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oil smoke advice

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Old 07-23-2009, 03:11 PM
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yeah, not very big at all. that is what i am shooting for, a straight drop out of my turbo and into the can. i ordered a jabsco 23220-2024 (gear pump).

es
Old 07-23-2009, 05:24 PM
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ok me and my buddy were talking as do u think that a check valve would work or does it need a pump for sure?

thanks,
matt
Old 07-23-2009, 08:58 PM
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not sure about the check valve, where are you going to put it? i put a .70 nitrous jet in my feed line and that did not take care of the problem. some people run a check valve between the pan or valve cover and pump to keep the oil from running back into the turbo when the car is off. was digging around in my shop this evening and found a jegs oil catch can (1 pint) i am going to use it for my catch can. just tap the top and bottom and should be good to go. either this will fix the problem or i am pulling the turbo off and going na stroker...
Old 07-23-2009, 09:06 PM
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was thinking about putting the check valve between the turbo and the oil pan, idk if itll work or not but i also want to try a scavenge pump but dont know where to find one


thanks,
matt
Old 07-23-2009, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by broke again
not sure about the check valve, where are you going to put it? i put a .70 nitrous jet in my feed line and that did not take care of the problem. some people run a check valve between the pan or valve cover and pump to keep the oil from running back into the turbo when the car is off. was digging around in my shop this evening and found a jegs oil catch can (1 pint) i am going to use it for my catch can. just tap the top and bottom and should be good to go. either this will fix the problem or i am pulling the turbo off and going na stroker...
I wouldn't bail on an entire turbo set-up just because of a speed bump like that... It better be one hell of an NA setup...
Old 07-23-2009, 09:59 PM
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like i said in the original post, this isthe 7th turbo build i have done and by far the most frustrating (and this was a complete kit that is still in production). i will be starting up a 1987 lincoln mk vii with a single kit that i built in less than two months (this included building the motor) this weekend, and trust me there is no one making a off the shelf kit for that model. i will admit that this is my first ls car and that has something to do with i am sure, but i knew when i got to the drain that there would be problems. should have went from my personal experience and not what other people said would work. that was my fault and no one else's. i am 99% positive that this will take care of the issue and really think it (as well as all other low mount turbo's )should be sold with scavenge pump set up due to the limited access to the oil pan.
Old 07-23-2009, 11:59 PM
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^^^ how do you keep the spark plug wires from burning on the logger ? i checked mine today and the do not look so good. and i tried zip tying them out of the way with not too much luck
Old 07-24-2009, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by broke again
think it (as well as all other low mount turbo's )should be sold with scavenge pump set up due to the limited access to the oil pan.
Agreed... Keep us posted
Old 07-24-2009, 09:11 AM
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for the log side i run the jegs heat shielding boot covers on the wires and i cut small pieces of flashing and glued thermotech aluminized heat barrier and use them for heat shielding between the boots/wires and the manifold.

es
Old 07-24-2009, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by camaroman285
was thinking about putting the check valve between the turbo and the oil pan, idk if itll work or not but i also want to try a scavenge pump but dont know where to find one


thanks,
matt
I dont know how a check valve will help on the return side unless you are pumping it up hill and trying to keep it from going back when the pump is off.

A valve will be a restriction on the return flow, and there is no pressure in the return side to break the seat pressure of a valve without a pump.
Old 07-24-2009, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Slow SS
I dont know how a check valve will help on the return side unless you are pumping it up hill and trying to keep it from going back when the pump is off.

A valve will be a restriction on the return flow, and there is no pressure in the return side to break the seat pressure of a valve without a pump.
yea i wasnt sure either but i want to do a scavenge pump but im new to all this and just would like some advice on witvh one to get and where to get it. i dont mean to hijack the thread but im having the same problems as broke agian

thanks,
matt
Old 07-26-2009, 08:19 PM
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Default fixed!

scavenge pump took care of problem. no more oil smoke! decided not to use a catch can and plumbed straight into pump.

thanks for the suggestions,
es
Old 07-26-2009, 09:32 PM
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^^^ how much was it if you don't mind me asking ?
Old 07-26-2009, 09:40 PM
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155.00 for the pump and about 4 feet of oil line that i had in the shop. the particular pump i got is self priming and that is why i did not run a catch can. figured pump would pull a slight vacumn and it seems to be working great.

es
Old 07-26-2009, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by broke again
scavenge pump took care of problem. no more oil smoke! decided not to use a catch can and plumbed straight into pump.

thanks for the suggestions,
es
Good deal! Glad it worked out for ya!
Old 08-09-2009, 05:55 PM
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Default Scavanging

Im currently adapting a 2 stage Johnson HTP scavanging kit that i made some years back for the INCON TT for my APS. Ill let you guys know what i have into it if intrested. Im putting on my new LG turbos here real soon and am done with this bullshit APS gravity drain setup myself LOLNo more smoke here !LOL



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