turbo KR* question
turbo KR* question im getting knock retard up to 4 degrees while on boost. afr is 10.8-11.5 and IAT is 60 degrees. im curently only on 4 pounds of boost and i have pulled timing all the way down to 6 degrees trying to avoid it. i set my meth to come in earlier to see if it would help and it didnt change a thing. ive looked the car over and havent found anything that might be hitting to cause the problem. is it a bad idea to turn down knock sensitivity ? do many people have to do this?
the car seems to fall on its face a little when it starts making boost and miss, i would imagine this has to do with the 6 degrees of timing but i am scared to turn it up till i figure out whats causing the knock
thanks
the car seems to fall on its face a little when it starts making boost and miss, i would imagine this has to do with the 6 degrees of timing but i am scared to turn it up till i figure out whats causing the knock
thanks
sounds like "phantom knock" the knock sensor(s) are either bad or have water intrusion(assuming a Gen III) or the knock sensors are picking up some kind of vibration or noise. More info on what this motor is/in?
I had a max of 8* of KR being pulled from my truck on the dyno from 4500rpm+. All caused by a bad u joint and pinion flange.
I had a max of 8* of KR being pulled from my truck on the dyno from 4500rpm+. All caused by a bad u joint and pinion flange.
its a 99 t/a
home built tc 76 kit
air to water IC
stock long block with springs and pushrods
ls6 intake
60 lb mototrons
i havent really seen any trends as far as when it does it, it will just spike up for a couple of cells and then be gone.
assuming it is false knock how should i do away with it withought doing away with the real thing?
i havent heard it spark knock once
home built tc 76 kit
air to water IC
stock long block with springs and pushrods
ls6 intake
60 lb mototrons
i havent really seen any trends as far as when it does it, it will just spike up for a couple of cells and then be gone.
assuming it is false knock how should i do away with it withought doing away with the real thing?
i havent heard it spark knock once
its a 99 t/a
home built tc 76 kit
air to water IC
stock long block with springs and pushrods
ls6 intake
60 lb mototrons
i havent really seen any trends as far as when it does it, it will just spike up for a couple of cells and then be gone.
assuming it is false knock how should i do away with it withought doing away with the real thing?
i havent heard it spark knock once
home built tc 76 kit
air to water IC
stock long block with springs and pushrods
ls6 intake
60 lb mototrons
i havent really seen any trends as far as when it does it, it will just spike up for a couple of cells and then be gone.
assuming it is false knock how should i do away with it withought doing away with the real thing?
i havent heard it spark knock once
BTW I didi have alot of trouble with false knock on a 99 silverado I tuned, I went crazy trying to figure out if it was real or not before I doubled the attack and cut the gain in half. I just dindnt want to assume it was false before I desensatized the knock sensors.
Sounds like false knock which is very common on alot of FI cars. It's up to you if you make them less sensative or even shut them off.
On my personal Vette with a stock motor and 14lbs I shut off the KR sensors because sometimes it would KR like crazy for no reason.Drove/raced the car for a long time like that. My Avalanche truck with a stock 5.3 and turbo also had the KR sensors shut off and was like that for 35k miles,even while towing and it still has the same motor today.Both vehicles tuned OLSD
The point is- KR sensors are over rated IF you know your tuning and can sence a problem with the car if something is wrong.
On my personal Vette with a stock motor and 14lbs I shut off the KR sensors because sometimes it would KR like crazy for no reason.Drove/raced the car for a long time like that. My Avalanche truck with a stock 5.3 and turbo also had the KR sensors shut off and was like that for 35k miles,even while towing and it still has the same motor today.Both vehicles tuned OLSD
The point is- KR sensors are over rated IF you know your tuning and can sence a problem with the car if something is wrong.
i zeroed out the burst knock once to see if that was it, still happned.
once i backed it off to 6 degrees around the torque peak and it took out 4 still.
thanks for the input guys, i might try to make it a little less sensitive tommorrow, i dont see how there is any way im getting real knock at 4 psi with a 10.8:1 afr and meth.
anyone know how much i should cut it back so that it still will catch real knock or have a better idea?
once i backed it off to 6 degrees around the torque peak and it took out 4 still.
thanks for the input guys, i might try to make it a little less sensitive tommorrow, i dont see how there is any way im getting real knock at 4 psi with a 10.8:1 afr and meth.
anyone know how much i should cut it back so that it still will catch real knock or have a better idea?
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Had a turbo car of similar setup have false knock forever - Only way to get rid of it was to change the PCM - same tune, diff pcm no knock. Changed back, car knocks again.
Make sure its false- then figure out how to tune it accordingly.
Make sure its false- then figure out how to tune it accordingly.
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Yes and no, Ive fought every KR table, every AFR and every advance like the OP. Its not uncommon to desensitize or completely disable KR like slowhawk said. Rick at Synergy confirmed my thoughts, as did a few others.
There is a lot of stuff moved, changed, close quarters to and in with a turbo kit. 5 pounds of trash in a 1 pound bag. Phantom knock is bound to happen. Hell, it happened with the factory Y pipes banging on the floor board!
There is a lot of stuff moved, changed, close quarters to and in with a turbo kit. 5 pounds of trash in a 1 pound bag. Phantom knock is bound to happen. Hell, it happened with the factory Y pipes banging on the floor board!