Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

I'm considering the STS or the procharger - the question is, I don't plan on replacing heads/cam/pistons yet, if ever, so I'll be at stock compression. How safe is it with a good tune with their 8psi kit, with said stock internals? Am I pushing it more than it would make people comfortable, for a DD?

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

You can get by for a while on 8psi with a good tune. HOWEVER, in the meantime, you should start considering saving for a forged motor build up. You can wait and find good deals on some pistons and rods. The stock crank is fine for at least 900rwhp. Then, get a set of 317 or 035 truck heads and you will have a motor capable of 700rwhp. It just so happens I have a set of pistons that would be perfect for such a build for sale right now in the FS section https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts...p-pistons.html

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

Except a build up like that won't pass emissions, so I have to pass

got a mighty tight sniffer test to pass

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

I tune more stock procharged LS1's than modded, The main thing is in the tune, upgrade your injectors and possibly a fuel pump, DONT GET Greedy, 500RWHP is the norm but if you funds are limited and are not in the process of building up a forged motor in the future then a good tune and app 450 RWHP should last you for quite a while. I stress a good tune, it doesnt matter if you are running 400 RWHP or 700 RWHP, Bad tune in too much timing, too lean of an A/F will result in a punch in the wallet...

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Main thing on tune is not to run too lean and not to get greedy on timing. I would personally run even lower boost on stock heads like 7psi max or even 5psi. Local guy running sts ls1 with like 5psi and its been fine for couple years. Other guy blew his lt1 sts car from a mistake on boost controller. Stock pistons don't have much safety margin. Ringlands break easily with any mistake.

As said you could run a bit higher on boost say 8 to 10 with 317 heads dropping compression. Alc injection is also a good idea for extra insurance. Would still keep my timing low though.
Greed breaks stock engines.

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

A psi number is not really helpful and means little without supporting documentation. A rwhp # is a better way to gauge how safe it is, or how likely you are to blow it all sky-high. 8psi on a F1A Procharger means something totally different than 8psi on a STS 60-1 compressor. At that level of resistance you are getting 2 completely different volumes of air.

Like I said in the other thread, careful tuning, good fuel, and in your case, strict CARB requirements are going to dictate how successful you are in reaching your goals. Here's my car at 626rwhp on a stock block with a 76mm rear-mount turbo.

GTO Dyno FAIL

T.A.WS6

8psi it's ok, a cam would help. just my opinion. i'm planing on going boost too but at this poin im saving up.

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

Gotcha. Realistically at this point I'm leaning Procharger, with better pushrods and springs, and a better fueling system - but I want to avoid alky/meth injection, since this is a DD. I'd ~like~ to make right at 500rwhp, and keep it there - not planning on going past that.

This is with full bolt-ons as well (catback, longtubes, etc).

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

Wise choices.