anyone boosted a high mileage motor?
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Just like the title says, has anyone added FI to a high mileage motor? How did it work out for you? I know it is probably a bad idea all together, just curious if anyone has had any luck with it.
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condition of the motor is more important than mileage. leak down test and compression check it. if you like what you see, boost away if not rebuild it for more boost. the tune will be your saving grace, if its good you can go on for a long time with no issues. i think most failures are more user related then mechanical anyway.
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I need to do a compression and leakdown on my car to see how it looks. It runs amazing, and doesn't burn much oil at all. Uses 1 quart in 5,000. Always used synthetic oil. Im looking at a used vortech sc that was installed in a transam for a few thousand miles.
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http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=55
I bought my '99 Z28 back in '02 with 110,000 miles on it. We put a ProCharger D-1SC on it, and at 125,000 miles we upped the boost to 15 psi for the hell of it. It lasted longer than we thought it would and it saw some street use and made the rounds of several different dragstrips. Bob
I bought my '99 Z28 back in '02 with 110,000 miles on it. We put a ProCharger D-1SC on it, and at 125,000 miles we upped the boost to 15 psi for the hell of it. It lasted longer than we thought it would and it saw some street use and made the rounds of several different dragstrips. Bob
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My junk yard 5.3 probably came out of a 100k+ truck. 15psi and a 50 shot on it going on 3 years...and still running like a dream. But engines dont travel miles so mileage is meaninless. Who knows if the engine came from a truck with 4.10 gears and did nothing but haul heavy loads or if it came from a highway cruiser? I have a vette with 150k miles on it and it runs and drives like new. Mileage is a form of measurement to use for warranties...thats about it. My Transam has 120k on it and has already had the engine rebuilt, tranny rebuilt and on its 3rd rear end.... so what does mileage tell ya?? Not a damn thing.
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Granted I just got mine done for the most part its a 90K motor on 5-6lbs but it is taking it well..though looks like the PCV system is enjoying to lay oil all over the engine bay, thats the only fix to come so far
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and if you want some more safty for your shortblock get some 317 heads (heads of an lq9 or an lq4) gm mls head gaskets, better valve spring to prevent valve float, harder push rods, dual roller, high flow oil pump, upgrade the fuel pump to a walbro 255 at least, arp head studs. that is what i have, i just need to make some time to install it all.
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140,000+ here on a T70 Fed 5.3 Bone Stock,(except ls6 cam and springs) heads never been off. Ran all last summer at 10 psi, with a couple runs as high as 14 psi. Added Meth and Nitrous over the winter and tuning up to 15psi.
We got another 5.3, an LS1 and an LQ9 on the backburner Just in case....
We got another 5.3, an LS1 and an LQ9 on the backburner Just in case....
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Just a heads up that guy hasn't been on the site in over two years. I would do a search on LT1 and blowby, and if you don't find what you need start a thread. I would imagine first would be to check to make sure your not pressurizing the crank case as boosted cars will do.
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I took an old take out 4.8, came from a high hours work truck: 2004 I think... Unknown miles, but PLENTY of'em paid $600 for the motor.
Put on a Magnuson TVS1900 at 11 PSI, drove it through half of Canada, to Texas and back, the LONG way ( 10,000 miles in 21 days.) back in 2017.
On the Texas trip, I ran 7000 miles 'til oil change, 6 quarts came out CLEAN in a NAPA parking lot around Ashland Oregon.
It's been a regular driver since, no problems. I drive it HARD all the time, and oil consumption is as close to ZERO as I have ever seen.
After 4000 miles, of regular commuting I will have about a shot glass of clean, slightly milky oil in the catch can.
6 Quarts goes in, and I drain damn near 6 quarts out.
around 221,000 miles on the Tahoe now. 4.56 gears, so the little 4.8 gets PLENTY of revolutions- haha.
............................short stroke likes SHORT gears.....................
Put on a Magnuson TVS1900 at 11 PSI, drove it through half of Canada, to Texas and back, the LONG way ( 10,000 miles in 21 days.) back in 2017.
On the Texas trip, I ran 7000 miles 'til oil change, 6 quarts came out CLEAN in a NAPA parking lot around Ashland Oregon.
It's been a regular driver since, no problems. I drive it HARD all the time, and oil consumption is as close to ZERO as I have ever seen.
After 4000 miles, of regular commuting I will have about a shot glass of clean, slightly milky oil in the catch can.
6 Quarts goes in, and I drain damn near 6 quarts out.
around 221,000 miles on the Tahoe now. 4.56 gears, so the little 4.8 gets PLENTY of revolutions- haha.
............................short stroke likes SHORT gears.....................
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GEN III's are iffy I think because of the weaker rods. Otherwise I think they are about the same as the GEN IV 24x reluctor.
For what it's worth for future searchers, my prior L33 was 150k engine from a junkyard $500, had a slight knock when cold- should have returned it but didn't, DD drove for maybe 6 months and during a 14PSI pull it made the knock permanent (was a spun bearing I believe from prior owner not keeping oil clean/changed). On the stand now and will polish one crank journal and replace one bearing, everything else still looks great.
Current L33 is another ~150k $500 junkyard engine, has been doing fine in spite of me burning a hole in a piston during a low fuel pressure event at the track. Swapped piston while engine still in car using original rings and bearings and rod, still holding up at 10-12 PSI daily driving. Planning on turning up to 14PSI when track opens this spring.
Only modification for each was better valve springs to overcome boost. Nothing else touched.
I think as long as the cylinder bores look OK and "if" you can pull one rod cap off to inspect one bearing (try to not let the magic out!), I'd boost just about any high mileage factory built LS single digit PSI, even higher than 150k IMO.
For what it's worth for future searchers, my prior L33 was 150k engine from a junkyard $500, had a slight knock when cold- should have returned it but didn't, DD drove for maybe 6 months and during a 14PSI pull it made the knock permanent (was a spun bearing I believe from prior owner not keeping oil clean/changed). On the stand now and will polish one crank journal and replace one bearing, everything else still looks great.
Current L33 is another ~150k $500 junkyard engine, has been doing fine in spite of me burning a hole in a piston during a low fuel pressure event at the track. Swapped piston while engine still in car using original rings and bearings and rod, still holding up at 10-12 PSI daily driving. Planning on turning up to 14PSI when track opens this spring.
Only modification for each was better valve springs to overcome boost. Nothing else touched.
I think as long as the cylinder bores look OK and "if" you can pull one rod cap off to inspect one bearing (try to not let the magic out!), I'd boost just about any high mileage factory built LS single digit PSI, even higher than 150k IMO.
Last edited by mk3cn4; 03-20-2024 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Buzzard (03-20-2024)