OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

I think what happend with the aps turbos is that they hit so hard just like a 300 shot of nitrous and then they fell off their *** it was an upside down V shape on the graph with the aps turbos. They hit so hard it just made a crap load of TQ with those small turbos and they spooled up so fast was why they made so much damn TQ.
With LG's turbos the power comes in a little later and comes in smoother then before with bigger twins I wouldnt expect to get more TQ then HP they are most of the time lower. The highest TQ i did get was 838rwtq
I love the way it is now cause it gives my a chance to put the power to the ground rather then blow my tires off insantly. Just to give you an idea starting at 3000rpm hp is right at 250rwhp it climbs in a straight line to 930rwhp at 6100rpm the TQ at 3000rpm 430rwtq and levled out around 5000rpm at 819rwtq. Dont know if that could kinda give you a picture of what it did but will try to get the graphs up tomorrow.
I dont have a scanner anymore to put up my new graphs will try to get them on tomorrow.

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Dyno graph with LG's turbos at 18psi pull and 15psi pull

tomz28

iTrader: (20)

why are the lines up and down but it looks good man

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

This Graph was the old APS turbos right before they crapped out on me a few months back at 14psi

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Was just wondering if you dyno a turbo car on a dyno with no load control would it make a correct reading in power or would there be more better of a reading with load control on the dyno. If so what would be the difference?

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

I dyno mine on a loaded dyno. I think its the correct way to tune it, since its really only a tuning tool anyway. You will definitely get higher numbers from a non-loaded dyno, though

squealingtires

iTrader: (14)

on the APS turbo run at 14psi. Did the inlets constrict and choke the flow or did the turbos max out? How was the boost holding above 4500rpm?

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

No the inlets when I had the APS turbos were fine we already had them stented. The boost would hold at 14psi but the power just died off me and Louis discussed this and figured just ran out of air to push due to the small turbos not being able to push the air anymore.

I know with these new turbos we just cant seem to get the boost gauge to stay steady. It just bounces alot, not all over the place but just shackey we even to the inlet hoses to see if that would solve it but it still shook. I would like some insight on this. Didnt do that with the stock aps turbos.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Wonder if this is turbo surging..? There are no antisurge housings on the lg or aps turbos.
Also you are now 100% sure the inlets are fully staying open. Maybe try a dyno run with no inlet tubes on at all.
And mabye its also from trying to go to high on boost with the controller you are using.
Maybe you need even bigger base springs..
So do you think you can push 1000rwhp thru your current heads and not see water from the lifting?
What exhaust are you running again..true duals..cutout?
Wonder if these turbos can hold power out to 7000. That is my max redline possibly needed for mph reasons in the 1/4.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Oops should read more.true duals..do you have cutouts? Some more power maybe to be gained with cutouts.

And you took off inlet tubes for test ?

What clutch are you using..

bigblueturtle

Is there a sensitivity setting on that controller?

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

No that is full exhaust with mufflers that the car was dynoed on no cutouts.

We did runs with and without the tubes on the car and the same thing am now 100% sure inlets hoses arent sucking shut

Clutch is Spec twin disc rated at 1000+tq

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Heads are fine I dont think there is much to be gained at that power level with heads when that much air is being forced in there, they are good heads and can get the job done.

In some of the pulls you can see where the power starts to tapper off past 6500 there is no need to go past that plus I think turbos are maxed out near that anyways.

We can turn the boost up some more next time it will hit 20psi cause ive done it a few times, I know the 1000rwhp is there like said was spinning tires on dyno so will just have to wait till next time plus it was 96 DEGREES when we were dynoing the car that will make a big difference.

I know what you are talking about needing to go to 7000rpm as we have the same Dana 60 almost maxed at the 1/4 mile mark if you shift any shorter. Only thing I didnt like about the Dana.

02blackbeauty19

iTrader: (22)

I have the stock APS turbos on my car and at 13.8 psi it made 768 rwhp and 690 rwtq on a loaded dyno in the middle of the Texas summer. There was absolutely no falling off of the turbos and I think most of it is due to my tuner getting the cam specs DEAD on. I am running screens but the turbos can definitely push the air. It is a 347 cid motor with stock "317" heads and a custom spec'd cam.

