So frustrated!
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
I have a wideband. I can monitor that while I'm driving. It stays in the correct range while driving between about 14.5-15.0 (averaging 14.7). I also was looking at the timing last night as well. It seems to be in the ~30°ish range while putting around town at very low throttle. I did go completely WOT one time just to watch what the timing would do, and it went to 9.5°. I can't see how the timing is way off on the normal driving part of the tune. I doubt my tuner would have messed with that. The 9.5° at WOT is completely irrelevant because I am not going WOT at all. anything above 40% or so, it spits and sputters because these 80# injectors are definitely not dialed in yet because my tuner hasnt had a chance to tune with them yet infront of him.. Bottom line is, I highly doubt my cooling issues have anything to do with the tune IMO.
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Savannah, GA
I'm in the 30's cruising around. I saw some low 40's as well, but it was in the mid 30's for the most part.. Definitely wasn't anywhere in the 20's.
Do you need to worry about freezing temps where you live? If not I would go to 1/2 bottle of Water Wetter and the rest distilled water (cheap from the supermarket). Fill it with the car idling and the heater on high hot, fan high.
You might also have someone else work the key while you verify that each fan is spinning the direction you expect. With all your fans it is easy to feel like air is moving the right way only to find that it is just thrashing around.
Timing sounds right for light load, off-boost conditions.
Jim
You might also have someone else work the key while you verify that each fan is spinning the direction you expect. With all your fans it is easy to feel like air is moving the right way only to find that it is just thrashing around.
Timing sounds right for light load, off-boost conditions.
Jim
those little no name fans dont flow NEAR that much ...trust me....I bet you MIGHT have 1600 combined for the 2 little ones and probably not that much. look down the neck of the radiator...if you see a STEADY stream of water coming out of the fitting that runs to the steam vent lines under the intake....all the air is out.
I agree with the other gent that recommended that when you get frustrated, just walk away for the time being and go do something else till you can reset. I doubt anyone here has had more crap getting their very promising setup going than me. I, too, was thinking very dark thoughts but just wiped off the wrenches, went and had a great meal somewhere. The next day, I just rolled up my sleeves and went back at it. Just do something with it every day, no matter how small. Don't let it just sit there, gathering dust and frustrate you. Eventually, what ever is causing the problem will become clear and you'll have the fast fun car you dreamed of. My sig's link has some of the crap I went thru to get mine running good. I've ended up with a fantastic, fun, fast car as a result.
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Savannah, GA
Unfortunately, yes, I do need to worry about water freezing here in the tulsa area, so I run a mix of antifreeze in my system.
Oh, I trust ya cablebandit that those fans probably dont flow what they advertise. I wish I knew their true ratings, but even if they are half what they say, they can't be hurting me.. And yes, I have wired each fan separately and made sure they were all going the correct direction. Thanks for the tidbit on the steam vent fitting, that helps for sure. I can definitely see a constant stream coming from it, so I guess all the air is out of the system
Oh, I trust ya cablebandit that those fans probably dont flow what they advertise. I wish I knew their true ratings, but even if they are half what they say, they can't be hurting me.. And yes, I have wired each fan separately and made sure they were all going the correct direction. Thanks for the tidbit on the steam vent fitting, that helps for sure. I can definitely see a constant stream coming from it, so I guess all the air is out of the system
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What are your temps when you are cruising?
If the temps are rising while you are cruising then the cooling system isn't doing it's job ie air blockage, faulty water pump, air bubble
If it is just at a stop then you don't have enough cooling power with the fans.
If the temps are rising while you are cruising then the cooling system isn't doing it's job ie air blockage, faulty water pump, air bubble
If it is just at a stop then you don't have enough cooling power with the fans.
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Savannah, GA
I can start up the car and let it idle indefinitely it seems and it wont get hot. It starts getting hot while I am driving. But once it gets hot, it will stay there- even if I stop and let it idle for a while. After its reached 220, it just seems to oscillate between 220-230 no matter what fan(s) I have on, or if I’m driving or just sitting still.. Oh, and yes, the front air dam is on correctly.
I agree with this guy. Every heating issue I have had that was due to airflow went away when I was moving more then 30 to 35 MPH. Everything else was due to idle timming, mixture, air bubbles.
Note: Did you check to make sure the filler neck is not warped after it was welded?
Last edited by Tzion_ben_Arthur; Sep 2, 2009 at 10:47 AM. Reason: finger slipped
I can start up the car and let it idle indefinitely it seems and it wont get hot. It starts getting hot while I am driving. But once it gets hot, it will stay there- even if I stop and let it idle for a while. After its reached 220, it just seems to oscillate between 220-230 no matter what fan(s) I have on, or if I’m driving or just sitting still.. Oh, and yes, the front air dam is on correctly.
You might try a new water pump & thermostat. Thats probably the cheapest things to replace beside replacing fans but it doesnt sound like this is fan related at all. But thats just my opinion man.
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
Oh yea, forgot to mention, that water pump is brand spankin new! Its got less than 50 miles on it! I thought the old one was bad when my ATI 16" fan took a dump on me, so I replaced it. Wasnt cheap at all! That sucker was about $275 or so iirc!
Ok, so lets run thru a quick list then.
A) we know the fans are all working properly & in the right direction correct?
B) water pump is new
C) thermostat is working properly correct?
D) all air in the system has been burped out correct?
So IMO that only leaves a problem with the radiator itself or the coolant passages in either the heads or block as possible causes. Another thought I had (yea, it's a stretch but stick with me, LOL) was head gaskets. I have heard if they get flipped around on accident they can block some coolant passages. I highly doubt you would miss something like that but I'm just thinking of every possible way that could cause overheating.
