S91 Build FeedBack. Is this Reality?
#21
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I proved it along time ago.
You spout off the same $250 turbo header crap in every thread that brings it up. Do everyone a favor. Build your $250 turbo headers. Sell them for $500. Double your money, be everyones hero, make more $$$$$ than you can spend.
We will all sit back and see how long it lasts.
You spout off the same $250 turbo header crap in every thread that brings it up. Do everyone a favor. Build your $250 turbo headers. Sell them for $500. Double your money, be everyones hero, make more $$$$$ than you can spend.
We will all sit back and see how long it lasts.
Some guys will never learn.....My next set of headers goes like this...
$175 flanges 304ss
$225 for 16 90 degree elbows 304ss
$175 for 304ss collectors(not junk)
$575 in parts alone
$175 flanges 304ss
$225 for 16 90 degree elbows 304ss
$175 for 304ss collectors(not junk)
$575 in parts alone
But your price is more what I see a custom set of headers go for. Thats not outrageous. $1400 is not outrageous for a custom set.....compared to the 2500-3500 posted above.
I just did some searching this spring and got quotes between 2500 and 3500 for tubular headers. The SW stuff looks good though.
#23
7 Second Club
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The elbows are 16g 304SS with 5-6" legs on each end, the collectors are 16g 304SS from cone engineering. They are HVMC but unassembled, look very close to the ones from burns. When I build a set of headers, its no holds barred max performance for the least cost. I am not using a piece of sheetmetal for a set of headers on my 2500hp car or my 600hp street car.
#24
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The weld el's are cast equal to about 12 gauge. Being cast makes them no less of a perfect functioning part. They are thicker and stronger. 16ga on turbo headers in my opinion is thin. But they obviously work for a lot of people. I'd really like to know how they are after many heat/pressure cycles. Im sure it would flex easier with thermal expansion, that would be more prone to cracking. Am i wrong? Wouldnt they also disipate heat easier?
Im not arguing with you, I'd just like to know the logic behind the material selection.
When I build a set of headers, its no holds barred max performance for the least cost.
#26
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That heavy stuff is fine for playing with street cars, but when it goes onto a real race car it is indeed "junk". Sorry.
On a street car it is great to a certain level, just like manifolds. Weight is a huge concern on a race car though. Also when making max hp you will find the short falls of building a cheap manifold quick.
Build a 2500+hp engine with manifolds like that and tell us what the exhaust valves and pistons look like after a few passes. Also tell me what valve springs you are using to keep it together.
A $2500 set of headers cost that much for a very good reason.
On a street car it is great to a certain level, just like manifolds. Weight is a huge concern on a race car though. Also when making max hp you will find the short falls of building a cheap manifold quick.
Build a 2500+hp engine with manifolds like that and tell us what the exhaust valves and pistons look like after a few passes. Also tell me what valve springs you are using to keep it together.
A $2500 set of headers cost that much for a very good reason.
#28
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That heavy stuff is fine for playing with street cars, but when it goes onto a real race car it is indeed "junk". Sorry.
On a street car it is great to a certain level, just like manifolds. Weight is a huge concern on a race car though. Also when making max hp you will find the short falls of building a cheap manifold quick.
A $2500 set of headers cost that much for a very good reason.
On a street car it is great to a certain level, just like manifolds. Weight is a huge concern on a race car though. Also when making max hp you will find the short falls of building a cheap manifold quick.
A $2500 set of headers cost that much for a very good reason.
Build a 2500+hp engine with manifolds like that and tell us what the exhaust valves and pistons look like after a few passes. Also tell me what valve springs you are using to keep it together.
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I wouldn't put that collector and merge section on my turbocharged John deere tractor.
![Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/rolleyes.gif)
....those headers in the bottom pic of yours are not even stainless.
Last edited by pwrtrip75; 06-12-2009 at 02:09 PM.
#30
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And the reason it sounds like you have more $ than brains is because you keep saying the sheetmetal stuff is junk when your whole exhaust is made of it...lol.
I asked a few questions a few posts up and they are all ignored and then everyone just says....oh its junk and you need high dollar stuff.
WHY?
and if your talking about spotting a bad merge what are you referring to? it looks like the pass side tees right into the driv side but the pic is looking down on the elbow, they both actually go directly into the flange. I agree its not perfect or anywhere near it... its a BMW with no room and with AC and accessible spark plugs .
![](http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o216/green461/BMW/DSCN0770.jpg)
#31
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I said you must be buying some cheap *** weld Els. I never said they were junk. I have used Sch 10 pipe on turbo manifolds myself. I just choose to not use Sch 10 pipe to build headers.
I personaly do not care how you build your headers, the material used, or the costs. We apparently play by differnt build practices. I don't mind that Eigther. I just don't like the fact that you cut down what others charge for thier products when you have no idea of the reasons behind it. That is my only issue.
I personaly do not care how you build your headers, the material used, or the costs. We apparently play by differnt build practices. I don't mind that Eigther. I just don't like the fact that you cut down what others charge for thier products when you have no idea of the reasons behind it. That is my only issue.