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Yeah you have a way smaller ci motor then me there is no comparison with air flow with those small turbos. My cam specs are great for what I have. Why dont you put a 402 in there and see if you have continious power with the stock turbos at that boost. Your size engine is what that kit was made for not a 402, 408.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah guess don't matter if the bigger ones fall off a bit for the occasional 7000 track run hopefully won't hurt them. It all the combination of boost level and rpm and engine size. I found some great site but should have saved it that let you input engine size and rpm and turbo airflows and calculate if they were optimum . I am pretty sure 70lb.min were close for 7000 rpm on 408 cubes at near 20psi. will try to find that site again.

I wan't talking about the heads hurting power so much as maybe pushing water.
It will be interesting to see what dyno I get with the afr 225 but of course even though we are running similiar intake..not sure you said if yours was fast 92 or fast 90 still also their is compression diff .I am 9.5? You are ?
and cams are likely pretty different and that can make big dif on powerband.I am like 210/230/590/590/121 lsa with the 1.8 rockers giving the 590 or so lift.And will be auto shortly so higher drivetrain loss. Hoping to upgrade the turbos also over winter.
For sure spinning will affect the dyno readings.It can be very difficult to hook up on the dyno with big power . What tires are you running on the dyno?
Also don't underestimate the power gains from maybe just some more timing. Of course alc/meth is helpful with that although race gas gives the octane it don't give the cooling as good as alc/meth. I assume the heating you were seeing on the dyno are from the car not moving. Are you ok driving it on the street? I want to install bigger rad and high flo water pump in mine over the winter so its ready for next season.I only had one close overheat but could have been from timing and tuning but still didn't run my air much but it don't get that hot up here where I live either.

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Not sure on my cam specs George at BOOST PERFORMANCE and PPE were the ones who came up with everything for engine specs for me. I have the Fast 90 intake in mine. Compression in mine is 9.1
I sold my other wheels and tires so had to run my Mickey Thompson 305/35/18 on the dyno. They got really slick after a few runs so before we turned up the boost and got the inlet hose problem taken care of.
As for heating issues I do have that. I have a BeCool radiator in the car and fans are allways set at high. at 76degrees outside it sees 190* engine temp just driving around. I took it out the other day and got caught having to come home in 96* weather and the car was at 220* just on the highway with the heater at full blast. Im thinking of either moving the intercooler forward away from the radiator and stuff and just cutting out the brace to move it forward to make where air can flow throw the radiator better cause with the intercooler in the front there isnt that much air flow. Also thinking about just getting rid of the APS intercooler and putting another intercooler in the bumper area and just making our own tubing to the inake to get rid of this problem.
Driving on the street is a blast. Car hooks good in mid 3rd and 4th with my setup but my car also weighs 3900lbs or so. Putting the cage in this winter so adding some weight but going to do some weight reducing this winter also. The car has good street maners I drove it all this week just for fun have to enjoy a 900+ hp street car LOL. Its getting cooler down here so bout time for me to start having some street fun.

I would like to go 4l80 with my tranny but just like have fun driving on the street just wish the t56 would hold the power reliably. But my stock t56 is holding up for the meanwhile.

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

Wow, I'm surprised your car runs that hot. I have a LT1 radiator, 160 stat and drove about 150 miles on the highway in July south Texas heat with the AC blasting the whole time, was running about 200-205 if I recall correctly. I do generally turn the AC off driving around town in this heat though, it gets to about 210 or so in city driving with the AC off.

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

that was mixed with city driving though once it got that hot it wouldnt cool down.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I run 160 stat,fans are set to come on at 170 so pretty much all the time.I added redline water wetter. I have stock rad and fans. Stock water pump. I did drive it in a few 90 degree days and didn't seem to have problems but did keep the windows down and not bother to use my air. That one day that had near overheat was only like 80 so thats why pretty sure it was from setting car too lean and messing too much with timing. I was running open loop full time so car wasn't correcting to 14.7 at part throttle and idle. I messed with the tuning and it was fine rest of season .But again don't use my air in town. Highway more airflow not much problem it seemed.