Popping and backfing under boost
Compression is 10.8 static.. yes I know its high, but thats what I prefer, as long as there is no knock. I haven't ran into any detonation problems with timing set at 10-12 degrees wot. I have a set of 317's that I plan on using and that should bring down to about 9.8. It's not much but it'll give me a little more wiggle room to work with.
Last edited by SuperC1; Apr 13, 2009 at 05:49 PM.
A set of those may be in order then. I spoke with Jose at forced inductions and Lonnie at Lonnies performance today and they both agree that there is an emissions issue. One walbro 255 should be good for about 550-600 rwhp before there's a noticable pressure drop. So plugs, wires and coil packs should all be suspect. Lonnie recommended finding the problem before adding the twin pumps. I guess my next question is which would be better a set of MSD's or a set of 6.0 truck coil packs, anybody have any bad luck with either?
Last edited by SuperC1; Apr 13, 2009 at 05:50 PM.
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A set of those may be in order then. I spoke with Jose at forced inductions and Lonnie at Lonnies performance today and they both agree that there is an emissions issue. One walbro 255 should be good for about 550-600 rwhp before there's a noticable pressure drop. So plugs, wires and coil packs should all be suspect. Lonnie recommended finding the problem before adding the twin pumps. I guess my next question is which would be better a set of MSD's or a set of 6.0 truck coil packs, anybody have any bad luck with either?
I've got a custom cut set of universal 90* MSD 8.5mm's on my car. They were used and came with my kit. They've been off/on several times and have started to wear. I've noticed in particular the wire ends not wanting to grab the plug end effectively at all. I had to use some needle nose plyers and squeeze the ends so they'd connect better. A new set is on my list of things to buy in the not too distant future. Definitely buy new wires before you do coils as they may be unnecessary. You might also pull all the wires and check the actual wire to see how much resistance you're seeing with a meter on them.
I dunno if you've looked into it or if this will help. My 300zx TT did that too, drove fun out of boost, did alright rolling into it sometimes, and popped and sputtered like hell when mashing the throttle. I had an injector that wasn't seated all the way and it was leaking a little bit of fuel out of it making the car run lean.
Is the fuel pressure dropping? It seems like its adding to much in the pe tables. It blew black smoke wich is fuel out the exhaust. I think its dumping and leaning at the same time also where is your map sensor at. I run a 2bar sd also but I have a vic jr. I know when I put that sensor in a fast 90/90 it was way loose and would leak. make sure that map is tight in the hole and dont leak.
Is the fuel pressure dropping? It seems like its adding to much in the pe tables. It blew black smoke wich is fuel out the exhaust. I think its dumping and leaning at the same time also where is your map sensor at. I run a 2bar sd also but I have a vic jr. I know when I put that sensor in a fast 90/90 it was way loose and would leak. make sure that map is tight in the hole and dont leak.
Compression is 10.8 static.. yes I know its high, but thats what I prefer, as long as there is no knock. I haven't ran into any detonation problems with timing set at 10-12 degrees wot. I have a set of 317's that I plan on using and that should bring down to about 9.8. It's not much but it'll give me a little more wiggle room to work with.
I'm only running a 7lb spring rite now but it starts popping at about 4.
If you are only running 7lbs then definetly you do not have enough timing at 10-12 degrees, Up to 7 lbs you should be running at least a min of 18-20 degrees. If you want to be safe try upping the timing at 2 degree intervals and see what happens...
It had it up to 15 at one point, then I backed it down, I may give it a try at 18 and see what happens. 20 seems like it could be dangerous with my compression.