To much hp for the street
Brakes = grind down the rear calipers to fit 15" wheels and install some 4" wide wheels up front (lighter and helps with weight transfer).
Suspension = adjustable front shocks in the front to allow weight transfer to the rear
tires = drag radials, as big as you can fit
roll bar = remove front roll bar to help with weight transfer
I feel a lot safer going WOT in my car after all this since it doesn't spin as violently.
Brakes = grind down the rear calipers to fit 15" wheels and install some 4" wide wheels up front (lighter and helps with weight transfer).
Suspension = adjustable front shocks in the front to allow weight transfer to the rear
tires = drag radials, as big as you can fit
roll bar = remove front roll bar to help with weight transfer
I feel a lot safer going WOT in my car after all this since it doesn't spin as violently.
Great reply!

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Brakes = grind down the rear calipers to fit 15" wheels and install some 4" wide wheels up front (lighter and helps with weight transfer).
Suspension = adjustable front shocks in the front to allow weight transfer to the rear
tires = drag radials, as big as you can fit
roll bar = remove front roll bar to help with weight transfer
I feel a lot safer going WOT in my car after all this since it doesn't spin as violently.
Basically what I'm saying is that once you go past a certain point you have to sacrifice something. You want to corner, you sacrifice straight line traction. If you want crazy power, you have to sacrifice cornering ability. Only real way around the trade offs is to go AWD.
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The street driving I did with 540 rwhp, 1st and 2nd were pretty useless, but those IMO are the most important gears. Any decently powered 4wd car can smoke you while you sit there and spin.
On the street I do pretty good as far as racing. I got beat by a 1K bike from a roll this year though.
That being said, I would avoid large hits of N2O for street car - a little violent and kills traction.












