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Procharger problems and reliability poll

There are a few that had some issues that could have been real.. But who know what happened for real Like the guy that lives a few miles from me said his blower blew up ( i helped install it ) I go look at it well He changed his piping and air filter and sucked the piping into the blower by forgetting to tight a hoses clamp. O he was pissed so he lie because He wanted it to be under warranty but I could see what happen to the impeller by looking at it and the messed up pipe. Im guess so could the maker of the unit he called and bitch to the maker. Im not sure what ever happened with it . But not the makers fault again
Last edited by BigRich954RR; Apr 22, 2009 at 05:19 PM.
Many companies do have different revisions like magnacharger for example. fourth gen,fifth gen...
I see no reason for all those guys giving those reviews I linked to lie but some of those reviews were pretty old. Some were not that old however. I bought my aps kit and read on their website how the turbos were bulletproof and now finding maybe not. So just because procharger claims they are reliable and all that still want to hear it from people that are actually running them. And so far its looking pretty good.
I have been in two procharged cars near stock lt1 fourth gen and near stock ls1 with d1. Both were pretty impressive ,the ls1 was auto and needed a stall to get going or some more gearing. The lt1 was six speed and blew up when guy tried to tighen up the slipping belt too much. Engine was stock. He sold the kit so never did see it work with built motor.
What is lowest psi pulley I can get to run on my 96z28 with ps1sc or d1sc. I will have mac headers, CC305 cam,trick flow or afr 180 heads and would run the super for a few years at low boost then build a 383 or 396 all forged engine. I don't want to be blowing up the engine. Buddy blew his at think around 8 or 9psi on his p1sc setup stock bottom.
He is a good tuner so dont' think it was tune.
So what pulley choices? Are pulleys quick to change out?
What is lowest psi pulley I can get to run on my 96z28 with ps1sc or d1sc. I will have mac headers, CC305 cam,trick flow or afr 180 heads and would run the super for a few years at low boost then build a 383 or 396 all forged engine. I don't want to be blowing up the engine. Buddy blew his at think around 8 or 9psi on his p1sc setup stock bottom.
He is a good tuner so dont' think it was tune.
So what pulley choices? Are pulleys quick to change out?
How much boost the blower can produce depends on many variables.
* Cubic inch. The larger the engine the less boost it will make with a P-1SC.
* Headers and exhaust. A better flowing system will produce less boost, requires a smaller pulley to regain the loss in boost. Ultimately though, more power will be gained.
* Camshaft and heads. A camshaft with some overlap will leak out some boost through the valves. Better flowing heads react a lot like a better flowing exhaust system.
* Altitude. Elevation plays a big part in how much boost is produced. Those people living in the higher elevations have to spin the blower harder to see boost.
* Condition of engine. An engine with real good sealing rings will ultimately produce more boost than one with worn rings.
* Rpm. An engine that is spun up higher in the rpm range will normally produce more boost.
Bob
Finding a good tuner, installing a cooling system that can handle the extreme under hood temps and IAT's, buying or fabbing a good FMIC along with all of the suspension and chassis parts you will need to handle the rwhp will be the issues you will spend the most money and time on if you do this yourself.
But you have an advantage. There is a big knowledge base now with lots of information, better software, better tuners, good fmic kits, good methanol kits, and more than one choice for oversize radiators in addition to lots of used parts compared to us poor souls who preceded you in the last 4-5 years trying this and trying that.
Built it right and it will last a long time.
PS: If you live in a very hot area of the US - do your research on cooling systems and do it all at once rather than piecemeal.
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Here is that link of customer reviews..
http://www.carreview.com/mfr/prochar...5_2877crx.aspx
Procharger makes awesome products and they keep getting better. I bought a used Procharger kit with a good amount of miles on it. I bolted it on and away I went. I now have put over 10K miles on it and have had no issues at all.
The car sees consistent 10s on a stock bottom end and 600+rwhp.
They are well made pieces but just like any high stressed, high RPM mechanical part you are going to see some failures. Some are caused by abuse and some are material defects I'm sure. Like anything else the parts you dont manufacture yourself can vary from your specs without notice and by the time you find out its too late and people have problems.
They are well made pieces but just like any high stressed, high RPM mechanical part you are going to see some failures. Some are caused by abuse and some are material defects I'm sure. Like anything else the parts you dont manufacture yourself can vary from your specs without notice and by the time you find out its too late and people have problems.
My D1SC still doesn't have 5000 miles on it but every time I hear the gears churning away at the revolutions they turn per minute you think - geez - how long is this unit going to last.
Mine has that one drop of oil hanging on for dear life at the bottom of head too. I suspect it's working its way out through one of the allen head bolts even though all are tight. Never does make it to the ground though.
My D1SC still doesn't have 5000 miles on it but every time I hear the gears churning away at the revolutions they turn per minute you think - geez - how long is this unit going to last.
Mine has that one drop of oil hanging on for dear life at the bottom of head too. I suspect it's working its way out through one of the allen head bolts even though all are tight. Never does make it to the ground though.
Also if you have the hose hooked up from the valve cover to the hat like the kits come with engine oil will make it into the plenum. It will seep out between the gearbox and cover, there is no seal there. If you have the vent hose hooked up and the oil drop is black and dirty its probably engine oil. If the oil is green and clean its from the blower.
I agree, just listening to them you wouldnt think they wouldnt last long, especially the F1+ blowers with the higher step up. But they are pretty tough..
Last edited by My2kz28; Jun 29, 2009 at 05:36 PM.








