Lets talk turbo and t-brake.
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Lets talk turbo and t-brake. So im new to the t-brake world and i currently have my trans out FLT Stage 5 4l65 e at flt getting freshened up and a trans brake installed.
Just have a few questions. I current have a vig 3600 3disc that i love. Will that converter be ok for use with t-brake?
How long is too long to keep that brake activated at the line before my launch?
Also ill be running a 2-step with it.
Thanks
Alex
Just have a few questions. I current have a vig 3600 3disc that i love. Will that converter be ok for use with t-brake?
How long is too long to keep that brake activated at the line before my launch?
Also ill be running a 2-step with it.
Thanks
Alex
So im new to the t-brake world and i currently have my trans out FLT Stage 5 4l65 e at flt getting freshened up and a trans brake installed.
Just have a few questions. I current have a vig 3600 3disc that i love. Will that converter be ok for use with t-brake?
How long is too long to keep that brake activated at the line before my launch?
Also ill be running a 2-step with it.
Thanks
Alex
Just have a few questions. I current have a vig 3600 3disc that i love. Will that converter be ok for use with t-brake?
How long is too long to keep that brake activated at the line before my launch?
Also ill be running a 2-step with it.
Thanks
Alex
You want it as quick as possible to keep the tranny temp's down, 2-3-4 seconds is common. Alot of drag cars use agressive tuning, a staging process, dual caliper rear brakes, and multiple limiters to keep the time on the t-brake down.
I never messed to much with the 2 Step function on the XFI in the old shop car. I pulled up into the beams. Staged. Hit the T-Brake and the gas.
That TC78 will come up on boost quick. No worries there. After that is all a tractiuon game.
That TC78 will come up on boost quick. No worries there. After that is all a tractiuon game.
It is believed, for every second on the t-brake, 30*F-50*F is added to the fluid temp. So yes, you want to keep time on the t-brake as little as possible.
And hang on, it will surprise you how hard it can launch off the brake!
And hang on, it will surprise you how hard it can launch off the brake!
You can make a pass with no 2 step, and see how much boost you hit on the 'brake. If the car can't hook (too much power) then you could start using it and figure out where it needs to be set. To cut a 1.4 or 1.3 I think you'd have it North of 4500 and I don't know if your converter is even loose enough to cut a 1.3 anyway.
First, start saving up for a real tranny because that A4 wont last at this level. I dont give a **** if it's a stage 30.
Like John mentioned, you need to see how high it will go on the Tbrake without the 2 step. Push in the brake pedal, hold down the tbrake button and ease out of the brake just to see if the car rolls a hair forward or not. Some will and some wont. Once you are idling on just the tbrake, floor it and see how high it goes (RPMs and Boost). Let off the gas. It may take a couple of seconds at WOT to get all the way to the top because it will go higher as the boost builds. Now you know what the converter will hold and at what boost level it will hold it. I personally recommend having this all worked out before you get to the track. This way you know what to expect when you get to the line.
Like John mentioned, you need to see how high it will go on the Tbrake without the 2 step. Push in the brake pedal, hold down the tbrake button and ease out of the brake just to see if the car rolls a hair forward or not. Some will and some wont. Once you are idling on just the tbrake, floor it and see how high it goes (RPMs and Boost). Let off the gas. It may take a couple of seconds at WOT to get all the way to the top because it will go higher as the boost builds. Now you know what the converter will hold and at what boost level it will hold it. I personally recommend having this all worked out before you get to the track. This way you know what to expect when you get to the line.
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Just because you are testing the tbrake doesn't mean that you have to actually launch it on the street. If you do, the results will likely be a complete lack of traction.
Next up is the 2 step. You must set this below the max RPM discovered from the test above. Once you hit the 2 step activation, you should see your boost come up beyond the max boost level achieved on the tbrake alone (unless you are running really low boost to begin with). Then you can go to the track and gradually lower it until you find traction (unless you can dead hook it all). The best thing (besides building boost) about the 2 step is that you dont have to watch the tach when you are trying to launch the car and cut a good light. You just set it to whatever the track/your suspension will hold and floor it once your staged.
Next up is the 2 step. You must set this below the max RPM discovered from the test above. Once you hit the 2 step activation, you should see your boost come up beyond the max boost level achieved on the tbrake alone (unless you are running really low boost to begin with). Then you can go to the track and gradually lower it until you find traction (unless you can dead hook it all). The best thing (besides building boost) about the 2 step is that you dont have to watch the tach when you are trying to launch the car and cut a good light. You just set it to whatever the track/your suspension will hold and floor it once your staged.
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Great thanks alot for the post. Ill keep everyone posted. I hear ya on the a4 thing. FLT has had some great results with plenty of heavy 9s cars running the trans ill have back.
I got a guy for that (I'm affraid of electrical). The 2 step should have a trigger wire. Mine is wired on the same button as the tbrake trigger. When the tbrake is on, the 2 step is on. Different 2 steps have different capabilities and some have multiple triggers. I think that the fancier ones can trigger from the foot brake so that you can get up on boost before you stage on the tbrake. This is important on a protree during competition as the tree drops so fast. I'm just foggy on relays and circuits.
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Well basically on my 2 step there is just one activation wire that needs to be grounded. Same as the t-brake. So i will put the t-brake wire and the 2step wire together and put the on on pin the the switch,the other goes to ground. As i push in the button it will activate both at the same time.
Well basically on my 2 step there is just one activation wire that needs to be grounded. Same as the t-brake. So i will put the t-brake wire and the 2step wire together and put the on on pin the the switch,the other goes to ground. As i push in the button it will activate both at the same time.
On The Tree
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its real simple..... on my old 8.70 at 156 car.... i had a 2 step set at 4200 on a 5000 stall...i would pull up the 2nd beam..... activate the t brake.. floor it and let off the foot brake...... my car would hold at 4200... when the light went green ... release the t brake and hold the hell on.... it pulled a 1.27 60ft on the rear tires....
Holy crap. Can you even breath while pulling a 1.27? I'm guessing the tbrake/2step combo was how some of you found out that your car can plant the license plate on the ground... crap...
