Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

I'm liking lower intake temps, and more power for only $100 more? Seems like a no brainer. Thanks for the help.

So I am going with a truck manifold setup, hopefully fitting a 4" downpipe all the way back, I might have to get a turbo K-member for that though. My next questions are

what wastegate? 50mm?
Bov? Size?
Plan on fitting largest OBX A2A FMIC, will that be ok?
What size injectors? I also need to upgrade fuel lines, what ones? Pump is good though.
Need to do some research on the oil feed/return, any help would be appreciated.
Also what computer/tuning do I need? I don't know much about the electronics of boosting a car with the A/F.

Thank you for everyones help! Much appreciated! Hopefully get this project completed over the winter!

DrTurbo

iTrader: (3)

WG 50mm is plenty and 52mm BOV or 60mm is also one we carry. Just let us know. Injectors.....are you planning to get a low imp. box?

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

Sorry but I don't know the differences or pros/cons of low imp? Also once I get the car boosted, do I have to do anything else besides get it tuned? Do I need any kind of engine management system etc? Thanks for the help.

bigturboz28

I read your post, but it is pretty hard to beat the price and performance on twin MPT70 or MPT76's. The MPT70's will do a 1000 with ease...

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

I would LOVE a twin setup! But I am hopefully getting a modular turbo single truck manifold kit. Two turbos, wastegates and extra piping wouldn't be cost effective.

Any incite on imp injectors and air/fuel management with boost?

z28boysteve

iTrader: (9)

www.acceleronics.com Jeff Stevens makes this piece and I run one in my car, with it you can run low impedance injectors, some good 95#/hrs with this little guy, and a 2 or 3 bar map sensor and pigtail, and you have everything you need to make the stock ECM run your setup through HP tuners. I always recommend low impedance because they are more finely controlled, and more precise at metering than their high Z counterparts, resulting in cleaner idles and better tunability.

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the informative post! I will look into all of that. I don't have HP tuners, but I will just take it to a local speed shop to have it dyno tuned, good enough right? I guess I'd just drive it to the shop with the intake pipe disconnected? So 95lb low imp injectors will work for 1000rwhp? Any difference for a 2 or 3 bar map? What gauges should I get, boost, A/F, fuel pressure?

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

ST80 T6 1.1 A/R
Make awesome power and spool so damn fast.

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

Ok I will definitely be running a 3 bar map. I am just confused on how it all works. I have a FAST 90 intake. Don't know how the whole VE table works and upgraded my computer to handle the 3 bar? Can anyone shed sone light on this?

z28boysteve

iTrader: (9)

Well you get ahold of your tuner, or you buy your own software and cable for HP tuners, then you have to buy the 3 bar add on which will change your tables so you can read up to 315 KPA or.. 3 bars roughly 29 PSI... only with a corresponding 3 bar MAP of course. After that its just regular tuning I guess. You can NOT drive an un-tuned car however. Just don't do it. Find a trailer to a shop and research that shop well before you decide to let them touch your car. I've had over 10 hours of tuning on my car alone and still haven't got it perfect yet. Need more dyno time.

02SSLE

iTrader: (26)

Why run an impedance box when you can run 93's with factory pcm? That is what I am running. No idle issues and injectors are 400.00 vrs 800 for impedance box and injectors. JMO

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

So if I'm going to get it professionally tuned, all I need is a 3 bar map sensor? But if I were to tune it myself, I'd need the 3 bar map along with a 3 bar add on along with tuning system? I will be getting it dyno tuned, so then I won't need the 3 bar add on? Just the map sensor correct? Also as far as driving the car, it's tuned NA right now, I was just going to drive it with the intake pipe disconnected so I'd have no boost.

I guess I could go with normal 93# but imp are a better spray, better driveability.

z28boysteve

iTrader: (9)

if you had 28# injectors and switch to 95 lb injectors instead of your car targetting a 14.7 : 1 AFR driving around it will be unknowingly targeting a 5:1.. it would foul plugs instantly, not possible to drive.

If you go get a dyno tune the addon is part of the tune but your still going to pay around $800 for a shop to do a decent tune on your FI car by the time your done. If you have the stuff to do it yourself you may find someone to do it cheaper, then you can tune it infinitely yourself for free afterwards.

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

So I only need the add on if I tune the car myself. I plan on getting software and fine tuning my car when I want to take it a step farther but for now I will have to pay a shop. I know nothing about tuning and don't want to take a chance blowing something up. I'm going to make a part list for everything I need and post it up, would love input on it. Thank you for your help, greatly appreciated.

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

Ok here's a little list I put together, if anyone could please critque it and answer my questions on certain items (mainly where to get what) that would be a huge help!

402 SS Turbo Build

Garrett GT91 turbo $1400
50mm wastegate $400 (specific kind?)
52mm BOV $200 (specific kind?)
Hot side truck kit T6 $800
OBX FMIC / coldside piping $500
Oil drain/feed $50 (specific kind?)
Low imp 95# injectors with box $700
3 bar map sensor $100 (which one?)
New fuel lines $250 (where to buy/size/type?)
Radiator brackets/pusher fans $150 (which ones?)
Gauges $200 (what kind?)
Dyno tune $600 (no need for bar add on)

roughly $5500. The only other thing I'd need is slicks and a cage (plus other safety equipment but isn't necessary right now). Might need a turbo k-member if a 4" DP doesn't fit, possibly a cutout for racing.

1fast bird

iTrader: (22)

For the k member just use the stock one with spohn solid mounts. I know that will fit a 4" downpipe and will cost much less than buying a new one. I sent you a pm

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

I'll have to check what mounts are on the car. I bought it with everything on it but a turbo. Checking PMs now.

venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

I love it when I'm right


Good luck man and keep us posted GT91 with 402ci will be sick

Red91vette

iTrader: (3)

Yeah venom, I didn't need to go any farther then my first reply, haha. Now time to sort out all the details and other questions/concerns I have. Waiting for modularturbo to get back in the states for my hot parts and I can hopefully start putting this thing together over the winter. It's going to cost a lot tho, unsure if it's worth it right now.

z28boysteve

iTrader: (9)

Dont forget header wrap, RTV, Electrical connectors, header bolts, oil, filter.. ALL sorts of random things to make it go, you will have 50 trips to your parts store before you know it and most likely at LEAST $500 in odd ends to do it all I can almost bet you. What about a fuel system you have nothing planned for that yet?

My fuel system is a sumped 98 tank with a giant weldon pump and regulator, two omega monster mesh filters and the associtated -12 & 10 lines and fittings... $2,000 or so alone in my fuel system. There is MUCH cheaper ways to do it but I wanted something I would never upgrade again.