Building "Bulletproof" Shortblock?
11-23-2003, 04:31 PM
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Staging Lane
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Building "Bulletproof" Shortblock? Alright guys, I have finally made the decision to go Forced Induction, after much deliberation. I posted a while back sayin that I was a newbie when it comes to this type of thing, and that I had MANY questions. I'm wanting to use a set of Patriot Performance Stage 2 LS6 Style Heads, with the tsp 231/237 cam. I know I will lose a few psi of boost, due to the overlap, but that's okay with me...I can always pulley up some, and I think that at the hp level I'm wanting, those 2-3 psi won't make much of a difference.
What all should be included/adressed when building a shortblock to handle 12-15 psi? I'm going to start with a fresh 346" block, and I am wanting to keep it stock cubes for strength purposes. Are there any good cranks that can handle alot of stress from boosted motors, that aren't going to require me selling off body parts on the black market? What about pistons? How would I get/keep CR down, to a livable area? I'm wanting to achieve 600rwhp without having to have the car live on racegas...I would like to be able to drive the car as much as possible (it is a weekend toy, anyhow) without having to keep 50 gal. drums of race gas, so I can keep her happy. I always run 93 octane in the car, and I know alot of blower cars can make that amount of hp built right, on pump gas. Also, how do I keep from lifting the heads? I know of some heads/cam/spray guys who aren't putting the hp down taht I want to make, and they have issues with lifting the heads.
Lastly, I see alot of FI guys, who make alot of hp, with laptops and **** like that in their cars, to constantly mess with stuff, to keep fine tuning, I guess? I'm not wanting to have to worry about any of that, I would *like* to be able to hop in the car, and go if I need to, or go out for a night of street racing, or a day at the track, and then take it to work the next day. Is this possible? Or, am I reaching a little out of bounds?
TIA,
Jason
What all should be included/adressed when building a shortblock to handle 12-15 psi? I'm going to start with a fresh 346" block, and I am wanting to keep it stock cubes for strength purposes. Are there any good cranks that can handle alot of stress from boosted motors, that aren't going to require me selling off body parts on the black market? What about pistons? How would I get/keep CR down, to a livable area? I'm wanting to achieve 600rwhp without having to have the car live on racegas...I would like to be able to drive the car as much as possible (it is a weekend toy, anyhow) without having to keep 50 gal. drums of race gas, so I can keep her happy. I always run 93 octane in the car, and I know alot of blower cars can make that amount of hp built right, on pump gas. Also, how do I keep from lifting the heads? I know of some heads/cam/spray guys who aren't putting the hp down taht I want to make, and they have issues with lifting the heads.
Lastly, I see alot of FI guys, who make alot of hp, with laptops and **** like that in their cars, to constantly mess with stuff, to keep fine tuning, I guess? I'm not wanting to have to worry about any of that, I would *like* to be able to hop in the car, and go if I need to, or go out for a night of street racing, or a day at the track, and then take it to work the next day. Is this possible? Or, am I reaching a little out of bounds?
TIA,
Jason
11-23-2003, 04:33 PM
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Staging Lane
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Also-I have a fear about sinking all of this money into this build-up, and then breaking something quickly. The car will be backed up by a D&D T-56, with a Moser 12-Bolt with 4.10's..and right now, I think I would be afraid to drive it hard, b/c I've got this fear in my mind that the car would be too "fragile" for me to take out and beat on.
11-23-2003, 05:17 PM
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TEA has the best flowing Stage 3 6.0 heads that i have ever seen. they are the real deal.
You cant go wrong with Lunati crank and rods , JE or Diamond would be my choice on Pistons get them coated atleast on the skirts.Get all the bearing coated, and use a Kartech or ARE oil pump. Let them know up from on what kind of Boost and HP TQ lvls you are looking for when ordering the pistons. I personaly like longer rods ( that doesnt look real good but you all know what i mean )
it doesnt put as much stress on the Cyl wall as a shorter rod would, but depending on Boost and Hp lvls your only choice might only be a shorter rod to move the rings down and have a beefer top. Machine in the larger Head studs and you should be good to go .
You cant go wrong with Lunati crank and rods , JE or Diamond would be my choice on Pistons get them coated atleast on the skirts.Get all the bearing coated, and use a Kartech or ARE oil pump. Let them know up from on what kind of Boost and HP TQ lvls you are looking for when ordering the pistons. I personaly like longer rods ( that doesnt look real good but you all know what i mean )
it doesnt put as much stress on the Cyl wall as a shorter rod would, but depending on Boost and Hp lvls your only choice might only be a shorter rod to move the rings down and have a beefer top. Machine in the larger Head studs and you should be good to go .
11-23-2003, 05:18 PM
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Ditto on what John said. You'll gain more power through boost then you will compression. If you're going to build a shortblock yourself keep in mind that alot of the cleatrences will need to be different when using FI. Make sure when you order your parts you tell them that you're building an FI motor. Usually when you get your parts like pistons they will include a recommendation on ring gap, piston/wall clearence, and other important clearences with your parts.
