To much hp for the street
#1
To much hp for the street
Just wanted to know how much power is ( to much for the street ) I am trying to do the parts list for my build. I wanted to do a 408 L92 heads and lg supercharger cam with 9.5to 1 cr with 10 to 12 lb of boost with a vortech v3 low mount . or I am gona go with a bit bigger cam and 125 shot that's already in the car. all I want is somethat scares the holyshit out of me every time i drive it.
#2
Banned
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Been awhile since I saw one of these threads.
Depends on what you're gonna do with it.
Roll races......then there is no limit on whats too much. I know people with 1,300 RWHP who do nothing but roll races...its awesome to watch them do 50-180 runs, making bikes look silly. They hook just fine rolling into the throttle.
I'll be joining their ranks soon with my turbo LSX.
Racing from a dig "on the street"....that will be a problem hooking on the street from a dig.
Do as much HP as the pocket book will allow...worry about traction later.
.
Depends on what you're gonna do with it.
Roll races......then there is no limit on whats too much. I know people with 1,300 RWHP who do nothing but roll races...its awesome to watch them do 50-180 runs, making bikes look silly. They hook just fine rolling into the throttle.
I'll be joining their ranks soon with my turbo LSX.
Racing from a dig "on the street"....that will be a problem hooking on the street from a dig.
Do as much HP as the pocket book will allow...worry about traction later.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 09-06-2009 at 09:40 PM.
#5
11 Second Club
iTrader: (74)
The 'scare the **** out of me' feeling will only last a few times til u get used to it - unless ur on normal street tires and have that unexpected outcome out of it on how the tires are gonna react lol. Most of my friends say that anything over 650 is overkill in a frequently driven street car. Depends on how the power comes on, but 650 would handle/hang with most cars you'll encounter on the street on a day to day basis
#6
I think 650 will kill pretty much anything on the street depending on where you live. Where I am a 650 street car would run the streets. But in some parts of Florida and other areas where kenne belle cobras and ZR1's arent rare your 650 wont look so good.
If your just going to pull the car out to cruise around every once and a while I would go with a 1,000+hp build seeing as with a turbo or sc you can dial it in by either turning down the boost or pulling timing. So when you want the 1,200hp beast its there but you can cruise with the tame 800.
If your just going to pull the car out to cruise around every once and a while I would go with a 1,000+hp build seeing as with a turbo or sc you can dial it in by either turning down the boost or pulling timing. So when you want the 1,200hp beast its there but you can cruise with the tame 800.
#7
9 Second Club
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My car was real fun at WOT when it ran 9.99s. Now I added 6psi and runs 9.29. It is also pretty useless on the street now. Gotta turn the boots back down to 12psi and "bably" the throttle on a street pass to drive straight.
Even from a roll, my car lights up slicks or my big DRs at 60mph on 18psi.....even if I roll into it slightly.
Even from a roll, my car lights up slicks or my big DRs at 60mph on 18psi.....even if I roll into it slightly.
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#8
10 Second Club
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Agreed with the thread in general. If you're roll racing, the sky is really the limit, up until say the mesosphere. You can get almost anything to hook on a good tire and easing the throttle. I still light them up at on a 50 roll with MT DR's, but I can't really pedal mine, it's either in or out, I'd think you have more control over it in an M6. I say anything under 1000RWHP is manageable on the street in car like ours. 1,400RWHP Supra's and such hook because of their lag.
#9
TECH Veteran
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Lots of variables. I don't expect to hook great in 1st and 2nd and part of third with current nittos. I would hook better with et street radials or similar but don't want to run them 24/7. I just take it pretty easy driving around as really you can't unleash the car much on public roads most of the time .i like to keep my liscence and stay out of jail!
I found current power setting of guessin around 600 to 650rwhp pretty nice for street driving. Fun but still pretty controllable assuming hot dry roads. I dont drive much in the rain and car dont' drive in winter only from about april 1 thru end of october. I drove it into novemenber last year but it got scary, not in snow but roads were cold and as said it got scary.I have no factory traction control.
Looking at doing a couple of things now with car. I am going to a high end street tire since it will be better in wet,better for ride quailty and less road noise and should last longer if dont' burn them all the time. Then have second set of rims with some et street raidals or similar mounted up if wsant to hook better track or off track.
Thinking of getting this aftermarket variable traction control made by Racelogic.
Also will try ramping in my boost with my eboost2 likely by rpm.
Advantage to turbo is you can change boost pressure easilyi. I have nitrous but only going to run smalll shots like 125 max. Its more a car show and intimidation thing since boost don't cost anything ,nitrous does but it will instant spool up the turbos and don't eat up any injector since its wet setup.
I am going to 4l80 and stall not many 6 speeds stand up reliably to really big power.
I don't plan on going past 1000rwhp max and that will be mostly dyno number. Most of time content to run in the 600 to 650rwhp range.
I found current power setting of guessin around 600 to 650rwhp pretty nice for street driving. Fun but still pretty controllable assuming hot dry roads. I dont drive much in the rain and car dont' drive in winter only from about april 1 thru end of october. I drove it into novemenber last year but it got scary, not in snow but roads were cold and as said it got scary.I have no factory traction control.
Looking at doing a couple of things now with car. I am going to a high end street tire since it will be better in wet,better for ride quailty and less road noise and should last longer if dont' burn them all the time. Then have second set of rims with some et street raidals or similar mounted up if wsant to hook better track or off track.
