My custom FMIC setup thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
My custom FMIC setup thread Hey all,
I'm going to have an assload of questions on this, so I might as well just consolidate them into one thread. For starters, here are a few:
1) What do you guys do to fit the IAT sensor into the charge piping?
2) I measured the TB to about 3-7/8". I'm assuming I'll need a 3" to 4" transition silicon coupler to connect it to the 3" charge piping? Or, is there another size that I need?
3) What is the arrow pointing to in the attached picture? I'm just curious because I might end up relocating it.
I'm going to have an assload of questions on this, so I might as well just consolidate them into one thread. For starters, here are a few:
1) What do you guys do to fit the IAT sensor into the charge piping?
2) I measured the TB to about 3-7/8". I'm assuming I'll need a 3" to 4" transition silicon coupler to connect it to the 3" charge piping? Or, is there another size that I need?
3) What is the arrow pointing to in the attached picture? I'm just curious because I might end up relocating it.
1- I just drilled a hole BARELY big enough to put the IAT grommet in, and really had to shove hard to get the sensor to slide into the grommet. There is a threaded IAT sensor option out there, search for it in the Forced Inductions forum, you'll find threads.
2- Yes, that is the coupler you will need.
3- I don't know, you shouldn't have to remove it though, you have bend the horns out of the way.
2- Yes, that is the coupler you will need.
3- I don't know, you shouldn't have to remove it though, you have bend the horns out of the way.
The pictured item is the vaccum canister so you HVAC stuff continues to work at WOT.
I just made a new bracket for my horns. And for the IAT I got a IAT senor from a LT4 ZR1 corvette(I have heard this one is better because the element is exposed) and got a bung and welded it to my charge pipes.
I just made a new bracket for my horns. And for the IAT I got a IAT senor from a LT4 ZR1 corvette(I have heard this one is better because the element is exposed) and got a bung and welded it to my charge pipes.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,294
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Thanks, guys. I really appreciate it. I'm not much of a fabricator, so this is going to be a really new experience for me. One more question at this point (and many more to follow, I'm sure):
4) What do you guys do to move the cruise control? When I was looking at it last night, I remember thinking there was a place very close to it's stock location that wouldn't be in the way and wouldn't require any fooling with the cable.
4) What do you guys do to move the cruise control? When I was looking at it last night, I remember thinking there was a place very close to it's stock location that wouldn't be in the way and wouldn't require any fooling with the cable.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,294
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Okay, here's another one for you guys...
5) How did you route your pipes around the fuse box? I don't have the blower on the car yet (need some motor work first), but I'm assuming it won't go under the fender and behind the radiator. So, I'm assuming that you guys bring it up through the hole under the fuse box, right? If so, how'd you move the fuse box?
5) How did you route your pipes around the fuse box? I don't have the blower on the car yet (need some motor work first), but I'm assuming it won't go under the fender and behind the radiator. So, I'm assuming that you guys bring it up through the hole under the fuse box, right? If so, how'd you move the fuse box?
It seems like we both cammed our cars at the same time and we are both going FI at the same time.
I'll be doing my cold pipes tomorrow. I'll be going up through that hole under the fuse box. I'll take some pictures.
I'll be doing my cold pipes tomorrow. I'll be going up through that hole under the fuse box. I'll take some pictures.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,294
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Anyone have pics of how you routed your intake piping around the fuse box? I'm assuming that most people run the pipe up through the hole under the fuse box for FMIC kits on the D1SC.
nice setup going the other way with the charge piping but relocating your battery is another thing you have to worry about and do now lol. No big deal to some since some guys like to do that anyways but if you're like me, i wouldnt wanna mess with or throw 10 ft of thick *** cable all the way to the trunk ...
Guy who asked about the piping through the fuse box area, you have to take a part of the fuse box off (unclip it from its plastic) and you can eigther lift the whole assembly and hide that peice of fuse box under the whole assembly or you can relocate it however you can to make your setup fit. It has short slack on it since the cables arent that long so my best outcome came after i tucked it underneath, andthat gaveme the best clearance for a 3" pipe coming up through that area. 3" pipe fits kinda tight in there but its perfect for what we need it for. Good luck, thats my .02
Guy who asked about the piping through the fuse box area, you have to take a part of the fuse box off (unclip it from its plastic) and you can eigther lift the whole assembly and hide that peice of fuse box under the whole assembly or you can relocate it however you can to make your setup fit. It has short slack on it since the cables arent that long so my best outcome came after i tucked it underneath, andthat gaveme the best clearance for a 3" pipe coming up through that area. 3" pipe fits kinda tight in there but its perfect for what we need it for. Good luck, thats my .02
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Time to resurrect this thread. 
I've got the motor back in the car, and I'm looking at turbot's pictures and trying to figure out how to route the wires the way he has... with one exception. I'm not really interested in doing a battery relocation, so I'm trying to work it such that I can bring the pipe straight up next to the battery. It looks pretty doable, however, the hose going from the water pump to the passenger side of the radiator is in the way.
I was curious... has anyone used one of the straight t-stat replacements to make this work? Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:
EDIT: Added pics of the intercooler mounted for those who might be interested. I cut the front out of the front bumper support so that air could flow through it but the fogs could be retained and the flap on the bottom of the bumper would still be able to attach.
I've got the motor back in the car, and I'm looking at turbot's pictures and trying to figure out how to route the wires the way he has... with one exception. I'm not really interested in doing a battery relocation, so I'm trying to work it such that I can bring the pipe straight up next to the battery. It looks pretty doable, however, the hose going from the water pump to the passenger side of the radiator is in the way.
I was curious... has anyone used one of the straight t-stat replacements to make this work? Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:
EDIT: Added pics of the intercooler mounted for those who might be interested. I cut the front out of the front bumper support so that air could flow through it but the fogs could be retained and the flap on the bottom of the bumper would still be able to attach.
Last edited by Gauge; Jan 25, 2009 at 10:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,294
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Just to be more clear in case anyone doesn't know what I'm talking about, here is a picture of the stock t-stat housing on the car. If you'll look, the hose is pretty much in the way of a pipe running right next to the battery.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,294
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Thanks for the posts, guys. I didn't want to relocate the battery, so I went ahead and pushed the fuse box out of the way. Here are some pics of my setup mocked up on the car. It's at a local shop for welding now.
