So frustrated!
I was talkin to Wingnut about this last night. It's got both of us puzzled at this point. We both agreed though that the iron block is gonna raise your temps a little but no where near what your seeing. He told me he doesnt even like to see 210* temps on his logs much less what your seeing.
After looking at the pic above though, it looks as if the air scooped from the airdam is being pushed thru the intercooler & not up in front of the radiator like stock. Could that loss of flow cause this? I know removing the airdam can cause hotter temps. Wouldnt this be doin exactly the same since it has to pass thru the IC first? Is there enough room in there for us to add like a 2" spacer to allow more of the air to bypass the IC? Or are you outta room in the bumper area?
I'm starting to think it's lost the fresh air flow from the airdam since the IC is butted right against the radiator support.
After looking at the pic above though, it looks as if the air scooped from the airdam is being pushed thru the intercooler & not up in front of the radiator like stock. Could that loss of flow cause this? I know removing the airdam can cause hotter temps. Wouldnt this be doin exactly the same since it has to pass thru the IC first? Is there enough room in there for us to add like a 2" spacer to allow more of the air to bypass the IC? Or are you outta room in the bumper area?
I'm starting to think it's lost the fresh air flow from the airdam since the IC is butted right against the radiator support.
Have to be careful with the fan wiring, wire it the way ATI recommends for a singlefan and you wont have any issues, the stock fans run series/parallel low/high, thats why there is three relays. I atached the ATI wiring in case you dont have the original instructions, the single fan will run either on the high or low signal from the PCM when wired like this.
Last edited by kp; Nov 23, 2009 at 02:32 PM.
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
Thanks for the schematic KP. Thats actually how I had it wired. Guess I should put it back. However, my fans are both tuned to come on at the same temp, and off at the same temp. IIRC its on at 180 and off at 170.
I'm really leaning towards bypassing the stock wiring all together however and just putting the 16" on its own separate relay and having it on at all times. I don't get why the fuse would blow.. Maybe my fan requires more than 40 amps tho. I'll have to check the instructions on it tonight..
I'm really leaning towards bypassing the stock wiring all together however and just putting the 16" on its own separate relay and having it on at all times. I don't get why the fuse would blow.. Maybe my fan requires more than 40 amps tho. I'll have to check the instructions on it tonight..
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Yea mike, I'm starting to wonder just how much the IC is heating up the air also. I have an extra AIT sensor im seriously considering hooking up to the inside of my shroud to monitor that via one of my aeroforce analog ports.
Now thats a great idea right there. That could anwser some question I believe.
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I just thought I would throw this out there since it just happened to me. My Benz starting running hotter than normal and I chased my tail for weeks. Turns out I had a sticking brake caliper making the engine work harder and run hotter.
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
Wow! LOL Thats about as far out in left field as I have heard so far! 
But its always the small stuff like that you never think to check. I know my front wheels spin freely because I have it up on jackstands so much and just spin them at random while layin on the ground sometimes. I'll check the rears lol hell, its worth a shot, and I'm so desperate now, I'll try just about anything 
But its always the small stuff like that you never think to check. I know my front wheels spin freely because I have it up on jackstands so much and just spin them at random while layin on the ground sometimes. I'll check the rears lol hell, its worth a shot, and I'm so desperate now, I'll try just about anything Wow! LOL Thats about as far out in left field as I have heard so far! But its always the small stuff like that you never think to check. I know my front wheels spin freely because I have it up on jackstands so much and just spin them at random while layin on the ground sometimes. I'll check the rears lol hell, its worth a shot, and I'm so desperate now, I'll try just about anything
But its always the small stuff like that you never think to check. I know my front wheels spin freely because I have it up on jackstands so much and just spin them at random while layin on the ground sometimes. I'll check the rears lol hell, its worth a shot, and I'm so desperate now, I'll try just about anything 
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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I'm thinking of just removing the shroud and seeing if that helps. If not, I'll then remove the front filler panel and that should definitely tell me if airflow is the problem or not.
Have to be careful with the fan wiring, wire it the way ATI recommends for a singlefan and you wont have any issues, the stock fans run series/parallel low/high, thats why there is three relays. I atached the ATI wiring in case you dont have the original instructions, the single fan will run either on the high or low signal from the PCM when wired like this.