Thinking of getting this aftermarket variable traction control made by Racelogic.
Also will try ramping in my boost with my eboost2 likely by rpm.
Advantage to turbo is you can change boost pressure easilyi. I have nitrous but only going to run smalll shots like 125 max. Its more a car show and intimidation thing since boost don't cost anything ,nitrous does but it will instant spool up the turbos and don't eat up any injector since its wet setup.
I am going to 4l80 and stall not many 6 speeds stand up reliably to really big power.
I don't plan on going past 1000rwhp max and that will be mostly dyno number. Most of time content to run in the 600 to 650rwhp range.
#12
10 Second Club
I kept wanting more and more but I can say I am done now. On the street you just can't punch it because it will break loose so easy anywhere under 80 mph. So I drive tentatively and roll into it. I kind of miss the days when you could just hammer it and go. I'm still trying to figure out how to get a good number at the track. With the 275/60/15 Mickey's and the new Bogarts I think that may be coming soon.
#13
TECH Senior Member
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...I wanted to quote each one of you in here but,.. to save time, your right, too much is never enough, depending on what your doing. Years ago, 550rwhp, like back in 02 on the street(south florida)..typically, everything you ran into, would get beat. Fast forward to now,.. same place(south fla),... honestly,... it seems to RUN with the bunch, you need 700-800rwhp to hang with the majority of our, ah, class leaders. Thats to run with them, dig or roll. Then, theres the other class,.. 1000+=1500rwhp cars,... that DO run on the street here. Now what?... lol. We all just need to step up our game, and strap on our driving shoes a little tighter.
Get as much power as you can. Hope you have the right suspension parts, and more importantly the right tires to handle HIGH speeds unless your planning on shutting down @150 or less. Coilovers, road race style(toyo RA1's) tires.... all come into effect for a well rounded machine that can make severe lane changes when needed(never forget the time I had to dive across a few lanes @160-without any drama)(tires-suspension). But, thats me, not soo much into a DRAG setup, unless it's a dedicated DIG car, or unless you have multiple configurations(dig/road/roll).
As far as how to make the power?.. Thats on you. Every FI has there pros and cons. I have tried spray,centrifugal,and twins. To me, turbo is the only route to go but, everything can be a winning settup. For a 1000+spray car, you better have a controller and two-3 kits(not cheap-done right)(nitrous used to be the cheap way out-not soo much),... if you go with a blower,... do even mess aroud unless it's an 8 or 11 rib. If you don't know the difference in the two, consider a 305 tire(8 rib) compaired to a 345 tire(11 rib)... one has clearly more footprint, which means more grip/traction. For turbo(s).... the sky is the limit. Get good parts,.. it's that simple.
All require a 1000-2000 dollar parts only fuel system.
Get as much power as you can. Hope you have the right suspension parts, and more importantly the right tires to handle HIGH speeds unless your planning on shutting down @150 or less. Coilovers, road race style(toyo RA1's) tires.... all come into effect for a well rounded machine that can make severe lane changes when needed(never forget the time I had to dive across a few lanes @160-without any drama)(tires-suspension). But, thats me, not soo much into a DRAG setup, unless it's a dedicated DIG car, or unless you have multiple configurations(dig/road/roll).
As far as how to make the power?.. Thats on you. Every FI has there pros and cons. I have tried spray,centrifugal,and twins. To me, turbo is the only route to go but, everything can be a winning settup. For a 1000+spray car, you better have a controller and two-3 kits(not cheap-done right)(nitrous used to be the cheap way out-not soo much),... if you go with a blower,... do even mess aroud unless it's an 8 or 11 rib. If you don't know the difference in the two, consider a 305 tire(8 rib) compaired to a 345 tire(11 rib)... one has clearly more footprint, which means more grip/traction. For turbo(s).... the sky is the limit. Get good parts,.. it's that simple.
All require a 1000-2000 dollar parts only fuel system.
#14
A lot will come down to your set up. My old room mate had a 03 cobra with 2.3 wipple. Fun little car that made 580 on a very safe street tune. The car was fun but sucked on the street. Even on DR's the power just came on too fast and traction even in 2nd and 3rd gear was a big issue. Now say you have the same car on a 76 trim turbo making the same power numbers. Since the turbo lags a little the power comes in a little more smooth keeping the tires happy.
#16
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I agree, it's never to much although I have 700hp on the streets and it gets a little boring because nothing can touch u. Plus I was spending $20 a day on gas. So now I am running nmca true street. With a th400. Racing on the street is just to dangerous.
#17
LS1Tech Co-Founder
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680rwhp/9.40@144/18 psi blower
That was the point where the Formula way too hard to hook on the street. I did a hit once and the car was sideways for most of a block I could not get it to hook up, and I was on 28W's.
That was the point where the Formula way too hard to hook on the street. I did a hit once and the car was sideways for most of a block I could not get it to hook up, and I was on 28W's.
#20
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heres a suggestion, see if you can test drive a new Z06 and see how that feels. i always laugh when people want to go straight from stock to 1,000HP because if youve never driven a car like that, you WILL crash it. just be careful, i think anywhere from 5-high 600's is wayyy plenty for a street car. keep in mind, you need the safety to go with the power. ie BRAKES, suspension, tires, roll bar, etc