Car just doesnt seem to be as fast as it should be...
I just got done with the tuning and everything and took it for a spin, right off the bat I noticed compared to it being N/A it was kind of a dog, but thats to be expected since it has to suck through like 8 feet of 2 inch pipe... so the turbo spools up and it starts pulling like crazy, but in all honesty, I expected it would pull a LOT harder... I havent put the timing to its limits yet, but it should be ~20 degrees and that seems like enough!
On a side note, while my car has been under the knife, I have been riding my R1.... maybe it just feels like a dog because I am used to the R1?
You should really get a boost friendly cam and put the stock manifolds back on to give you more bottom end with the turbo though.
Other guys - I know the cam is not helping the low end, but wouldnt it help with the top end? I have a 224/224 116 cam laying around, maybe Ill throw that in the car to improve drivability, I am not going back to stock manifolds.... mostly cuz I dont have them anymore. Maybe there is a truck manifold y pipe kit or something?
On a side note, I know the car must be making serious power because I went through 5 gallons of gas like NOTHING
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Timing for sure is key but too much on stock engine not a good thinkg. AFr wouldn't go much leaner than 12 to 1. Think 11 to 1 is nice and safe.A bit more boost would help think 7 or so is safe enough still. Then maybe get it dynoed. Confirm you power output.
Most turbo guys do seem to run more higher lsa cams. There are big cam arguments out there so maybe dyno both your cams for us that would be useful info to have.
Would like to see the effects on the powerbands especially.
The headers thing well local sts don't have headers and it seems to have good snap down low.
I think you are mostly just spoiled by your bike. Car power to weight is maybe 1 to 7 assuming 500 engine hp and 3500 pounds with driver for an example. You bike is more like 1 to 4 assuming 150 engine hp to 600 roughly but if its closer to 200 hp then its more like 1 to 3. Huge difference.And bikes feel faster anyway than a car.
Try to sit in passenger seat and let buddy drive it and it may seem much quicker.
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Less timing has advantages,easier on the drivetrain less torque and easier on headgaskets but not a worry at 5psi. I say take it up carefully to 7 or maybe 8 tops unless you put 317 heads on there to drop compression they you could try a bit higher to mabye 10psi and take timing down some maybe to 15 or so. See what that does but dyno is your friend here. Watch scanner like hawk to make sure you aren't getting any knock retard that can really steal away power.
Even check for boost leaks. find way to put a cap over piping and hook up air compressor or use automotive smoke machine.
Sure you will get that car coming around.
I don't think your cam is hurting you unless you are floating the valves. With turbo cars that get street driven a lot I like low lift to avoid float. You should also richen up you WOT tune to 11.0 to keep the engine alive.
Someone in HI must have stock manifolds laying around, you'll not only spool faster but make more power on them due to less back pressure.
Listen to the people on here bro. I've ran that system for almost 3 years and my car was fast with 7.5psi, TRT FMIC, 228/228 .558 .588 115LSA cam and factory manifolds wrapped and coated.

Im gonna do some more tuning, maybe turn the boost up a bit, im really not minding that much where the turbo spools at, i was just expecting a lot more punch from it.
Zombie - I got my hands on some stock manifolds! Damn i work fast
What kinda cam would you recommend? 