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
Yep, everything you mentioned was good Mike... Maybe the waterpump was 150? I cant remember, I got it from Oreilley as well. I just remember it being way more than I wanted to pay at the time LOL
I inspected all the coolant passages with a flashlight best I could when I got the block back from the machine shop and all looked well from what I could tell. Also, I know the head gaskets are on correct, because I triple checked them, and also I remember making sure the coolant passage holes werent partially blocked or anything (I was very cautious about this after reading veee8's thread about his gasket misalignment a while ago). The radiator is practically brand new. I bought it from a member who only installed it but never ran it because his turbo setup came with its own radiator. The fill neck was damaged when I got it. It now has a new one, and no, its not warped at all.. I'm just starting to believe my horizontal FMIC is hurting me. I am tempted to take out the front license plate filler and fab a tunnel in my custom shroud like I originally intended and see if that helps. If nothing else, at least it would eliminate the FMIC from being a problem.. I'm kinda running out of ideas here myself.
I inspected all the coolant passages with a flashlight best I could when I got the block back from the machine shop and all looked well from what I could tell. Also, I know the head gaskets are on correct, because I triple checked them, and also I remember making sure the coolant passage holes werent partially blocked or anything (I was very cautious about this after reading veee8's thread about his gasket misalignment a while ago). The radiator is practically brand new. I bought it from a member who only installed it but never ran it because his turbo setup came with its own radiator. The fill neck was damaged when I got it. It now has a new one, and no, its not warped at all.. I'm just starting to believe my horizontal FMIC is hurting me. I am tempted to take out the front license plate filler and fab a tunnel in my custom shroud like I originally intended and see if that helps. If nothing else, at least it would eliminate the FMIC from being a problem.. I'm kinda running out of ideas here myself.
You still have the coolant crossover for the heads right? Also I'd be willing to bet its the horizontal intercooler. When moving all the air is going through the intercooler and then to the radiator. The air will take the path of least resistance and that through the intercooler.
Yep, everything you mentioned was good Mike... Maybe the waterpump was 150? I cant remember, I got it from Oreilley as well. I just remember it being way more than I wanted to pay at the time LOL
I inspected all the coolant passages with a flashlight best I could when I got the block back from the machine shop and all looked well from what I could tell. Also, I know the head gaskets are on correct, because I triple checked them, and also I remember making sure the coolant passage holes werent partially blocked or anything (I was very cautious about this after reading veee8's thread about his gasket misalignment a while ago). The radiator is practically brand new. I bought it from a member who only installed it but never ran it because his turbo setup came with its own radiator. The fill neck was damaged when I got it. It now has a new one, and no, its not warped at all.. I'm just starting to believe my horizontal FMIC is hurting me. I am tempted to take out the front license plate filler and fab a tunnel in my custom shroud like I originally intended and see if that helps. If nothing else, at least it would eliminate the FMIC from being a problem.. I'm kinda running out of ideas here myself.
I inspected all the coolant passages with a flashlight best I could when I got the block back from the machine shop and all looked well from what I could tell. Also, I know the head gaskets are on correct, because I triple checked them, and also I remember making sure the coolant passage holes werent partially blocked or anything (I was very cautious about this after reading veee8's thread about his gasket misalignment a while ago). The radiator is practically brand new. I bought it from a member who only installed it but never ran it because his turbo setup came with its own radiator. The fill neck was damaged when I got it. It now has a new one, and no, its not warped at all.. I'm just starting to believe my horizontal FMIC is hurting me. I am tempted to take out the front license plate filler and fab a tunnel in my custom shroud like I originally intended and see if that helps. If nothing else, at least it would eliminate the FMIC from being a problem.. I'm kinda running out of ideas here myself.
Is it actually possible for the FMIC to suck up enough air to rob the radiator of air to cool itself even with the airdam in place? I mean it seems kinda far fetched cause I'd think the IC would really have to be suckin to steal that much air from under the car. But I'm still a noob to FI so I really cant speak on it with any certainity.
I'm just a little curious about that radiator though. If it was new & installed but never ran how did the filler get damaged to the point of needing replacing?
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Savannah, GA
The radiator is also for an automatic trans, so it has the trans cooler built into it which occupies some room that I could otherwise be utilizing, but I can't see that being a big problem. If my car were an auto, the trans fluid that would be running thru the radiator would hurt me even more heating the coolant up.
I wonder if it would help if I installed a system that would pump cool water thru those trans lines..
I wonder if it would help if I installed a system that would pump cool water thru those trans lines..
The radiator is also for an automatic trans, so it has the trans cooler built into it which occupies some room that I could otherwise be utilizing, but I can't see that being a big problem. If my car were an auto, the trans fluid that would be running thru the radiator would hurt me even more heating the coolant up.
I wonder if it would help if I installed a system that would pump cool water thru those trans lines..
I wonder if it would help if I installed a system that would pump cool water thru those trans lines..
Unless there is some sneaky thing to those trans coolers built in to where they help the radiator be more efficient? Hell I'm lost, LOL. But I'll keep helpin trouble shoot with ya until you can get it fixed.
Was this radiator in the other combo? I dont remember you having overheating issues on that set-up.
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
I didnt get to test this radiator out with the last combo much at all. The day I got it in was the day it blew the intake manifold up and started me on the new engine journey. That was last winter, so it wasn't running hot at all for that one day, but temps were in the 40's.
But to answer your question, its always ran a little warm before (even before I had the FMIC), I just attributed all that to the stock radiator, and single 16" fan. I figured it was the nature of the beast for the procharged LS1s to run that hot in the southern region..
But to answer your question, its always ran a little warm before (even before I had the FMIC), I just attributed all that to the stock radiator, and single 16" fan. I figured it was the nature of the beast for the procharged LS1s to run that hot in the southern region..