L19 head studs
07-16-2009, 06:35 AM
#22
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ok i bought my cam from you and talked to you in the past so i respect for opinion.
But
you say 105
and ARP(they made them) say 90-95
why? i have not fired motor yet. so idk if heads will lift. also i dont want the threads to give out in the block. if you really think 105 is the best i can easily torque them down. but you tell me. your the better engine man.
But
you say 105
and ARP(they made them) say 90-95
why? i have not fired motor yet. so idk if heads will lift. also i dont want the threads to give out in the block. if you really think 105 is the best i can easily torque them down. but you tell me. your the better engine man.
07-16-2009, 07:02 AM
#23
well **** this is were doing a build starts to suck.
on one hand i can switch back to normal studs and go to 95ft-lbs and call it a day. but have to try and sell these studs(anyone make offer. i will make it worth your time. like sell these at half price)
and other hand just try and take these to 105ft-lbs and hope block holds up
on one hand i can switch back to normal studs and go to 95ft-lbs and call it a day. but have to try and sell these studs(anyone make offer. i will make it worth your time. like sell these at half price)
and other hand just try and take these to 105ft-lbs and hope block holds up
08-03-2009, 12:35 AM
#24
Im using the L19 head studs, with the standard ARP nuts that came with the package. Last year we torqued them 90-95lbs, can't exactly remember which one. Didn't push any water last year, but also didn't push the car too hard. It only had 18.5 psi, with low compression and low timing.
So today we attempted to install the heads back on my car. Since reading this post, we decided to go to 105lbs. On the third sequence we wanted to go to 95lbs on all the studs and see how it felt, before we attempted to go to 105lbs. Most of them went good, but 3 of them couldn't get past around 85lbs. As you would turn the torque wrench, you would feel it getting a little "mushy". We removed those nuts, and found out that the threads had gotten deformed on those 3 nuts. Guess its time to order those special nuts that Bryan mentioned.
I got a question. Whats the highest any of you guys have torqued down studs on an aluminum block? Can I realy go as high as 120lbs without having to worry about the threads on the block?
Also, what would be the best way to replace just the nuts. Seven of the studs are already torqued down to 95lbs. Can I just replace one of them at a time? Or would I be better off taking all the studs off and starting fresh.
So today we attempted to install the heads back on my car. Since reading this post, we decided to go to 105lbs. On the third sequence we wanted to go to 95lbs on all the studs and see how it felt, before we attempted to go to 105lbs. Most of them went good, but 3 of them couldn't get past around 85lbs. As you would turn the torque wrench, you would feel it getting a little "mushy". We removed those nuts, and found out that the threads had gotten deformed on those 3 nuts. Guess its time to order those special nuts that Bryan mentioned.
I got a question. Whats the highest any of you guys have torqued down studs on an aluminum block? Can I realy go as high as 120lbs without having to worry about the threads on the block?
Also, what would be the best way to replace just the nuts. Seven of the studs are already torqued down to 95lbs. Can I just replace one of them at a time? Or would I be better off taking all the studs off and starting fresh.
Last edited by Jimmy P; 08-03-2009 at 12:42 AM.
10-14-2012, 09:31 PM
#28
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I know this is not a great comparison, but I have built multiple duramax engines for performance purposes. They have 12mm head bolts, the ARP recommended torque on the ARP 2000's for those is 125 ft/lbs...and the L19's are 160+ ft/lbs and some people are machining duramax blocks for 14mm studs, which in ARP 2000's are torqued to 200the ft/lbs...
What are the 1/2" ARP's torqued to?
What are the 1/2" ARP's torqued to?
