NA$TY-TA

iTrader: (21)

After reading this... i see your HP goal....

The real question is that hasnt been asked yet and should be asked 1st is....

What kind of budget are you working with??

I hope its $25K plus......

Thats what its going to take easy... esp if a shop will be doing the work..... if then... $30K+

Kyle

navymitch12

iTrader: (1)

Lets hope your right haha...

I should be putting my 427 on the dyno here soon with 16psi!

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

The 62's are billet 62mm...PTE....conventional design, not ETT. That is BW.[/QUOTE]

Here's the only decent link I know of on this HP6262 turbo:

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/300-6262


Maybe I am in way over my head. But I was considering upgrading to the Invincible because it may only cost me like $900 (just to throw a number out there, I don't know the real amount) more to upgrade my Level II to an Invincible, where it would cost me $3,300 more to upgrade to a 4L80E. So that's around $2,400 more for the 4L80E. Money I don't want to spend if the Invincible does the job, but if it's not going to do the job then I know I'll have to be getting into spending the money on the 4L80E instead. I haven't looked deeply into this so that's why I said what I said. I just don't make the kind of money to throw the best of the best of everything possible in the car all at once, so I have to pretty much take care of those things as they become an issue. Otherwise, to do everything the "right" way, I'd be looking at spending $30k just to make this a reliable, 9-second car. Not alot of us have that kind of money haha.

As far as the IRS goes, yeah that too may need to be changed with a solid rear. But it should hopefully survive some time under high boost so my high boost usage will mainly out on the highway. I don't plan on trying to pull 1.3-1.4 60' launches with this setup. I've done TONS of low 1.5 60' launches on the stock rear... I just don't see much more stress, if any more stress, on the rear while leaving the hole slower that previously. When the time comes to worry about it if upgrading my IRS isn't going to work then I'll do a solid rear. Until then, I gotta save my money for whatever fails or is ready to fail next.

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

As I mentioned in my last post I don't have a budget allowance for doing all of this at once. It'll take 2-3 years to collect the money to make it capable of 1,000 RWHP reliably. Once I get the immediate turbo setup out of the way within the next few months (hopefully), I'll be looking at spreading out probably another $15k+ over the around 2 years to get the drivetrain to handle the power and put it to the ground.

My goal of 1,000 RWHP isn't to be accomplished this summer or anything. I'm just trying to make sure the turbos that I choose now are going to be capable of supporting my future goals later down the road.

So with all this talk of driveline upgrades that need to be done set aside, I just am looking to know will my goals be possible with the turbos I'm looking at using. If an HP67xx turbo from Precision should do better on my motor than it did on the 350Z then I don't have a problem spending a little more for the 67mm turbo. But what I don't want is to spend the money on a 67mm Precision turbo if their smaller, HP626x is going to perform better on my car as it did on the 350Z. That's kinda what it comes down to trying to determine.

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

Hm. I'm not sure I know exactly what you're asking (because of my ignorance on this subject)... but here's my attempt at an answer haha. The comparison was done on a 350Z. I don't know the displacement. Not sure if it's a stock cube motor, or what. Couldn't be a big displacement regardless. But if you're saying that if those same turbos were compared on the dyno with a 408 c.i., and that the 67mm would produce MORE power in this larger cube application, then that's very important to know.

Is there any mathematical way to determine this for sure? Will compressor maps tell you guys anything? I haven't seen any maps for these HP series turbos from Precision, nor do I know how to read them, but if they will help then I'll gladly call Precision and ask if they have maps that they could provide me with.

RAACCR

Agreed on the 4l6xe not having a chance...the architecture and hydraulics of a 700r4 based tranny won't hold up to this level, no matter what you do to them. The OP is in denial if he really believes those things can be built to be "invincible". No reputable builder/vendor would recommend & sell such a transmission for a 1300ish flywheel horsepower application.

You need a 4L80e based tranny to keep overdrive. The only converter companies, that I'm aware of, who seem confident about building lock-up converters at this level are PI Vig and Circle D. I went with a 5 disc PI Vig, on the advice of my tranny builder (who routinely builds 2000+ hp monster truck drivelines) for my truck build.

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

How much hp do you have now? Have you ever been in a real 1000+ rwhp car ?
Only ask cause i feel you might be way over your head trying to mod a GTO to this power level. THE GTO is one of the most costly car to make crazy power in. Im not trying to get you down Im way over my first budget for my 1000hp GTO (like 10k over and not even done yet).

