crankcase evacuation?
#1
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crankcase evacuation?
has anyone used one of these on a turbo car instead of a catch can. i am thinking about getting one. any reason to use the catch can over one of these?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-25900/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-25900/
#3
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has anyone used one of these on a turbo car instead of a catch can. i am thinking about getting one. any reason to use the catch can over one of these?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-25900/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-25900/
Do you drill a hole in the exhaust pipe somewhere and install the metal tube so the exhaust flow creates suction as it flows by it and pulls air from the crankcase?
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#6
Launching!
Looks like something you could totally do yourself. A check valve would be needed along with some heater house.
It would be neat to hook up a vacuum gauge between the check valve and valve cover to see how they perform.
It would be neat to hook up a vacuum gauge between the check valve and valve cover to see how they perform.
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#9
Launching!
After doing some research I found that the Honda fans have dug into this idea and logged some data. Looks like the exhaust slashcut evacuation method works but it's very unforgiving and at times the system will see positive pressure when routed into the downpipe. I saw that some guys ran one to both the downpipe/open dump wastegates turn down(w/check valves). When routed to the open dump turn down they saw complete vacuum once the wastegate began to open. The problems associated with trying to plumb vacuum lines to the downpipe is pretty self explanatory.
IMO it's a neat idea. The fact that this method will at times see positive pressure makes it pretty much useless though. There's far better and more reliable ways to go about evacuating the crankcase. The same slash cut idea can be used on the intake pipes as well or you could just route a vacuum line pre-turbo and never have to worry about crankcase pressure.
#12
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You can also run a PCV valve in-line so it doesn't pull too much crankcase gases (oil mist) out fo the crankcase at high rpm during a run, which could effect the rotating assembly from getting that mist on it.
I think a hose should run to each valve cover port and pull crankcase gases from there, then down to each collector. Should be able to install that in 30 minutes.
I'm definitely doing this when my new engine goes in. Bye-Bye oil into the intake.
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#13
#15
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we used to use those back in the day, most guys went to vac pumps now
they used a ck valve from one of the emissions setups cars came with
there was thinking they didnt work well with mufflers, the rev. that goes on in the exhaust system-i had just as good luck running breathers in both valve covers
on my LS engine, i used one of those twist in breathers where the oil filler goes, have not seen any leaks from manifold pressure, but not running real high boost
some guys tried using vac pumps off old caddys or other cars that came with diesel engines (no vac.) they used them for the power brakes
you could ****** one off for $10-20 bucks, run a hose from the v/c to a catch can, then to the pump, cheap, sort of worked i guess
they used a ck valve from one of the emissions setups cars came with
there was thinking they didnt work well with mufflers, the rev. that goes on in the exhaust system-i had just as good luck running breathers in both valve covers
on my LS engine, i used one of those twist in breathers where the oil filler goes, have not seen any leaks from manifold pressure, but not running real high boost
some guys tried using vac pumps off old caddys or other cars that came with diesel engines (no vac.) they used them for the power brakes
you could ****** one off for $10-20 bucks, run a hose from the v/c to a catch can, then to the pump, cheap, sort of worked i guess
#17
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I have a pair of the pan vacs installed on my car and they work very well. The custom oil baffles on the valley cover had to be redesigned because they where pulling oil as a result of the amount of vacuum they produce at higher RPMs.
#18