TTT

 

How about having some custom pulleys made that have taller side flanges on them? That should keep the belt from walking off.

 

I was thinking the same thing as Nineball.

 

I was wondering why no one thought of that before. It's come to mind but figured it had been tried so I never suggested

 

Hey Bos, what type of idler setup do you have? My thinking is perhaps if you had the steel idler and increased belt speed due to the pully setup as well as increased surface friction by the 8 rib configuration, that you are getting increased heat on the idler. There have been a couple of steel idler pullies that have melted bearings. I know when my idler pully came lose it shreaded a belt in no time. Perhaps either the idler bearings have gone bad or the idler itself is loose, or both. Just an idea.

Mike

 

Isn't the steel idler supposed to be the "better" upgrade....I will have Speed check all of that too to make sure that isn't the culprit..

Thanks for the imput....

 

BIGBOS

I would definatly check the idler. I have change the bearings in mine twice due to heat failure. I have the steel idler.

 

brian I have a different tentioner pulley, here are my pics of the set up on my car..

www.scottytoohottie.com

 

What kind of tensioner pulley is it?

Where did you get it?

 

the picture of the pulley isn't that clear, is it similar to the stock ATI set up or isit totally different?

scott, what diameter is your crank pulley?

 

no offense nineball, thats a good idea in "theory" but it would be a really bad band-aid IMO.

That is like like increasing your fuel pressure to 90psi to lower your duty cycles to 90% from 100% if that makes sense.
You wouldn't be fixing the problem you would just be trying to "get around it." Then you run into issues of tearing up belts.

It HAS to be an alignment issue. Maybe the pulleys ARE perfectly aligned but maybe you need to offset them, ever try that? I know on my old procharger setup i had to offset them a bit to keep the belt on (8 rib)

 

off set them as in having the pullies on parallel planes or have them pointing at eachother with an angle? ( -- __ or \ /)

 

I know I'm not experienced with the blower cars, but...

Have you thought of doing a slow motion video of the car on the dyno, and watching it to see the belt flex, or perhaps exactly where the belt initially comes off the pulleys? You could do a shot from each side, one on top and one from the front?

Nothing can replace an actual hard data stream...

Just a thought.

SC-

 

John - good point, but if you are running the Gatorback belts, at $26 each, things add up in a hurry!

A friend will be trying the cog setup very soon and we will let you guys know how it works.

 

Well the steel pully doesn't wear down like it's aluminum counterpart, so in that respect is better. But recently I have heard that due to steel being heavier it creates more heat. On the smaller 6 rib <8# setups, it's been known to melt the bearings. But I was thinking maybe with your setup, the heat is effecting the belts.

I mean the obvious first place to check is alignment. But you said you and speed inc. checked it thoroughly and the alignment was straight. So I'm thinking what else it might be. Check it out and let us know what you find.

Mike

 

Where would I be able to get one of those steel idler pulleys?

 

camarogod98 on the board, he's not a sponsor but helped a ton of us ATI guys out. PM him and maybe he can make you one. His quality is top notch
J

 

Thank you, I sent him a PM, hopefully he gets back to me soon, I need to get this beast up and running again...

 

www.sd-concepts.com

I was doing some reading on CZ28.com, came upon this site that makes custom tensioners for the ATI kits, anyone running one of these?

 

TTT please