But i understand you will be building it over a few years. kind what im doing cause im doing all the work myself. PICK EVERY THING YOU ARE GOING TO PUT IN THE CAR AT THE END. PRICE THAT. Then build it and dont cut corners where it will hurt you in the long run.

Pick the base engine first then stick with it. Do you care about handling then dont put a iron block in the gto plus that will make trac issues worse

So a 427 id say = tc76 turbos higher engine compression would be sweet very little lag. crazy power. pretty much what im doing
402 id go with at least a 67 turbo Dont compare turbos from other engines or combs that arent what you are building. What people are saying the 67 flow better at a higher cfm at a lower pressure. When the pressure gets up there they start to lose some efficiency

I store 55 gals drums of race fuel at my house and just fill up my car there when i go out and play. My store of race gas and meth is close to the cost of just your tran upgrade cost. So make sure you know how your going to build it and what will be needed to run it when done.

**** breaks fast and even quicker at 1000+hp In a split sec one broken part and take out thousands of dollars in other parts.

ALTRDTA

iTrader: (69)

I'm sure you understand the whole transmission issue now but I am going to tell you that when I contacted my transmission builder (not a sponsor but VERY reputable) I told him that I plan to eventually hit around 1200rwhp with my car. He told me that he rated the 80e that I have to 1200 flywheel and that he's not certain that it'd hold the power I'm looking to put down. But he did say if it ends up blowing to send it to him to see what actually failed. I'm not sure that he has had one fail as he didn't tell me that but he is skeptical of any 80e holding more then 1200fwhp...

BigRich954RR

iTrader: (1)

Just saw this I hope the 15k does not include your motor. I have close to that in just my 1300hp capable short block and fuel system


You cant pick the turbos till you pick your motor and car set up. I do alot of highway rolls. Ive snapped a axle on a highway roll. IF you want to talk about shitting myself
400hp GTO =fun little money
600hp GTO avg money
800hp GTO avg money but getting up there fast
900-1000hp GTO lots of money everything needed will cost alot
1000+HP i just dont even look at the bills any more.

How far off 95 are you ? I might be driving down to Parris Island SC .

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Making dyno numbers, and keeping the heads on for 1320 feet in a 4000 lb car are two different thing. Always better with more head gasket retention.

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Here's the only decent link I know of on this HP6262 turbo:

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/300-6262

Maybe I am in way over my head. But I was considering upgrading to the Invincible because it may only cost me like $900 (just to throw a number out there, I don't know the real amount) more to upgrade my Level II to an Invincible, where it would cost me $3,300 more to upgrade to a 4L80E. So that's around $2,400 more for the 4L80E. Money I don't want to spend if the Invincible does the job, but if it's not going to do the job then I know I'll have to be getting into spending the money on the 4L80E instead. I haven't looked deeply into this so that's why I said what I said. I just don't make the kind of money to throw the best of the best of everything possible in the car all at once, so I have to pretty much take care of those things as they become an issue. Otherwise, to do everything the "right" way, I'd be looking at spending $30k just to make this a reliable, 9-second car. Not alot of us have that kind of money haha.

As far as the IRS goes, yeah that too may need to be changed with a solid rear. But it should hopefully survive some time under high boost so my high boost usage will mainly out on the highway. I don't plan on trying to pull 1.3-1.4 60' launches with this setup. I've done TONS of low 1.5 60' launches on the stock rear... I just don't see much more stress, if any more stress, on the rear while leaving the hole slower that previously. When the time comes to worry about it if upgrading my IRS isn't going to work then I'll do a solid rear. Until then, I gotta save my money for whatever fails or is ready to fail next. [/QUOTE]


A 4l60E will NOT hold that kind of power reliably. If someone calls their transmission "invincible" they havent been in the racing business very long. Ive seen $4500 4L60s take a dump. Hell Ive seen $7000 automatics hurt stuff in cars making hundreds of hp less than they were intended for

A 4L80E, or the like is what your going to end up looking at if you want OD and lockup

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Build an engine that makes 500 rwhp, and add 15#s and itll make near 1000.

