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budget turbo motor: LQ4/LQ9 or L92

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Old 09-22-2009, 10:48 PM
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Default budget turbo motor: LQ4/LQ9 or L92

hey, basically im trying to figure out what motor is the easiest to swap parts over from my broken ls1, i want to keep my cam and heads. i think i will buy new rods and pistons.... everything else, im just swapping straight over.

im wondering if i should look for an L92 (6.2L) or an LQ motor (6.0L). id prefer the bigger displacement, but i dont know if i have to run different heads and intake (which isnt in the budget right now)

and help is appreciated!

oh yeah this is for a street car, 76mm front turbo.

also, does your low compression motor lose some low end power? if so, id rather run a little higher compression with less boost. id be happy with a good 600rwhp
Old 09-22-2009, 11:30 PM
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lq4 hands down IMO. Just get the newest and lowest milage one you can afford
Old 09-22-2009, 11:41 PM
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Most people use the LQ4 for budget engine build and use the cylinder heads that come on them due to the larger combustion chambers to help lower compression. I just did a full build on a LQ4 that I got from a local salvage yard. I run a rear mount turbo. I swapped all the parts off of the stock LS1 to complete the LQ4 long block. A few months ago when I was looking the L92's were a lot harder to find and where way more money. I run a 9.5:1 comp ratio and don't feel that I lost anything from the stock LS1. I ran the car N\A for 500 miles while I broke it in. Hope this helps.
Old 09-22-2009, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TURBO6.0L
Most people use the LQ4 for budget engine build and use the cylinder heads that come on them due to the larger combustion chambers to help lower compression. I just did a full build on a LQ4 that I got from a local salvage yard. I run a rear mount turbo. I swapped all the parts off of the stock LS1 to complete the LQ4 long block. A few months ago when I was looking the L92's were a lot harder to find and where way more money. I run a 9.5:1 comp ratio and don't feel that I lost anything from the stock LS1. I ran the car N\A for 500 miles while I broke it in. Hope this helps.
ok well maybe ill just swap over my pushrods, springs, retainers etc. then.
the only thing im worried about is losing some low end with it being heavier and having low compression. my boost comes in around 3k rpms...
Old 09-23-2009, 01:19 AM
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You did say budget or I would tell you to buy an LS7. It is only about 150lbs heavier. I doubt you would even notice the weight or the lower compression. You may make up for some of that with the little extra displacement and having the LS6 style heads that come with the LQ4. I was also worried when I lowered the compression but felt my built LQ4 was way better. What are you going to use for a cam?
Old 09-23-2009, 02:11 AM
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i have a 224-224 116 that i like for now, i will get a 2 piece timing cover in case i ever want to swap it out...
Old 09-23-2009, 02:19 AM
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That is a great turbo cam. Sounds like it would be an easy swap for you with parts you have. Depending what broke on the LS1 and how many miles you might be able to get away with reusing the timing gears and chain maybe oil pump.
Old 09-23-2009, 03:46 AM
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What happened to your motor exactly and how many rpm's were you turning?

I'd do the lq4, throw in your cam, and call it good. It's a larger displacement engine, so I doubt you will be able to tell a difference with the low end power.
Old 09-23-2009, 06:39 AM
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I don't understand the compression problem. You said in the original post that you were thinking of doing rods and pistons right. .. Order the forged slugs to give you the compression you want with the cc head you already have.

and I agree, I plan to keep the ls1 block but if it takes a dump its iron lq4 all the way for me.
Old 09-23-2009, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Super Slow SS
I don't understand the compression problem. You said in the original post that you were thinking of doing rods and pistons right. .. Order the forged slugs to give you the compression you want with the cc head you already have.

and I agree, I plan to keep the ls1 block but if it takes a dump its iron lq4 all the way for me.
ive just heard that low compression engines can loose some power down low, and with my big turbo, thats not what i want.
Old 09-24-2009, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TURBO6.0L
You did say budget or I would tell you to buy an LS7. It is only about 150lbs heavier. I doubt you would even notice the weight or the lower compression. You may make up for some of that with the little extra displacement and having the LS6 style heads that come with the LQ4. I was also worried when I lowered the compression but felt my built LQ4 was way better. What are you going to use for a cam?
I think you are talking about the iron LSX not the aluminum LS7 which weighs in about the same as all the other aluminum motors.

