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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 12:53 PM
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Default LS1 or LQ4/9

I recently have a knock in my motor and I am not sure what route to take I can get a LQ4 for about 1000$ with 41000 miles on it, or I can try to fix my motor and build it up. I want to do a blower and push 8-11PSI my main goal is 550 RWHP as close to that as I can get I want to spend no more then 4k on the motor but that does not include the blower setup.


What do you recommend
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by nitr0racing21
I recently have a knock in my motor and I am not sure what route to take I can get a LQ4 for about 1000$ with 41000 miles on it, or I can try to fix my motor and build it up. I want to do a blower and push 8-11PSI my main goal is 550 RWHP as close to that as I can get I want to spend no more then 4k on the motor but that does not include the blower setup.


What do you recommend
LS Block LQ Block

800< LS1
800> LQ9/4

I was recently talked out of an LQ block, but its a broad topic...

Last edited by IT_SS; Sep 16, 2009 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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I would build your current motor...eagle rods...stock crank ...wiseco pistons and let it eat
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by IT_SS
LS Block LQ Block

800> LS1
800< LQ9/4

I was recently talked out of an LQ block, but its a broad topic...
I dont understand you > and < lol?? what made you get talked out of a LQ block
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nitr0racing21
I dont understand you > and < lol?? what made you get talked out of a LQ block
> less than
< greater than

and i'm not shooting for more than 700 RWHP, and thats just for a dyno pull to get my rocks off

edit : not to mention is cheaper to keep her...that stock ls1 block that is and address the weak points; rods & pistons etc
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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So I should upgrade the rods pistons and what else?
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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i was under the impression that and lq4 would take more boost then an ls1 in stock form, and even more with upgraded springs and rod bolts?
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by JAX04
i was under the impression that and lq4 would take more boost then an ls1 in stock form, and even more with upgraded springs and rod bolts?
with a forged 347 you can put out over 700rwhp. i would stick with that and put the rest of the moeny somewhere else
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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I'm learning about this stuff, but wouldn't it be better for him to go with more cubic inches, have the ingredients checked on the LQ-4 (make sure they're good), then build from that? 347 to a 364, less boost needed to meet his goals.

I had that same question a few months ago. My sig has most of the components that i'm using with my build. I'll post later on how it performs, but from what i've learned, getting the bigger motor is the route to go. Also, I found my LQ-4, with 13k on it, so its practically brand new. If you dig some more, you can find one with way less miles that that. Good luck and hope this helps!!!
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by trnsfmr99
I'm learning about this stuff, but wouldn't it be better for him to go with more cubic inches, have the ingredients checked on the LQ-4 (make sure they're good), then build from that? 347 to a 364, less boost needed to meet his goals.

I had that same question a few months ago. My sig has most of the components that i'm using with my build. I'll post later on how it performs, but from what i've learned, getting the bigger motor is the route to go. Also, I found my LQ-4, with 13k on it, so its practically brand new. If you dig some more, you can find one with way less miles that that. Good luck and hope this helps!!!
I was wondering the whole 346 vs 364 thing I am curious if someone has the answer
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 01:24 AM
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I'll have an answer for you soon....
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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by IT_SS
> less than
< greater than
You actually have them backwards if your identifying the symbols. Easy way to remember it is since we read from left to right, < you come accross the small pointy (less) end first, so its "less than"....and vice versa.

< - Less than
> - Greater than

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Old Sep 16, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
You actually have them backwards if your identifying the symbols. Easy way to remember it is since we read from left to right, < you come accross the small pointy (less) end first, so its "less than"....and vice versa.

< - Less than
> - Greater than

lol, thanx dude, i sucked in math

Nitro and trnsfmr99 - 346 vs 364 same stroke as the LS1 (3.622 in) with a larger bore. I beileve an LQ4/9 and LS2 can achieve 377 CI with the stock LS1 crank...i could be wrong, im not an expert
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:12 PM
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with the time and money that you would spend to forge either you should just buy a 370 and be done with it all together and run whatever boost you want. the price of parts and labor is about the same unless you're going to be doing the work yourself. I have the lq4 in mine right now and only pushing a 5psi maf tune until I upgrade everything to push it to 12 or 14 psi (ofcourse I am saving for a new block if this one goes, so people can know around about it's limits). I go this block for cheap with very very low miles.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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Maybe i can help on the 346-364 question say a 346 with rated at 305 hp equals .89 hp per cubic inch.A 364 with the with similar cam heads and cr would make near 324 hp. A forged 347 bottom end would safely hold near 2 hp per cubic inch, imo, and that would put u safe into the 700 hp range while a 364 would be safe to 730 +/- simply put, more cube = more power.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:40 PM
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so if we wereto buy an lq4 block, i'm assuming we can purchase the forgred internals for a ls1 block? like, would i still search for parts as if it was still a camaro/firebird, or is it supposed to be whatever car that has the lq4 motor form factory?
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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yea lq4 and lq9 parts are usually listed under ls1 family stuff just order the right parts depending on your rod length and get pistons for the correct bore size and your choice of stroke but they have the same rod/crank journal sizes
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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you would have to get the LQ4 parts as it it a different bore but seeing as though it's going into an f-body you would have to make sure the crank regulator sensor thing is the correct one but I have been told that the LQ's are just like the LS motors only made of iron not aluminum. <-- chime in someone that knows for a fact if this is true.
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by The Fugitive
you would have to get the LQ4 parts as it it a different bore but seeing as though it's going into an f-body you would have to make sure the crank regulator sensor thing is the correct one but I have been told that the LQ's are just like the LS motors only made of iron not aluminum. <-- chime in someone that knows for a fact if this is true.
if by crank regulator sensor thing you mean 24x reluctor, then yes every lq4/9 ever produced is 24x and will work with a fbody pcm
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Old Sep 17, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
if by crank regulator sensor thing you mean 24x reluctor, then yes every lq4/9 ever produced is 24x and will work with a fbody pcm
yes that sh*t I had a brain fart and couldn't remember the name of it, thanks btw
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