insanely low power, 427 TT
#21
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You are running hptuners..how did you log misfires..aren't you running speed density 2 or 3 bar? In speed density the misfire testing don't work? To get it to work had to put maf back on and unfail maf then could check misfire. You can also do powerbalance test with hptuners..version 2.22 version 2.23 beta don't work for me.
I had machine gun problems on my 99TT. It was burnt wires. Fixed the wires and car ran great.It was running on less than 8 for sure with the wires cooked up.
Plugs are important.Too cold and you will load up. Iridium can run colder heat ranges and not load up like non iridium. And you do need the gap down enough to not blow out the spark. .028 or so should be sufficient. You can up the dwell with hptuners also ,some guys have gone to the more powerful truck coils.
For sure you need to not lean out too much at higher boost levels. And timing can make a huge difference in power more I think then a half point or so of afr.
I would think your car should be easily putting out 700rwhp even at like 8 or 10psi.
What is the max airflow of your turbos?
And what about exhaust..cutouts? two restrictive exhaust can really hurt too.
I had machine gun problems on my 99TT. It was burnt wires. Fixed the wires and car ran great.It was running on less than 8 for sure with the wires cooked up.
Plugs are important.Too cold and you will load up. Iridium can run colder heat ranges and not load up like non iridium. And you do need the gap down enough to not blow out the spark. .028 or so should be sufficient. You can up the dwell with hptuners also ,some guys have gone to the more powerful truck coils.
For sure you need to not lean out too much at higher boost levels. And timing can make a huge difference in power more I think then a half point or so of afr.
I would think your car should be easily putting out 700rwhp even at like 8 or 10psi.
What is the max airflow of your turbos?
And what about exhaust..cutouts? two restrictive exhaust can really hurt too.
#22
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Is the motor a newly built motor? If so, the problem you are having sound's similar to my problem I had. Have you confirmed your timing with the motor and the ecu, by using a timing light on the motor , making sure that what timing you are commanding in the ecu is actually what the timing in the motor motor is.
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Is the motor a newly built motor? If so, the problem you are having sound's similar to my problem I had. Have you confirmed your timing with the motor and the ecu, by using a timing light on the motor , making sure that what timing you are commanding in the ecu is actually what the timing in the motor motor is.
#24
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So did I, and mine was 14deg. off retarded. 10deg. of it was my fault by the wrong value entered in the crank reference table, and after that the motor itself was 4deg. off. needless to say I was 100rwhp off on the dyno until I fixed the timing issue. Now she is a new animal!
#26
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If I recall correctly its around 226/230 117lsa. The cam selection is not the culprit here, I think there is a mechanical problem for it to be down this much power.
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stick here.
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#32
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Is everything grounded properly - including all the appropriate leads on your engine harness, the fuel pump, and especially the block?
Fuel - Best way is through a wideband - use two if you are unsure
Spark - Ensure your plugs are not fouled / properly gapped
- Ensure the computer is not pulling to much timing
- Ensure base timing is good
- Ensure your coils are getting the current required
- Ensure your dwell settings are correct
- Ensure no wires are burnt/damaged and resistance is good
- Ensure quality RPM signal through pull (coils are being told to fire)
Hope this helps to uncover your gremlin.
Spark - Ensure your plugs are not fouled / properly gapped
- Ensure the computer is not pulling to much timing
- Ensure base timing is good
- Ensure your coils are getting the current required
- Ensure your dwell settings are correct
- Ensure no wires are burnt/damaged and resistance is good
- Ensure quality RPM signal through pull (coils are being told to fire)
Hope this helps to uncover your gremlin.
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I will still however check for boost leaks, and well see what turns out.
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Guys, I mentioned in the initial post that the car was running with no air cleaners, I didnt mention however that the car was not running any inlet pipe on the turbo itself, so this is how the car looked like:
http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/c6...e_manifold.jpg
http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/c6...e_manifold.jpg
Is that part of my IAT problem right there, the fact that the turbo inlet surrounding was being heated up by the manifolds as well?
I took the previous pics from turbo technology's website.
http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/c6...e_manifold.jpg
http://www.turbotechnologyinc.com/c6...e_manifold.jpg
Is that part of my IAT problem right there, the fact that the turbo inlet surrounding was being heated up by the manifolds as well?
I took the previous pics from turbo technology's website.
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possible.
yet second option is too late to do. Now even with the suggested solution, there still is something definitely wrong which I want to figure out at least before I even think of bigger turbos. The next culprilt would be the 2.5inch downpipes on a 427
yet second option is too late to do. Now even with the suggested solution, there still is something definitely wrong which I want to figure out at least before I even think of bigger turbos. The next culprilt would be the 2.5inch downpipes on a 427
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#38
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i still cannot see where u listed the actual compressor wheel size???
i know there are t3/t4
at a guess u have 57mm comps, and stg3 turbine wheels...which u will probaly never get it any better..
find out what comp wheel size ......
#40
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Doubtful, but one locked up turbo would cause a problem and the other turbo would over spin to compensate. I would expect that to raise your IAT's. The bottom line is we can only provide ideas. You're eventually going to have to get in there and start testing everything. Just passing a visual inspection doesn't cut it. I had a boost leak from a bypass valve stuck slightly open. Make sure your turbos spin freely and there is no shaft play. Then make sure all of the fins are on the turbine and compressor wheels with no signs on engagement with the housings.