Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

2-step

Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:02 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by veee8
I have mine hooked up to the brake light switch. So I just brake torque it and it is on the 2-step. Works good for now until I get the trans-brake. I have a line lock for the burnouts.
I've been thinking about doing that same thing since I don't have a t-brake. Do you have problems pushing through the brakes? How much boost can you build at the line?
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 03:28 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sideways240sx
The car is one MT ET Street Radials. 275/40/17 on stock heavy rims.
The Trans is a stock t56 with a Centerforce DFX clutch.

Im dropping the clutch, I think it slips a little, but that clutch was in the car for bolt ons, and not for the power im making. It holds fine except on launches. I really dont care about it cause im gonna go to a th400 with a brake.

Anyways, with the 2 step where it is, its pretty consisten low 1.7's. In a full weight turbo 6 spd car i dont think its to bad. If i throw a couple more hundred rpm @ it it will be int he 1.6's for sure, but im trying not to break the trans.

Lastly i think the car is undergeared for the power im making. Right now its a 3.50 gear in the fab 9. Im still only @ 6 psi, and a little shy of 500 whp, but that should hopefully be better next yr.


Chris
sweet...i am still on a "factory replcement" clutch, which they say holds 10-15% better than stock and im only putting 450 to the rear wheels....any advice on launching the car with that set up?
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BodyGuy98
sweet...i am still on a "factory replcement" clutch, which they say holds 10-15% better than stock and im only putting 450 to the rear wheels....any advice on launching the car with that set up?
hmmm.. I really dont know. I dont know how it will hold up to it... But in all honesty my clutch does much better on the 2 step, then it did just launching. before i had the 2 step the clutch would slip more.


good luck, Chris
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 12:29 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by F-BodyGuy98
do you have any videos of this car..i would love to hear it ...what rpm do you guys have it set at?
I will try to get you a video of it hitting on the 2-step tomorrow.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 06:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
Lingenfelters LNC-002 is awesome. For the auto guys who want one MORE step/rev limiter....the lnc-003 is even better. You can then do like the big dogs.....go on the first step on the foot brake into the prestage beam and then go to the 2nd stage on the brake in the stage beam.

i just got the first one...lnc-003
I got the first step wired into the ebrake light switch under the ebrake handle.
the 2nd step is wired with the tbrake

i get 2 psi at 2600 rpms before i ever get to the prestage beam and then once i stage and go on the 2nd step i get 5 psi instantly. This is awesome for auto/turbo guys.
Can you elaborate on this a bit? Why would you need to stages? Is it because it takes too long for the boost to build compared to the time it takes the lights to drop?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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exactly!!!!. A sportsman tree is ok but a pro tree you better be ready to go in an instant! the LNC-3 lets you do this.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #27  
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Ah, so i'll be alright. I won't be running a pro tree
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by calongo_SS
I've been thinking about doing that same thing since I don't have a t-brake. Do you have problems pushing through the brakes? How much boost can you build at the line?
I have 4000 stall, but I have not experimented with upping the rpm yet. I only tried it twice, as I am still dialing in the whole combo. The brakes easily hold the 2800 rpm and 3.5psi. I have a Strange manual brake master cylinder, so I have to really stand on the pedal.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:54 PM
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Well, that would work for me then. I can get roughly the same rpm, but I'm at atmosphere, if the 2-step could give me a few lbs of boost it would really get things moving out of the hole a lot better.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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I had to change something on my 2-step setup last night. I had it hooked up to activate when the brake pedal was depressed, which worked but I discovered the BS3 turns off closed loop fuel correction when on the 2-step, so basically anytime I had the brakes on!, So I put a switch inline on the activation wire, so the switch has to be on before the 2-step will turn on. Pretty simple fix.
And with 20* or less, it would really pop/explode when it came on boost. 30* was less popping, but boost came in faster. This brake torquing. 3000 rpm. I still have not really played with it enough to find the sweet spot.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:25 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by veee8
And with 20* or less, it would really pop/explode when it came on boost. 30* was less popping, but boost came in faster. This brake torquing. 3000 rpm. I still have not really played with it enough to find the sweet spot.
Try adding more timing, Autos usually love timing on two steps. I'd try 35-45 degrees initially and start tapering off a 1-2 degrees per psi. As long as it's not detonating it's OK. With an auto it shouldn't pop much.

How much boost are you building at 3000?
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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I would only hold it for a couple of seconds, 3-4 psi or so. This was in the shop, so not ideal. I will do some testing out on the open road, and let you know.
Now that I think of it, the big popping in neutral and on the 2-step.
Was planning on 35* of timing and going from there.
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