A2W on street car?
I run an A2A on my street car (4" ebay special) and run high 9's on only 11 or 12 psi with a baby T4 80mm turbo. Pretty sure I could go low 9's (or better) with 6 or 7 pounds more boost, without ever having to worry about plumbing the A2W or buying ice.
Originally Posted by otherwhitemeat
Lol.. Of course they do well.....they don't make any power....we have a lot of syclones and typhoons around here too....a lot of them carry a big *** igloo cooler in the back too...lol
Last edited by 1BadAction; Dec 14, 2008 at 11:19 PM.
whatever you say guru. I guess the Bugatti Veryon with 4 turbos and 1001hp is a slug, right? [/QUOTE]
Relax..I know what you are saying..I was messing with you....BTW...who doesn't have a 1000hp nowadays..
[/QUOTE]Relax..I know what you are saying..I was messing with you....BTW...who doesn't have a 1000hp nowadays..
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Northern Chicago
This thread turned into a clusterfuck.
Exactly, and the same goes the opposite way. Either can be made to work properly. I prefer the a2a set-up as it is less complicated, usually cheaper, and never prone to pump failure. Providing you can fit an adequate a2a core to do the job, if you can't you need to go a2w.
The only advantages I see to a2w is...
1. The ability to add ice when needed
2. Even though you have more parts to make the system work properly on a street car. The parts are often smaller in physical size and can make packaging easier.
Mighty, have you ever measured back pressure across your I/C core? Or have noticed higher intake temps than others using the same set-up? I'd say you are pushing it a bit beyond it's means.
The only advantages I see to a2w is...
1. The ability to add ice when needed
2. Even though you have more parts to make the system work properly on a street car. The parts are often smaller in physical size and can make packaging easier.
Mighty, have you ever measured back pressure across your I/C core? Or have noticed higher intake temps than others using the same set-up? I'd say you are pushing it a bit beyond it's means.
i have not measured before/after
all i know is that for a 900 horse core its doing an awesome job over 1100.
a log i have when using ice over a 1/4 pass shows the inlet temp just comes back up to ambient by end of the pass at 21psi
all i know is that for a 900 horse core its doing an awesome job over 1100.
a log i have when using ice over a 1/4 pass shows the inlet temp just comes back up to ambient by end of the pass at 21psi
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http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...Y/DSC00119.jpg
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...Y/DSC00118.jpg
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Here are pics of the old ATW ....
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/j...Y/DSCN2973.jpg
Launching!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Northern Chicago
Might want to consider upgrading the core. My buddies standing mile EVO was seeing similar temp increases as your car in the 1/4. I built a 2k hp core for it and it picked up a nice chunk of power. Now the intake temps don't get above 65 degrees in a full mile pass and has no more than 2psi of pressure drop across the core. The core is a bit of overkill for the 1100hp it makes but it works.
you still thinking about coming out with a hot parts kit for LS1's Ron? I think your idea for a universal LS1 hot part turbo kit could be a hot ticket item. Gotta strike while the irons hot.
There's a lot of guys making some big power(around 1000 horse or more)in this thread. I run an OFI kit with a A2W IC and have to agree with those who run a TTI race kit and say a properly setup A2W setup has major advantages over a A2A. The water never gets hot if you have a properly sized & placed heat exchanger and you can bring the cold air with you.
otherwhitemeat: I really dont know a whole lot about volume/flow, but that A2W you were using looks really undersized for the power your making. Looks like 2 4x4x10 cores welded ontop of each other, and if your beating 8.90 cars, you need a 1500 hp core.
There's a lot of guys making some big power(around 1000 horse or more)in this thread. I run an OFI kit with a A2W IC and have to agree with those who run a TTI race kit and say a properly setup A2W setup has major advantages over a A2A. The water never gets hot if you have a properly sized & placed heat exchanger and you can bring the cold air with you.
otherwhitemeat: I really dont know a whole lot about volume/flow, but that A2W you were using looks really undersized for the power your making. Looks like 2 4x4x10 cores welded ontop of each other, and if your beating 8.90 cars, you need a 1500 hp core.
water is a better thermal conductor than air period.
room temp. water will conduct heat away better than room temp. air period
water system is heavier more complicated and more expensive. ALSO works better all scenarios outside of roadcourse where the water cannot cool down quick enough.
room temp. water will conduct heat away better than room temp. air period
water system is heavier more complicated and more expensive. ALSO works better all scenarios outside of roadcourse where the water cannot cool down quick enough.
you still thinking about coming out with a hot parts kit for LS1's Ron? I think your idea for a universal LS1 hot part turbo kit could be a hot ticket item. Gotta strike while the irons hot.
There's a lot of guys making some big power(around 1000 horse or more)in this thread. I run an OFI kit with a A2W IC and have to agree with those who run a TTI race kit and say a properly setup A2W setup has major advantages over a A2A. The water never gets hot if you have a properly sized & placed heat exchanger and you can bring the cold air with you.
otherwhitemeat: I really dont know a whole lot about volume/flow, but that A2W you were using looks really undersized for the power your making. Looks like 2 4x4x10 cores welded ontop of each other, and if your beating 8.90 cars, you need a 1500 hp core.