No reason not to use an L92 if it's in the budget. You figure a new LQ4/LQ9 is going to cost $750 and weigh almost 100 lbs more than a new L92 at about $1100. You can't take 100 lbs off the nose for less than $2k. It's worth it if you can swing it IMO. I went iron block again because I found a decent core for $200. Otherwise I would have gone 6.2L all the way.
Old 09-24-2009, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by KILLER-LS1
ive just heard that low compression engines can loose some power down low, and with my big turbo, thats not what i want.
They only lose power down low off boost. A front mount 76mm turbo on a 408 should be instaspool. Don't worry about it. As 98Camarod stated, the additional grunt from the extra 50+ cubes will make more torque than you will lose from dropping a point of compression.

Do not reuse the LS1 timing chain. Buy a new stock LS2 timing chain set or get a Cloyes Hexadjust. Make sure you loctite the cam bolts.
Old 09-24-2009, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
They only lose power down low off boost. A front mount 76mm turbo on a 408 should be instaspool. Don't worry about it. As 98Camarod stated, the additional grunt from the extra 50+ cubes will make more torque than you will lose from dropping a point of compression.

Do not reuse the LS1 timing chain. Buy a new stock LS2 timing chain set or get a Cloyes Hexadjust. Make sure you loctite the cam bolts.
yeah actually just a few months ago i put in a new ls6 oil pump and ls7 timing chain, so those should be good to transfer over as well.
Old 09-24-2009, 09:46 PM
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Everything they said!!! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Good luck with your build.
Old 09-24-2009, 09:52 PM
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hey, on a side note, i think im going with the lq4, what years should i be looking at? i want the block that has everything the same i.e. knock sensors in the valley and cam sensor in the back
Old 09-24-2009, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by KILLER-LS1
hey, on a side note, i think im going with the lq4, what years should i be looking at? i want the block that has everything the same i.e. knock sensors in the valley and cam sensor in the back
'99 - '05 or '06ish. As long as the cam sensor is on the back of the block, it will work.
Old 09-24-2009, 11:39 PM
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1999 and 2000 blocks have cast iron cylinder heads and a built in offset on rear of the crank. I know the auto guys have to use some kind of special spacer to get it to work for a 4L60E trans. I would assume that a flywheel would have the same issue. I just did a 2002 LQ4 block and everything from my 2002 LS1 I needed swapped over.
Old 09-25-2009, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TURBO6.0L
1999 and 2000 blocks have cast iron cylinder heads and a built in offset on rear of the crank. I know the auto guys have to use some kind of special spacer to get it to work for a 4L60E trans. I would assume that a flywheel would have the same issue. I just did a 2002 LQ4 block and everything from my 2002 LS1 I needed swapped over.
so the 4l60e bolted right up then? just curious, i have heard different things about this
Old 09-25-2009, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 98Z28CobraKiller
I think you are talking about the iron LSX not the aluminum LS7 which weighs in about the same as all the other aluminum motors.

No reason not to use an L92 if it's in the budget. You figure a new LQ4/LQ9 is going to cost $750 and weigh almost 100 lbs more than a new L92 at about $1100. You can't take 100 lbs off the nose for less than $2k. It's worth it if you can swing it IMO. I went iron block again because I found a decent core for $200. Otherwise I would have gone 6.2L all the way.
sorry for the thread jack. but where are you finding l92s for 1100?
Old 09-25-2009, 06:35 PM
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I had a small clearance issue with the stupid TCI flex plate I got so I had to grind the heads of some of the rear main cover bolts down a little to clear the converter bolts and then it worked fine. The TCI unit is nice but a lot of folks have had fitment issues even on stock LS1's. I did put the stock LS1 flexplate on the LQ4 and it fit exactly the same as it did on the LS1. Measured everything with digital calipers and the LS1 and the LQ4 matched within a few thousands. Something with the way TCI welds the torq converter mounting point bosses must have been off. They were not much help when I called them either.


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