pads
BF Goodrich G-force 275/40ZR/17
INTERIOR:
SLP "Camaro SS" floor mats
Autometer Fuel Pressure Gauge
Autometer Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Now that is a detailed list I may be able to take a look Sat early AM before I leave. I would say to give me a call during the day Friday and I should know whats up by then. Talk to you then and hopefully we will see whats going on.
I can see the GMS MAF potentially causing an issue as I have had them go bad in the past. Also, and I had asked this before, is the PCV system stock? If modified, what was done? I have seen idle and fuel trim issues when the PCV valve is removed when installing a catch can. Just a thought.
Mike Norris
I may be able to take a look Sat early AM before I leave. I would say to give me a call during the day Friday and I should know whats up by then. Talk to you then and hopefully we will see whats going on.I can see the GMS MAF potentially causing an issue as I have had them go bad in the past. Also, and I had asked this before, is the PCV system stock? If modified, what was done? I have seen idle and fuel trim issues when the PCV valve is removed when installing a catch can. Just a thought.
Mike Norris
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From: The Plywood State
Hey Mike,
I believe that the PCV system is still stock, but I am not 100% positive. I do appreciate all of the help.
Unfortunately I will not be around this Saturday, the 5th as I am helping my girlfriend get accustomed to Gainesville and preparing her for school. When is the next time you are going to be back from Arizona? Maybe we can schedule something then.
I believe that the PCV system is still stock, but I am not 100% positive. I do appreciate all of the help.
Unfortunately I will not be around this Saturday, the 5th as I am helping my girlfriend get accustomed to Gainesville and preparing her for school. When is the next time you are going to be back from Arizona? Maybe we can schedule something then.
I saw you mentioned white smoke? Have you checked your coolant. Typically oil burn is blueish, fuel is grey/black and coolant is white. Also, the PCV thing sounds suspect. The hoses attatched to it frequently rott and leak. Mine was falling apart when I got it. CHeck that out. Make sure all your spark plug wires are completely locked on. The MSDs are a pain to make sure they are on all the way. When we do any work on mine it seems like I have to go back the next day and push some of them back on.
And good luck
And good luck
If they are Bosch O2s, that might be the cause. It seems about 1 of every 2 of those just don't work or cause erroneous readings. If they are Bosch, I would replace them with Delcos. They are more expensive but have a better reputation for being quality. Good Luck.