There's a lot of guys making some big power(around 1000 horse or more)in this thread. I run an OFI kit with a A2W IC and have to agree with those who run a TTI race kit and say a properly setup A2W setup has major advantages over a A2A. The water never gets hot if you have a properly sized & placed heat exchanger and you can bring the cold air with you.
otherwhitemeat: I really dont know a whole lot about volume/flow, but that A2W you were using looks really undersized for the power your making. Looks like 2 4x4x10 cores welded ontop of each other, and if your beating 8.90 cars, you need a 1500 hp core.
I log a run this summer with the air temps starting at 76 degs and at the end of the run it was at 78 degs..that was with the ATA and the ez94mm at 27psi....If that dont say anything then I guess I'm done.
Last edited by otherwhitemeat; Dec 12, 2008 at 10:24 PM.
after reading all this made me start to think. well nothing really to do with your car but my snowmobiles are liquid cooled and its always 32deg or below. so after reading this thread makes me believe W to A is better. cause you figure you could use just air to cool the motor at those cold of temps.
127mph in the 1/8......... spun a bit out of the hole on radials and only ran a 5.7 1/8
Popped a head gasket and havent had it back togeather since....
One of these days...... my son was born and i had to put more important things up front...... i know alot of you know what i mean.....
Kyle
127mph in the 1/8......... spun a bit out of the hole on radials and only ran a 5.7 1/8
Popped a head gasket and havent had it back togeather since....
One of these days...... my son was born and i had to put more important things up front...... i know alot of you know what i mean.....
Kyle
Popped a head gasket and havent had it back togeather since....
One of these days...... my son was born and i had to put more important things up front...... i know alot of you know what i mean.....
Kyle
To the op. Would a small fan help a a2w intercooler in stop and go traffic? I wonder if you can spray no2 inside the water box befor each run
That would be pimp I guess since it will cool the water down. Another though, That intercooler sprayer thing I wonder if you can place that in the bottom of the water tank and plumb a single no2 line to it. And befor each run spray alittle to cool it off, Or hell spray all the way down the track. Im guessing it wont freeze the water hell I dont know this is beer thinking lol!
As far as performance...log some passes at 30 plus psi....which is what you'll need to do to race any street cars over in MN
and add a 95 deg. day with with a tropical humidity level, that of a jungle
and do back to back passes with no resting, cause there are 8 1200-1800hp cars trying to race you befor the cops show up
now tell me how warm your water is and what your temps are
...
fwiw i have never made 3 back to back 0-160mph street races in my life, nor seen or heard of it. if i make 3 back to back 3rd gear pulls then i was pobably in the middle of getting my *** handed to me. normally all it takes is one third gear pull to get the job done.
and our cars dont generally get cool down time until were going home or the action is over. Many guys around here run a IC and METH or nitrous to help cool the IAT's Our systems might not need to work as hard (as say someone's in Florida or a warmer area) for as long of a part of the year, But they DO need to work as good at certain times of the summer.Lets say for example your using 4" tubing... that has a cross sectional area of approx. 12.5" square. now lets say that you need 15 feet (180 inches) of tubing to plumb from your turbo through the IC and to the TB... 180" x 12.5"^2 = 2250 cubic inches. A CUBIC FOOT (like the one you seem to be so famaliar with) has exactly 1,728 cubic INCHES... so now if we take the 2250 cubic inches of tubing between the turbo and the TB mentioned earlier and divide it by the 1,728 Cubic inches within a cubic foot we get 1.30 CUBIC FEET!
Fact, its simple math. 1BadAction...And as far as the Bugatti goes... Isnt that a 2 million dollar car??? Most of us are talking about our daily driver cars or our budget builds in these forums... I am sure that there is a forum somewhere that could use your insights on cars that cost 100 times more than most of us spend on our cars, Oh ****... there's that 100 number coming back again...
I am reading this thread because i am interested in what happens in the real world condiitions. My real world conditions mean that there is not a race track within two and a half hours from where I live (no time for ice on the street) and even that track isnt the greatest. MN has a LOT of street racing action because of this and the cars are getting faster than ever and costing more and more. I am, to a certain extent, interested in bang for the buck mods, reliability, and effectiveness. I dont have a RACE car, and like many people I am more interested in a streetable setup. It seems like nearly everybody has a street rod of some sort... MN street racing is taken pretty seriously, afterall the Car Craft summer nationals are held here for a reason!
I am getting some great info here and I really appreciate it! But for those of you who are blowing smoke for whatever reason... Please save your time.
What this thread could use is (more) numbers. I dont have a turbo car... yet. But for those of you who do and who can or who already are sharing your IAT numbers and other intelligent info, Thank YOU!
From what I already know and what I have read about, I think that either setup can work really well if designed properly to handle the job at task
oh wait i did do 3 passes in one hour at the lsx shootout 9.3 @154 avg with air/water it was 83* outside that day.
we werent allowed to pop the hood or touch the intercooler during the passes
we werent allowed to pop the hood or touch the intercooler during the passes