Who all has disabled Burst Knock?
08-12-2011, 01:02 AM
#41
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still getting knock.... ive tried playing with the VE tables spark tables but still gettin knock. Any suggestions. I probably need to change the plugs Ive made a few passes on them and what not. do you think that will have a big impact on things?
08-12-2011, 10:28 PM
#45
Guys question that might be related to some of this knock stuff. I just got my ERL 427 and LGs up and running have around 350 miles on it now and its generally running great but have been sometimes seeing a PO327 knock sensor code. I erase it and it stays away usually for quite awhile but still seems to come back. I am pretty sure have the knock sensor harnesses snapped onto the sensors and not seeing any burnt wiring.I can't really get to the connectors on the back of the engine anymore to check there.
Can this be due to being too sensitive now? I relocated them to side of the block since went to ls3 core on the ERL. Used the extension harnesses.
Also on the running of 80lb injectors have to try your fuel setting thing. the .002.If you want to share files with me that would be great as well.
I have been getting around the 80s by running open loop all the time and running 3 bar SD of course. With hptuners stock ecu. The 80s will idle fine in open loop sd not to far off 14.7. I had issues with horrible off idle bog when was trying to get them to idle before and was trying Greg Banish dvd data etc with no real luck but didn't try that .002 thing. Gregs data was great on the 60s that was running previously.I still also have some 120 low impedence and they idle perfect and are easy to tune for. I may put them back but for now haven't. Its cluttered already under my hood and another box and harness stuff makes it even more cluttered.
I may try those expensive high impedence injectors at some point in future.
Can this be due to being too sensitive now? I relocated them to side of the block since went to ls3 core on the ERL. Used the extension harnesses.
Also on the running of 80lb injectors have to try your fuel setting thing. the .002.If you want to share files with me that would be great as well.
I have been getting around the 80s by running open loop all the time and running 3 bar SD of course. With hptuners stock ecu. The 80s will idle fine in open loop sd not to far off 14.7. I had issues with horrible off idle bog when was trying to get them to idle before and was trying Greg Banish dvd data etc with no real luck but didn't try that .002 thing. Gregs data was great on the 60s that was running previously.I still also have some 120 low impedence and they idle perfect and are easy to tune for. I may put them back but for now haven't. Its cluttered already under my hood and another box and harness stuff makes it even more cluttered.
I may try those expensive high impedence injectors at some point in future.
08-13-2011, 02:34 AM
#48
Maybe it is just too hot right now and you are seeing real knock.
Only way to honest to god narrow it all the way down to real knock is to run straight race gas. If it knocks with your current settings then it's real knock and you need to back the timing down. That should eliminate all fuel variables.
Only way to honest to god narrow it all the way down to real knock is to run straight race gas. If it knocks with your current settings then it's real knock and you need to back the timing down. That should eliminate all fuel variables.
08-14-2011, 08:23 PM
#49
Maybe its not real knock at all, could be a vibration or something hitting something making the knock sensors believe its knock. I have tuned quite a few vehicles and 2 that I have tuned had were bone stock, and knocked the same amount even with fresh gas, plugs, & -4* from the stock timing tables. Ended up having the cut back the gain on the sensors, both are running great and have been for a few years now. Not saying this is for sure his problem, merely a suggestion.
I can say from my personal experience also that a suspension with hyme joints can cause the knock sensors to pick it up as knock. When I went with my full MadMan rear suspension it got rid of all the rubber bushings and I couldnt gas on it or hit a bump without the computer picking it up as knock. That was before I went turbo and was running a 150 wet shot, being a careful tuner you dont have to rely on knock sensors.
I can say from my personal experience also that a suspension with hyme joints can cause the knock sensors to pick it up as knock. When I went with my full MadMan rear suspension it got rid of all the rubber bushings and I couldnt gas on it or hit a bump without the computer picking it up as knock. That was before I went turbo and was running a 150 wet shot, being a careful tuner you dont have to rely on knock sensors.
08-15-2011, 10:05 AM
#52
To cut them back you got to "Engine, Spark, Retard" Then under "Knock Retard Attack" go to the ECT Gain & cut that table in half, then just above it Under "Decay Rate" multiply that table by 2. It would be a good idea to first try yanking 2* where your seeing knock first before desensitizing the knock sensors just incase it is real knock. I'll look at the log & get back to you, where is your most current tune posted?
08-15-2011, 01:13 PM
#53
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my most current tune is posted here at post 66.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...d-knock-4.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...d-knock-4.html
08-15-2011, 05:26 PM
#54
my most current tune is posted here at post 66.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...d-knock-4.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...d-knock-4.html