If it were me Id build motor, fuel system, get it in car and make sure its making power it should. Once driveline set, add turbo kit, turn it up slowly and youll keep suprises at bay. I get boost cars all the time that dont make the power they should, 500-600 on 15#s, and they wonder why. First thing I do is run them NA, and when I see a 408 inch motor make 215 to the tire, all the boost in the world wont polish that terd.

deuce_454

here is a nice page in the matter
http://www.turbomalibu.com/dualfuelsystem.htm

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Done very often really. Yuor going to need 120#+ worth of injector

You can do some trickery and do it with stock PCM, but Id be using an aftermarket system from the get go to allow you to do so easier if the need arises.

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

Well for the motor, I'd be looking at spending around $4,500 on the forged shortblock. Probably another $2,300-$2,600 on fully-assembled heads I assume. But that totally depends on what heads I get and all obviously.

I'm not awfully close to I-95. My two closest ways to it are North of me near the exit to I-495 (the Beltway), or South of me near the exit to Kings Dominion in Virginia. Both routes for me take about 1.5 hours or so to get to.

If you're driving the Goat down or something I'd definitely be up for meeting you and taking a ride in it.

Right now the Maggie is off the car, and I'm not driving it..... but it put down 508 rwhp on a Dynapack dyno.... so that's somewhere in the neck of the woods of 630 crank horsepower. So yeah, if I'm not in over my head (which maybe after more thought, I might be), I would be doubling the power I had.


That's definitely a good way to go about this, but I want the boost now so I can have some fun again. If I do the engine first, then I'll be putting around for over a year on a low-compression, N/A turd lol.

I mean, I would guestimate a 408 with heads and cam spec'd for a turbo setup should put down around 500 rwhp through something like the 4L80E. I'm not too familair with what alot of other LSx cars have done, but I know of several stock displacement LS2 GTO's putting down close to 500 rwhp through a fairly aggressive heads and cam setup on an M6. I would figure the bigger cubes of the 408, although with a turbo cam and auto trans, should still get in that neck of the woods.


Great thanks for the link! I'm gonna read about that over the weekend.

MEAN GTO

iTrader: (1)

On another note, if I indeed am in it way over my head with this future 1,000 rwhp goal.... what kind of power might I expect around 18-20 PSI with a forged 364-370 c.i. aluminum or iron block using twin 62mm turbos? What about the same variables but on a 408 c.i. block???

I don't hit corners fast in the car or plan on any auto-crossing, so I'm not sure how bad and where exactly an iron block will affect my handling. If I ever cross into 1.4 60's later when I forge the motor I'm sure an iron block might keep absense of front wheel contact on the launch, which I think would be pretty cool to eventually get a tire or two off the ground if I happen to cut low 60's again, but other than that how well the weight of an iron block really hinder things?

deuce_454

it really wont matter if its 800 ir 1100 rwhp... you will be beyond the traction limitations of ANY street tire in all but high gear with a 36+ engine at 18 pounds of boost.... period! 1000 Hp is just for bragging rights... and an iron block will add 85 pounds, and so will the turbo system.... thats 170+ pounds over the front wheels, it will hurt cornering, no question... but stiffer rate rollbar and springs will compensate for the handling woes...

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Not a chance will a 4l80e low compression 408 put down 500 rwhp, unless your spending alot of coin. More than $4000 shortblock and $2400 heads.

Circle-D

iTrader: (21)

Thought I would chime in on the converter.

No way possible will the 4L60 hold that power. Period. It would be a total waste of money to even try. The only GM OD trans that will is the 4L80 and it even needs to be upgraded quite a bit. We can build a converter for you, probably suggest a 10.25" or a 10.5" depending on how the turbos spool and with a multi disk for the lock up. If you decide to go through with the project, give me a call, I can help point you in the right direction for the driveline.

713-895-8834

Chris

HUNTER02SS

iTrader: (24)

On my first motor setup, I had a 377ci motor. 6litre iron block, stock crank, h-beam rods and forged pistons.A few other things were done as well, but with a set of AFR 225cc heads and my 2 60-1 turonetics turbos, I made a max of 1089rwhp. You will push water with a 4 bolt setup eventually.For your shortblock, you would need a higher budget to make it last. That motor cost me around 9grand, my new motor (427LSX with ETP 265cc heads) is costing me around 15grand! You should reall search all the parts you are going to need and then rationalize about it. You don't want to spend the money but one time, on the right parts the first time.