. 
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I bet you if your remove the shroud like your suggesting you will have no problems at all. I'd look into that as the next step since it's the biggest question of the whole set-up.
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8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Well, I think the IC is the biggest question everyone else is having, but removing the shroud is easier than repositioning the IC, so it makes sense to try it first. At least Ill eliminate things one at a time. 
Thats what I'd do too man. Start with the easy stuff & if that doesnt solve it get a little more in-depth.
to the OP, when you were running the 3.5's how were your temps? i know you prob have an entirely diff setup an block but i was thinking, maybe the dual 4.5 (revised singles) will allow more airflow into the rad an not be plugged up by a large FMIC (kind of what happend with dland on here with his be cool IC). as a matter of fact trust is running them at his power levels. whadda you think?
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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Welp, as always, good news, and more bad news 
I took the intake manifold off with intentions of seeing what was up with the knock sensors, and to tighten the oil pressure sensor.
Good news: The wiring harness was smashed and looked like it had been burned through completely. Its a wonder the computer was reading the knock sensors at all! So I got that fixed by cutting out the inch or so that was smashed and resoldered/ heat shrinked/ taped up the harness. Ok, so far, off to a good start for the night.
Bad news: I was taking the knock sensors out so I could remove the valley cover so I could get a wrench on the oil pressure sensor to tighten it up. Front sensor came out in about 9 seconds. The rear knock sensor will not come out at all! And that one is freakin brand NEW!
I put a socket on it, and it just spins freely, but the sensor itself is not loosening up one bit, its secure on the block. I cant get that sensor out at all now to be able to remove the valley cover so I can tighten the oil pressure sensor.
More bad news: I don't think the oil leak is exclusively from the oil pressure sensor! Infact, it doesnt appear to be leaking at all from what I can see back there on the sensor. I have a big puddle of oil on my garage floor right now thats probably 1/3+ qt. Weird thing is, it is under the transmission and the entire length of the transmission. Goes from the bellhousing to the tailshaft. And before anyone asks, YES, I'm positive its OIL and NOT trans fluid. I hate my car
I took the intake manifold off with intentions of seeing what was up with the knock sensors, and to tighten the oil pressure sensor.Good news: The wiring harness was smashed and looked like it had been burned through completely. Its a wonder the computer was reading the knock sensors at all! So I got that fixed by cutting out the inch or so that was smashed and resoldered/ heat shrinked/ taped up the harness. Ok, so far, off to a good start for the night.
Bad news: I was taking the knock sensors out so I could remove the valley cover so I could get a wrench on the oil pressure sensor to tighten it up. Front sensor came out in about 9 seconds. The rear knock sensor will not come out at all! And that one is freakin brand NEW!
I put a socket on it, and it just spins freely, but the sensor itself is not loosening up one bit, its secure on the block. I cant get that sensor out at all now to be able to remove the valley cover so I can tighten the oil pressure sensor.More bad news: I don't think the oil leak is exclusively from the oil pressure sensor! Infact, it doesnt appear to be leaking at all from what I can see back there on the sensor. I have a big puddle of oil on my garage floor right now thats probably 1/3+ qt. Weird thing is, it is under the transmission and the entire length of the transmission. Goes from the bellhousing to the tailshaft. And before anyone asks, YES, I'm positive its OIL and NOT trans fluid. I hate my car
Thread Starter
8 sec potential, 12 sec slip
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From: Savannah, GA
so does this include the pushers too? so fans behind and front of rad activate simultaneously?
to the OP, when you were running the 3.5's how were your temps? i know you prob have an entirely diff setup an block but i was thinking, maybe the dual 4.5 (revised singles) will allow more airflow into the rad an not be plugged up by a large FMIC (kind of what happend with dland on here with his be cool IC). as a matter of fact trust is running them at his power levels. whadda you think?
to the OP, when you were running the 3.5's how were your temps? i know you prob have an entirely diff setup an block but i was thinking, maybe the dual 4.5 (revised singles) will allow more airflow into the rad an not be plugged up by a large FMIC (kind of what happend with dland on here with his be cool IC). as a matter of fact trust is running them at his power levels. whadda you think?